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98 steel fuel tank

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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 02:25 PM
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Default 98 steel fuel tank

Hello,
I am swapping an turbo LS into a Datsun 280z. The best choice I have found for a fuel tank is the Fbody tank. I have a 2000 plastic tank and it fits well, although it needs to be rotated 180*.
The lack of internal baffles is a big concern to me. I am planning to use the stock basket but won't retain the venturi valve at the bottom. This coupled with the fact that the tank will be rotated 180* means the fuel will slosh away from the pump under hard acceleration.

I believe the 98 steel tank has internal baffles(anyone have pictures?). Another plus is that I can weld it to modify if needed (inlet, etc)

I know the 99+ basket has a lock ring vs the basket bolting in on a stock 98 tank. What does it take to use a large Walbro pump like the Walbro 450? Do they bolt into the 98 fuel baskets similar to 99+?
I looked up new 98 tanks and it looks like new replacements have a lock ring?
https://ecat.spectrapremium.com/products/GM27114C

I also know that Hydramat may be a good solution.

Any comments or suggestions welcome.

Thanks

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Old Jan 30, 2021 | 04:09 PM
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Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by fusion_ta66
Anyone have any thoughts?
nm meh
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 08:32 PM
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I can’t remember very well but I’m pretty sure my metal tank had a lock ring and not bolted in. I switched to a plastic tank. The metal tanks does have baffling but unfortunately I can’t take any pictures now since I threw it out. I would think the baffling wouldn’t help much since it would stop the gas from going backwards in the tank. Since you want to turn it 180 it may not work but that why you want the pictures lol
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 11:24 PM
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This is a pic of a 98 metal tank. The fuel pump tank assembly is secured with bolts.

Beware of the yellow bulkhead connector on 1998 fuel pump assembly hat. The maximum amps of each pin on the connector is 14. Run larger pumps and the connector will fry or keep blowing relays or worse cause a fire. A 340 is about the max for one pump. If you run a pump that draws more than 14 amps you will have to drill a hole and wire the pumps directly. You will also need to upgrade the wire harness that runs from the pump(s) to the alternator to a minimum of 10 gauge high strand count wire.

You can run dual 510 lph pumps (two 255 pumps) but you have to change the intermediate cable and the yellow plug to a modular plug. The method allows you to use one pin for each pump. There are four pins on the connector. Two for the pumps. The remaining two pins are used for the fuel sender. They are NOT polar specific on the 98 sender. Obviously the sender will need to work with your dash gauge if it isn't a stock 98 gauge. Both grounds from each pump ground to a grounding post on the metal hat. See pic.




Have you thought about getting a sump kit for the tank and running an external pump?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...-body-how.html

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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 07:58 AM
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Thanks for the comments. Good to know about the wiring limitations. I would much rather run an in-tank pump to keep the noise at a minimum. I wish I could see the baffles inside the metal tank.
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