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One difference is aftermarket fuel rails don't have a fuel pressure damper like the OE rails. Just throwing this tidbit of info out on the table to facilitate discussion....
One difference is aftermarket fuel rails don't have a fuel pressure damper like the OE rails. Just throwing this tidbit of info out on the table to facilitate discussion....
I'm just curious of (logic, theory, proof) why a regulator physically connected directly to the rail, is better, worse, or same, as if both rails have a small length of hose prior to the regulator, basically making the "Y" in a slightly different location?
If there's a proven, better way, I'm all for it. Heck, I love doong every mod 2 or 3 times, 😆
Not really, but it happens often.. lol
Here's how mine is currently.
p.s. I have the FEEDS extended for ease of maintenence, since I have fat hands, lol. (Stole the idea from Maven)
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Mine has been on the front of my driver side rail, along with a crossover hose from the passenger side, for 2 years now.
What was the reasoning not to do it this way?
I planned on mounting the FPR on the rail but was told by the manufacture that putting it there can be hard on the fuel rail leading to a rupture of leak. Maybe they had an issue with this being on their rails IDK and I'm not throwing names.
Aeromotive shows feeding the fuel through the rear of the rails and mount the FPR somewhere in between at the front of the rails for a FI setup but I'm considering feeding the front instead with the FPR in between at the rear. Another way was feeding through the FPR to the driver side rail with a crossover with one passenger end capped off or what about through the FPR to a Y feeding the back of the rails with the fronts capped off?
I'm just curious of (logic, theory, proof) why a regulator physically connected directly to the rail, is better, worse, or same, as if both rails have a small length of hose prior to the regulator, basically making the "Y" in a slightly different location?
If there's a proven, better way, I'm all for it. Heck, I love doong every mod 2 or 3 times, 😆
Not really, but it happens often.. lol
Here's how mine is currently.
p.s. I have the FEEDS extended for ease of maintenence, since I have fat hands, lol. (Stole the idea from Maven)
.
I'm digging the setup! Do you think there would be a problem with reversing it but not connected to the rail?
No matter what, the FPR should be AFTER the rails (for a true return style setup).
So if you fed one side at rear of rail, then crossover at the front, and FPR somewhere at/near exit side of opposite rail, it should be fine.
Only possible issues, I can think of right away, are inaccessibility of FPR to adjust it, and a FPR mounted to firewall not being NHRA legal, if that matters.
If the regulator is before the rails, whether back at/near the tank (factory Corvette style), or just prior to rails, then it's technically a "Dead headed" fuel system.
I know on my car, even with a stock F body LS1 rail setup, converted to return style, (complete with FPR mounted to test port) and rail feeding a 250 shot, the fuel was there...
With the dead head setup the car had when I got it, a regulator back under the rear driver side seat area, and a rear mount turbo, I blew both head gaskets first time to track,, 😆
After fixing that with my screwed up back, I 100% want full fuel availability up at my rails, where its supposed to be...especially with ethanol.
I planned on mounting the FPR on the rail but was told by the manufacture that putting it there can be hard on the fuel rail leading to a rupture of leak.
I wish you would have just said that up front. I thought you were fishing for some kind of mysterious thing about pressure regulation.
They're giving you solid advice. FPR should be support mounted, and all fuel fittings should be strain relieved as much as possible.
Primary task of a fuel fitting is to make a seal. It also needs some structural capabilities but asking it to carry the weight of a heavy FPR is asking too much. Vibration causes parts to accumulate damage over time. Eventually the fittings could accumulate enough damage to leak and/or fracture. We all have custom cars and unique driving habits, so everybody's vibration profile will be different and results vary from car to car. Following good recommended practices will help your chances of success (and lower chance of failure).