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Did you drop the tank or cut a trap door? I understand the trap door idea and yes, it would be easier and more convenient for any changes later on but it's so hard for me to even drill holes in my car let alone cut a trap door. Opinions? Pros and cons? Thanks
If you drop the tank its a pretty big pain in the ***, disconnect shocks, unbolt brake line off the rear end, remove exhaust, lift the back of the car up and let the rear end hang as far away as you can and then fight the tank out or there. If you do a nice job, the trap door is much easier. Then think about if you have a problem with your install, Been there. PITA!
Looking for the dimensions and spot to cut now, hopefully I get it right...ordered the pump/kit a hour ago and it's gonna be here tomorrow already! Wow!
Caution - follow the cutting pattern for the 1999 - 2002 since you have a 2000 model year. The 98 cutout is different than the 99-2002's.
Make sure to disconnect the battery.
Tip - get a set or at least these two of the set of quick connect tools to aid in removing the lines from the fuel tank module before you start the removal/install. You will need a 5/16 and a 3/8 inch. It's cheap so get the entire set. You will use the 5/16 and 3/8 to remove the feed and return lines.
Although there are many tools you can use to cut the trap door, I didn't want to use anything that would create sparks or cut the power source to the tank module. So I used a set of shears as shown in the link. I got mine at Harbor Freight.
I helped do one, we bought a aluminum gas door / utility door and installed it over the pump port.
Got the gas/utility door from a truck supply outfit, it was about 40 bucks if I recall.
It gave it a nice finished look.. and had a key so kept the thing closed and safe.
Unfortunately the outfit is long gone ... But at least you can surf and find something maybe..
Thanks for the help with this, gonna start on it in the morning and hopefully will have it out and ready when the new one get's here. Going to HF to get the shears....I was also a bit paranoid of sparks flying around back there.
One more thing, the tank has to be lowered a bit for the hotwire kit to be installed, correct? Thanks again
Caution - follow the cutting pattern for the 1999 - 2002 since you have a 2000 model year. The 98 cutout is different than the 99-2002's.
Make sure to disconnect the battery.
Tip - get a set or at least these two of the set of quick connect tools to aid in removing the lines from the fuel tank module before you start the removal/install. You will need a 5/16 and a 3/8 inch. It's cheap so get the entire set. You will use the 5/16 and 3/8 to remove the feed and return lines.
Although there are many tools you can use to cut the trap door, I didn't want to use anything that would create sparks or cut the power source to the tank module. So I used a set of shears as shown in the link. I got mine at Harbor Freight.
I installed my first Racetronix kit back in late 2004 or 2005 just after Racetronix came out with the kit for 98's. That was 13 years ago when not a lot of info at all where to cut and what was below where you were cutting ( a blind side).
So now with a pattern with dimensions makes it a lot safer to use mechanical tools to make the cuts especially since you have a 2000 model year if you can't find the shears. If you have an air compressor, there are some fairly inexpensive tools you can use as well to make the cuts.
It appears the 99-2002 models are a lot easier than the 98's because the quick connects are easy to reach and the wire harness disconnects right at the bulkhead connector.
Search YouTube for videos on changing the internals. Some are very good.
Note:
1) Make sure to change the bulkhead connector. It has been upgraded. So just because it looks the same don't cut corners and not switch it out.
2) Too late now, but I would change the fuel regulator. They can go bad after 18 years. Might as well change it since you are already there. In fact, I would wait a couple days if you can't find one locally.
3) There is a molded fixture inside the module to hold the pump in place. It might have deteriorated as well. You can get one at Lonnies (a sponsor on this site).
4) Look up the tip on this forum on how to install the nylon tube for the venturi. There is a source in Chg IL if you have to replace it. PM me for details.
5) You will need a heat gun to heat the fuel tube ends. A heat gun and a 3/8 inch bolt works well to enlarge the hole in the tube. Search this forum for details.
6) Advance Auto or Home Depot has the tool to compress the Oetiker clamps if those are supplied with the kit (one Jackson and some change). Don't even think that you can compress them with a pliers. They are metric and hard to source once damaged.
I just went ahead and cut the door with an angle grinder and I didn't blow up. lol Got the pump housing apart and now just waiting for Fed-Ex to get here and I can see what else I might need. The rubber sleeve that holds the pump is fine so that's a good thing. Was gonna get a new regulator but I guess I'm gonna hold off for now and maybe get a external c5 kit later on when I have more money. I hope it doesn't come with Oetiker clamps cause I hate them things with a passion.
I just went ahead and cut the door with an angle grinder and I didn't blow up. lol Got the pump housing apart and now just waiting for Fed-Ex to get here and I can see what else I might need. The rubber sleeve that holds the pump is fine so that's a good thing. Was gonna get a new regulator but I guess I'm gonna hold off for now and maybe get a external c5 kit later on when I have more money. I hope it doesn't come with Oetiker clamps cause I hate them things with a passion.
i personally woukdnt use worn drive hose clamps. I would use the crimp camps or the clamps with a screw and nut. And those pinch clamps, no way.
Got the kit and I’m installing it now but I’m glad there’s installation pics on here because it came with nothing besides some literature about the pump.
Oh, also didn’t get the upgraded ground cable that I ordered.
I think the WS6 Store has some installation pics on Facebook. Racetronix is a failure when it comes to including installation instruction with their products.
Their reply to me was that if I have to ask, then I probably shouldn't be doing it.
The only way to access their install instructions is thru their UID and PWD protected website. I have never been approved for no apparent reason, and have bought hundreds of dollars of Racetronix products. Finally gave up trying. I would send you what I have but don't think 98 instructions apply.
I think the WS6 Store has some installation pics on Facebook. Racetronix is a failure when it comes to including installation instruction with their products.
Their reply to me was that if I have to ask, then I probably shouldn't be doing it.
The only way to access their install instructions is thru their UID and PWD protected website. I have never been approved for no apparent reason, and have bought hundreds of dollars of Racetronix products. Finally gave up trying. I would send you what I have but don't think 98 instructions apply.
Thats f’d up for them to have that kind of an attitude towards customers! I actually got it installed and wired up. Finishing the trap door now. I did use the clamps they sent. How important is the upgraded ground wire? Debating whether to have them send one or just get a refund.
10-25-2018, 02:13 PM
Question for those that changed fuel pumps 
