I originally installed a Racetronix 255LPH fuel pump and hotwire harness in approximately 2008. Everything seemed to work fine except the fuel gauge was now inaccurate but I don't recall any problems related to fuel starvation. A couple of years ago I wanted to get it fixed and thought the only solution was buying everything in the tank new again, so I bought a WS6Store '98 complete fuel pump assembly, which included another 255LPH pump & Racetronix harness, but that didn't include the bucket. Ever since that shop installed it late last year, I smell fuel odor outside the car (not inside). Replaced the EVAP boxes and fuel cap, no change. There appears to be a dribble on the passenger side of the tank which could be a fuel drip. I recalibrated my fuel tables in the PCM and got the gauge quite accurate. But side effects remained... fuel pickup starved with 3-4 gallons remaining in the tank, fast righthand corners starve the pickup when half full, exiting a corner on an oval track briefly caused a stall (filled the tank 1/4mi away before arriving at the track). I notice that Ws6Store has '99+ kits that include the bucket, I sent them a PM but they've not been on in awhile.

I've bought a used plastic OEM tank with the lines and a fuel neck and new clamps. Upper fuel neck is in good shape, the bottom rubber section I'd like to replace but I don't know if this is the original rubber hose because it uses a standard hose clamp instead of the GM. Does it just take a straight fuel neck hose with the correct length and ID's, or should the hose be curved? Also having trouble locating the bracket that connects the metal fuel neck bracket to the chassis.

If I convert to the plastic tank, I guess I want to revisit all parts of the fuel system between the injectors and fuel pickup. What specific changes would you do to make this fuel system bullet proof? Minimizing fuel starvation under all conditions, max reliability, etc. My fuel hard lines are stock '98, and my fuel rail is a stock LS3 with aftermarket injectors. No other fuel mods at the front of the car besides the hotwire kit.

Thanks!

 

Bump. I've seen photos of AN fuel lines coming directly off the fuel sender cap, seen regulators in different locations, etc. Outside of the fuel pump itself, what would be your ideal complete parts solution to get fuel from the tank to the rail, with perfect reliability and minimal fuel starvation, while keeping an OEM (or larger capacity) tank?

 

I did the fuel tank swap when I had my entire car apart. Im pretty sure the little hose that comes off the tank to the filler neck is straight but it think it might be two different sizes. I can’t remember for sure since my hose I got with the tank was good. The brackets for the fuel filler neck is a hard find unless you go to the junk yard. I just made something myself just easier. I did an lime for the fuel feed off the top of the tank down to the fuel filter and kept the hard line up to the front. Then I went back to an to my ls2 fuel rail. I’m not sure how much power you are making or planning to make that will change the fuel system. I don’t plan on make anymore then 800 to the tires. I’m also still running a fuel regulator in the tank but I might put an external one on in the next year or two. Also you need to mess with your fuel gauge in hp tuners to get it to read right and to correct the needle location for fuel level.

 

My lower fill neck hose may be good, not sure, just looks tired. The used tank I bought came with a Quantum 340lph pump in it of unknown codition, don't want to assume I can trust it.

I'm familiar with correcting the fuel gauge needle with my current parts in HPTuners. I'm not looking for max HP per se... I'm interested in the best acceleration I can get between 3000RPM and 6500RPM, while trying to stay out of 5th gear on a road course (not drag strip). The best LS3 parts I can come up with seem to make that about 540-580rwhp, perhaps max of 650 bhp.Trying to minimize fuel pickup starvation as much as possible instead of being dependent upon carrying more fuel and more frequent fill-ups.

* So you have an AN (what size and length?) line connected to the fuel feed pipe on top of the tank sender, and that AN line connects to the fuel filter? Do I need adapters at either end of that AN line? If yes, what type of adapters do I search for?
* What AN line(s) and adapter(s) do I need to connect to the OEM fuel rail? If there's a benefit to changing to an aftermarket fuel rail (recommendation?), which AN lines/adapters would I then need? If yes, what type of adapters do I search for?
* The other two lines on top of the sender (fuel return pipe & evap pipe) cannot be, or have no benefit of being, replaced/upgraded?
* What are the pros/cons of placing the external regulator at various locations outside of the tank (at the front vs various locations further towards the rear, for example)?
* I presume the only electrical wiring for the fuel system running from the rear to the front is my Racetronix hotwire kit. That will continue to be adequate? Is it easy to swap/improve all other electrical components between the tank sender and where the hotwire kit ends at the rear?

Would this be the type of adapter to use at the top of the tank, fuel filter, and OEM fuel rail?

Good call on the hose, don't know if I'll find a new hose with these IDs. The tank inlet is 1.25", the upper filler neck side is 1", and the hose is straight 10 1/8" long.This part doesn't seem perfectly straight but otherwise seems to be a match.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/fnh002?pos=0

This part is a closer match:
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/199...k-filler-hose/

 

Talked with two shops & Holley. My takeaways:
* Keep complete OEM bucket to minimize starvation
* Keeping full bucket limits me to using a single pump, probably stay with Racetronix
* Possible regulator problems with a pump over 255LPH, which should be good for almost 600rwhp (more than I desire)
* No need to convert to AN lines for the above scenario
* May be able to use the correctly sized Hydramat if I can find a way to connect it to the fuel pump. Will take measurements and provide to my Holley contact.

 

More Hydramat notes after taking measurements and talking with Holley again.

Mating the hydramat to the Racetronix 255 / Walbro pump
Pump feed port
Height 5.4mm
OD 10.9mm
ID 7.5mm
Wall 1.5mm
Radius gap around port perimeter ~2.4mm

Getting the hydramat into the plastic tank
Tank opening 97mm

Max size of hydramat inside of '99-'02 Fbody tank
Inside bottom of tank when tank is level - ~24”x~13”
Centrally recessed section at bottom of tank ~8”Wx~6”L, angled deeper at rear, 1.5” deep max

The closest to stock solution would be to use the Holley 16-111 mat, which is 15"x3" and has the 11mm inlet directly on it. To use a bigger mat (that uses at least one 1/2" NPT port) has challenges and may not be practical. Below is a proposed solution from Holley. I'm pretty sure I got all the part numbers he mentioned.

From the pump to the mat:
* 5 pack of hose clamps Earls 750006ERL where necessary
* Walbro fuel pump with an 11mm inlet
* Holley 16-137 11mm to -6 Orb adapter [This fits directly over the bottom of the pump, which physically conflicts with the OEM bucket, which is desired to be kept for additional protection against starvation]
* Earl's AT985006ERL -6 AN MALE TO 9/16"-18 (AN6) O-RING PORT
* Earl's 750006ERL vapor guard hose
* Earl's AT981668ERL STRAIGHT MALE AN -6 TO 1/2" NPT
* Holley 16-106 11"x11" mat, with an 1/2" NPT inlet

 

Found a 370Z reseller that has some universal parts that may work. Wouldn't need all of them. I still don't know whether there will be adequate space between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the tank to fit in the extra fittings and hose. I'd want to add something on the outside of the tank to make a very strong magnetic field with the internal magnets. Don't want the inside moving and don't want to have the external magnets fall off due to bumps, etc.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/other/...t-p-10439.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-l...8-p-10326.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-9558.html

Directions with sample photos:
https://cdn.z1motorsports.com/upload...rvationKit.pdf

@tech@WS6store @Racetronix
1- Do either of you have solutions to mate the Walbro 11mm inlet to a 1/2" female NPT port on a Holley Hydramat?
2 - Can either of you provide a complete wiring solution from the top of the fuel sender all the way to the engine bay, and all I need to do is attach it? That way I can discard all the old components and not worry about anything being overlooked.

Adding article on C5 regulator install for ease of future reference.
WS6store 340FP drop in and C5 external FPR install - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

 

I believe I've collected everything I need to get the 99+ tank installed beginning Tuesday morning. I'm trusting what WS6Store is telling me and not trying to integrate the Hydramat. I noticed last week that my used plastic tank didn't include the fuel feed line that goes to the chassis, and anyone who is known to have one doesn't want to separate it from the tank, and I don't want to spend $200+ on a tank just to get the fuel line. My local LKQ has a '99+ V6 Camaro up on stands, but the rear hatch won't open, and I don't want to mess around under that chassis attempting to get that fuel line. I did take photos of the upper fuel neck bracket in case the shop can fabricate something to replace it. John @ WS6Store is making me a custom fuel line, but I've bought some Dorman parts and EVAP parts as spares in case they are needed.

Tank, PN 10422918 (used)
Fuel sender kit, WS6Store PN RPM340/RACETRONIX (new)
Regulator Kit, WS6Store PN RPMFFUP (new)
EVAP canister, PN 17113332 (new, if needed)
EVAP purge valve, PN 13575703 (new, if needed)
EVAP adapter harness, PN 19257603 (new, needed to connect older style harness to newer style valve)
Fuel tank cap, PN 19207873 (new, if needed)
Fill neck shroud, PN 10429538 (used, if needed)
Quarter panel sealing strip, PN 12399117 (NOS, if needed)
Upper metal fill pipe, PN 10409867 (used)
Lower rubber fill pipe, PN D125L10B07 (new)
Fill neck clamps, PN 10409871 (NOS)
Fuel sender line, WS6Store Custom (new)
Dorman Quick Connect fittings, PN 800-085 (new, alternative)
Dorman fuel line, PN 800-071 (new, alternative)

I've read posts discussing the fuel system weight delta between plastic & metal. The weight of the assembled empty plastic tank (fuel sender installed, with EVAP system (canister, valve & lines), with nylon fuel return line, without nylon fuel sender line) is 411oz (25.7lbs) on my luggage scale. I'll weigh the metal equivalent after removal, but it could be delayed depending on how long it takes to empty the tank. The full plastic tank should weigh 8lbs more using E10 vs the metal tank.

 

Yesterday was frustrating, today went smoother.

* Before install checked the fuel sender float arm, its range was 40-250ohm and there were no dead spots in the travel.
* We tried to follow the conversion steps provided by John at WS6Store yesterday, but my tech was overcomplicating the process
* We couldn't get the rubber c5 regulator/filter rubber mount to work with the new filter, mount ID seemed to be a little small, couldn't get holes to align. Re-used the old filter mount. It's a little wiggly at the moment.
* Primed it a few times before starting engine, no problems starting or idling.
* Pump priming noise seems to be a different frequency (converted from 255lph pump to 340lph pump)
* When starting engine, fuel pressure is briefly in the mid-50s, quickly climbs to the upper 80s, remains there for about 110s, then falls and remains in the mid 50s. John said not to worry about it.
* Didn't get around to adding the fuel neck bracket yet
* Prefer the 99+ neck shroud with the rubber surround to the 98 which was all plastic
* Did not do anything with the sealing strip
* GM original fill neck clamps were too small for both ends of the rubber fill pipe listed above, used normal hose clamps instead
* Didn't have a good way to move fuel 1/2-1 gal at a time from old tank to new tank (to build new gauge table in HPTuners), so they will empty the metal tank, let it dry, and then I will weigh the metal tank, then discard it because it has a slow leak somewhere.
* Initially added 3gal to the new empty tank, then after leaving shop added fuel in 1/2gal increments until full to map the voltage vs volume
* Stock 2002 M6 tune lists 16.6gal capacity but I've read that it accepts 16.8gal. Voltage stopped changing somewhere between 15.5-16gal.
* After filling the tank, driving a few miles, stopping for dinner, and restarting the engine to go home, I noticed a new sort-of howling sound coming from the rear of the vehicle

 

The tank weights are practically the same when adding in the 99+ removable filler neck, but the 99+ tank holds ~1.2g more fuel, which could add up ~8lbs to the rear.

'99-02 V8 plastic empty tank weight: ~25.8lbs (fuel sender installed, with EVAP system (canister, valve & lines), with nylon fuel return line, without nylon fuel sender line without filler neck components
'98 V8 metal empty tank weight: ~27lbs (includes non-removable metal filler neck)

 

How is the WS6 store 340lph fuel sender bucket working for you?
Have you experienced any more fuel starvation problems?

 

No starvation issues down to 2g remaining with slightly aggressive accel, decel & turning. Only problem remaining is to hopefully find a drop-in c5 fpr unit which always gives the correct pressure range. Else I'm forced to convert to an aftermarket fpr design, custom tubing, etc.

If you don't want to be in the same boat and 255lph is adequate for your foreseeable needs, then I'd ask about swapping the 340 pump for the 255 in that kit. My 98 in-tank fpr had no problem with the 255 pump, presumably the external c5 fpr wouldn't either.

I have a small inconvenience with fueling stopping prematurely. We made a custom bracket for the metal portion of the fill neck and perhaps it's not providing the ideal neck angle. The oem bracket is welded on and I couldn't find a nice unit to use.