When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My point was, it only took a second, IF THAT, to prime. A VERY short pause between ON and START.
I just thought of something. You need a normally closed(open when powered) solenoid valve in the return. Might work...
My point was, it only took a second, IF THAT, to prime. A VERY short pause between ON and START.
I just thought of something. You need a normally closed(open when powered) solenoid valve in the return. Might work...
Just thinking it will stop bleed down/syphon effect... fuel pump to regulator, reg to rails, return to reg then to tank.. Dead head system
Just a thought anyway
Last edited by Mickyinks; Jun 29, 2020 at 12:24 AM.
"I’m picky. If you turn the key forwrd and wait one second, it’s fine and primes up."
Maybe, just maybe, that's why the "prime cycle" is written into the ecm?
I don't think the "picky" description covers it............
Looks to me as tho you just like to hear yourself talk.
You need a normally closed(open when powered) solenoid valve in the return. Might work...
I believe this would offer the most likely solution.
My previous posts assumed a positive seal at the fpr which obviously does not exist.
In order to get an instant start every time you hit the key the system pressure would have to be maintained while shut down. Even stock cars do not do this. To minimize cranking you have to power up, wait for the system to pressurize, then crank.
"I’m picky. If you turn the key forwrd and wait one second, it’s fine and primes up."
Maybe, just maybe, that's why the "prime cycle" is written into the ecm?
I don't think the "picky" description covers it............
Looks to me as tho you just like to hear yourself talk.
ok. Cool. :thumbsup
edit. You know, I wasn’t gonna say anything else but the more I think about your low key jackassery, I decided I might as well say something.
1) if my wife or someone else gets in the car and cranks it normally (no one knows to let it prime because that’s not normal on any other car) and it turns over and over like that....they are gonna think it’s a piece of **** that don’t wanna start. I don’t like that. Am I entitled to not like something about my own car?
2) I created this thread because this is the first time I ever had to create a return system. I fabricated the fuel pump bucket from scratch and modded what I needed to, to get this to work. I wasn’t sure if this was supposed to be like this or not. My 3rd gen camaro has a return system and I don’t remember it ever being like this. It always fired right up without priming.
so I’m not sure how you think I just wanna hear myself talk. Game tech gave me a great idea and that’s what the forum is for, right? To learn, help and in your case be a jackass I guess. Lol.
I believe this would offer the most likely solution.
My previous posts assumed a positive seal at the fpr which obviously does not exist.
In order to get an instant start every time you hit the key the system pressure would have to be maintained while shut down. Even stock cars do not do this. To minimize cranking you have to power up, wait for the system to pressurize, then crank.
check this out. I noticed when I walk up to my 2019 Silverado, and I unlock it, the fuel pump primes.
i need to see if there’s a regulator with some sort of valve. Would only make sense.
Ok. I might have stumbled across a solution. I’ve been looking around for a solenoid valve and I came across a valve they use for diesels. So I did a search for what they were calling it. And I came across this:
its stainless steel, 8-10psi crack open pressure and it has a viton ball so it should seal well and keep fuel in the return side. Hmmmm. I think this looks a lot better than the jegs check valve I bought.
You might check with Julio at Alky Control. I pretty sure he sells a one way valve for his system. It's purpose is the keep fuel from siphoning into the charge pipes causing hydraulic lock. But any good vendor who sells alky systems would probably have the same or similar valve specific for gas or E85..
edit. You know, I wasn’t gonna say anything else but the more I think about your low key jackassery, I decided I might as well say something.
1) if my wife or someone else gets in the car and cranks it normally (no one knows to let it prime because that’s not normal on any other car) and it turns over and over like that....they are gonna think it’s a piece of **** that don’t wanna start. I don’t like that. Am I entitled to not like something about my own car?
2) I created this thread because this is the first time I ever had to create a return system. I fabricated the fuel pump bucket from scratch and modded what I needed to, to get this to work. I wasn’t sure if this was supposed to be like this or not. My 3rd gen camaro has a return system and I don’t remember it ever being like this. It always fired right up without priming.
so I’m not sure how you think I just wanna hear myself talk. Game tech gave me a great idea and that’s what the forum is for, right? To learn, help and in your case be a jackass I guess. Lol.
I recently built a car with a FPR and it bleeds off pressure pretty quick if you just key on prime it. It shoots right up to 58 where i set it then it drops to maybe 35 ish and starts to bleed. I always figured it was just because I've never done anything with a FPR before and this must be what they do. Car running fuel presure is perfect and rock solid. So i start reading this thread and I'm like oh my god thats my car and a great idea about the check valve possibility. But then one thing occurred to me, something apparently your car does that mine doesn't. I have no issues with it starting. Primed, not primed... jump in it after 4 days and hit the key boom car fires right up. I believe the reason for this is after the factory 2 second prime, once the PCM see's rpm from the starter it starts the fuel pump running constantly. So while my system bleeds it pretty quick, once the pump starts running there's no issue. Pressure goes right up and the car starts fine. I don't know this is just my take on it. Can you monitor your pressure while cranking to verify it's building quickly? Ever considered something is faulty on your system? While aeromotive might say it's plumbed correctly I'm sure they'd agree something sounds off.
I recently built a car with a FPR and it bleeds off pressure pretty quick if you just key on prime it. It shoots right up to 58 where i set it then it drops to maybe 35 ish and starts to bleed. I always figured it was just because I've never done anything with a FPR before and this must be what they do. Car running fuel presure is perfect and rock solid. So i start reading this thread and I'm like oh my god thats my car and a great idea about the check valve possibility. But then one thing occurred to me, something apparently your car does that mine doesn't. I have no issues with it starting. Primed, not primed... jump in it after 4 days and hit the key boom car fires right up. I believe the reason for this is after the factory 2 second prime, once the PCM see's rpm from the starter it starts the fuel pump running constantly. So while my system bleeds it pretty quick, once the pump starts running there's no issue. Pressure goes right up and the car starts fine. I don't know this is just my take on it. Can you monitor your pressure while cranking to verify it's building quickly? Ever considered something is faulty on your system? While aeromotive might say it's plumbed correctly I'm sure they'd agree something sounds off.
I was thinking something along this line as well. It almost sounds like an issue with the pump.
I fought this issue forever. I actually had two problems, the quick bleed down from the FPR and some clogged injectors. I fixed the injectors by getting them cleaned and flowed (two were barely 650cc of 1000cc). The quick bleed down and some of the hard start was caused by my FPR pintel being eroded on one side and smooth on the other. See pics. Magnafuel said it wasn't a big enough FPR for my 1000hp motor either. I've never pushed it that far yet (793whp), but ok, I need a new one anyway...
I'm not new to E85 or non stock fuel systems...I've been daily driving heavily modded SRT-4s with corn since around 2009. Those fuel systems are nowhere near this capacity, but they are designed essentially the same with the FPR right after the rail with pressure dropping slowly to zero after shut down, not dropping straight to zero in a couple seconds. Anyway, my srt-4 cranks right up even after sitting for a week or two.
it’s not immediate and if I forget to prime it, it’s embarrassing to have a nice car turning over and over an excessive amount of time to get it started. My preference, and I’m going to fix it. No matter what it takes.
Just tell everyone it's supposed to be like that and won't start until it builds enough oil pressure.
#racecarlife
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
