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Boost-A-Pump (simple wiring question)

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Old May 30, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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Default Boost-A-Pump (simple wiring question)

I have my BAP installed and connected to my Racetronix harness/pump. I currently have it on a seperate toggle switch loose in the cockpit. I want the BAP to only activate with the nitrous. I'm trying to figure out exactly which two wires on the nitrous arming switch to run the BAP activation from. I have 3 wires on my arming switch (12v switched, ground, WOT). The two wires (red and black) coming from the BAP seem to complete a ground circuit when connected (neither seems to carry any voltage). I was going to hook this up to my relay so it kicks off with the solenoids as Racetronix suggested, but then I won't be able to tell that it working when I turn the key with the arming switch in the on position (I need that piece of mind with over 600rwhp).

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to grounds and switches.

Thanks in advance
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Old May 30, 2004 | 12:47 PM
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Is this the Kenne Bell BAP. You have a two wire harness that is supposed to go to a switch?

If so...the best way to hook it up would probably be to do it with a relay. Splice into one of you power wires and run that to the coil on thr relay..the other side of the coil will go to ground. The BAP wires will go on the other set of contacts. That way...the BAP is only active when you spray.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 01:10 PM
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I ran a MSD boost-a pump activated by boost from my supercharger,killed stock fuel pumps in about 6 mos.I killed 2 stock fuel pumps before I switched an inline pump.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 01:24 PM
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Yes...I wouldnt use the BAP on a stock pump. Good idea to get a Walbro...the Walbro type pumps hold up well with the extra voltage.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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Yes, this is the Kenne Bell BAP

I already have the Walbro intank pump and Racetronix harness, but that won't reliably support 600 rwhp in a Vette. I'm looking to only add the extra voltage to the pump when I'm spraying. I guess using another relay to complete the circuit is a viable option. Any other idea's?

Last edited by Reboot; May 30, 2004 at 03:37 PM.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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You can use a relay in another way if needed. Find a good 12 v souce and run that to the + coil on the relay....hook the realy ground wire to your MSD window switch yellow wire. The MSD will then provide the ground...closing the relay contacts at the desired rpm (when the nitrous comes on). This will complete the Kenne Bell circuit. Just be sure to wire the window switch power in with the arming switch or the BAP will activate whenever you go WOT even without the NOS sytem armed causing excessive rich condition on motor.
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Old May 31, 2004 | 05:49 PM
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I used a relay to activate the pump with my arming switch. Works like a charm....Thanks!
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Reboot
Yes, this is the Kenne Bell BAP

I already have the Walbro intank pump and Racetronix harness, but that won't reliably support 600 rwhp in a Vette. I'm looking to only add the extra voltage to the pump when I'm spraying. I guess using another relay to complete the circuit is a viable option. Any other idea's?
The Racetronix pump system would be enough with a FM FPR.

The BAP will help but it is not a pump issue but rather a regulator position
problem.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Racetronix

Soon Racetronix will have a FM FPR system for the LS1 cars with the returnless fuel system

From www.corvetteforum.com:

Today we started testing our new Racetronix PnP billet adjustable fuel pressure regulator and return line system on a 500RWHP twin-turbo Z06. The pressure is rock solid at 58PSI (where it was set) all the way up through the gears. The regulator will replace the factory rail-mounted pulsator and come with a -6 Teflon line and custom fittings that will plug into the GM push-lock return line at the back of the car. A factory-fit fuel filter will be supplied w/o the internal regulator / return line that simply plugs into the factory feed lines and mounts with the same type of bracket. The average person should be able to install this system in under one hour. If you wish to drop the driveshaft tunnel cover and exhaust to secure the return line along side the other factory lines (as we did) you can add an hour or two to the job. The hardest part is fishing the return line up from behind the motor which took us apx. 5 minutes thanks to the extra plumbing on this turbo project car.


This car is equipped with the Racetronix C5 PnP in-tank fuel system and upgrade harness. We are trying to have this system available for sale in the next 4-6 weeks...

The regulator is our own custom design.
The regulator will work on ALL LS1 motors w/o a return system from 97-04
We have not set a price yet.
The filter will look identical to the factor filter on a '97 C5 w/different inlet and outlet ports.
The systems will all include the regulator but the supportive hardware and plumbing will vary depending on the vehicle type. (i.e. truck, f-body, C5 w & w/o FMFPR etc.)
The regulator system will be sold separate from our fuel system.


This system will be available through Racetronix dealers who sponsor this forum such as Thunder Racing, More Performance etc.

Jack
Racetronix
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 08:40 AM
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That's awesome!
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 11:38 PM
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Racetronix...

I have the Walboro 340 intank, hotwire kit, voltblaster, and stock lines, regulator, rails, etc. with 30 lb SVO injectors. I m arunning a 382 with 150 shot going on (up to a 250 shot). Will the FM FPR work well in my situation, or do I need bigger pump/rails/lines???

thanks

SDB
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SDB
Racetronix...

I have the Walboro 340 intank, hotwire kit, voltblaster, and stock lines, regulator, rails, etc. with 30 lb SVO injectors. I m arunning a 382 with 150 shot going on (up to a 250 shot). Will the FM FPR work well in my situation, or do I need bigger pump/rails/lines???

thanks

SDB
The FM FMR will help as it will stabilize the FP under all load conditions. This will help keep your tune & A/F stable. It will also extend the HP support of the in-tank pump w/o the help from a VB or BAP. It will be the ultimate solution to many problems which plague the G.M. cars and trucks with a returnless fuel systems.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
The FM FMR will help as it will stabilize the FP under all load conditions. This will help keep your tune & A/F stable. It will also extend the HP support of the in-tank pump w/o the help from a VB or BAP. It will be the ultimate solution to many problems which plague the G.M. cars and trucks with a returnless fuel systems.
Sounds good! Will the stock regulator remain in the back, or is it removed from the vehicle? Is the FM FPR adjustable? Thanks

Should we just check the website for details on pricing and availabiliy?

SDB
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SDB
Sounds good! Will the stock regulator remain in the back, or is it removed from the vehicle? Is the FM FPR adjustable? Thanks

Should we just check the website for details on pricing and availabiliy?

SDB
The factory regulator must be removed. The Racetronix FM FPR is adjustable. It has a vacuum port if manifold referenced FP is desired.

Pricing and availability will be posted on our web page.
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