Takodabash

I agree that it is not the only way to plumb a fuel system, this is one way and I did plumb my stroked 6.0L this way, because it was easier to mount the regulator to the fuel rail.

Thanks

.boB

iTrader: (1)

The OP has a problem with fuel pressure, bleed down, etc. The regulator he's using is listed in the original post. In a later post, he describes how it's set up. Which is not how the people who make the regulator instruct you to do it. I generally believe it is better to read and follow the directions. Now always, but generally. If there's a problem with the regulator, maybe it's because it's not installed the way the manufacturer describes it.

stevieturbo

Until he draws a schematic of exactly how it is configured...I'd take any descriptions with a large pinch of salt.

Sometimes people explain poorly, they make mistakes or just get it plain wrong. Often descriptions of inlet/outlet on some regs are also pretty stupid as labelled by the manufacturers which also doesnt help.

Either way, there is no requirement for the regulator to have to go after the rails. But it does need to be configured correctly wherever it is installed.

boostedLSX

Ha, Ha. Wow, I really started something hear. To be honest its not that there is a problem. The car still runs fine and starts okay. I'm just used to the OEM systems that hold pressure when the key is off and the pump is not pumping. All I wanted to know is if someone had any experience with aftermarket high flowing regulators that do not bleed off pressure. The way the system is ran runs just fine. I still have boost reference pressures in the rails and there is no lean spikes or rich spikes because of it. The only reason why I change the fuel system up to a dead head type is because the first 5 years this car has ran its been setup the way the company said to run the system. fuel pump, then rails, then regulator, then return. the problem I had with that is the fuel would get hot and then over heat the fuel pump after about an hour of driving because this is also a street car. I would have to pull over for 30 minutes to let the pump cool then back at it. I've now change the system to a dead head type system and now I dont have the over heating issue because the fuel is not passing over the engine and returning to the tank. now it only goes to the regulator then back so the heat from the top of the engine is not transferred to the fuel and back to the pump. I'm just used to the factory fuel regulators that hold pressure even when the pump is off and the key is off. I've seen a lot of factory cars come into the shop with a long crank issue (10-15 seconds of cranking) because the fuel pressure was not holding and the fuel lines were loosing prime. No I have not had this issue yet and I don't think I am going to have the issue. I just wanted to know if anyone knew of a regulator that did hold pressure in case I did have a problem I knew a way to handle it. Thank You all for the interest!

JoeNova

Ugh. Read #6.

https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/tech-h...fi-regulators/

When you have a problem with a product, the manufacturer tends to know best. What you described happens with basically every Aeromotive EFI regulator out there.

stevieturbo

There is no way in hell cranking should take 10-15 seconds.

Do these people not realise as soon as the ecu sees the crank rotating the pump will run ? Nevermind the initial prime as soon as they turn the key on ?

ie, it would only take 1-2secs maximum for full pressure to be restored. If their engine isnt starting for 10-15s of cranking, it certainly isnt because the system does not hold pressure when off.