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I recently bought a 2001 Trans Am with only 43k miles. The previous owner told me he had replaced the fuel pump at one point in time. A few months later and the fuel pump in it won't provide enough pressure to even start now. Maybe he bought a cheap one to get by.
So I bought the drop in racetronix 255 lph kit from WS6store with the hotwire kit. Go to install it tonight and now I'm confused because it looks like it's not drop in/plug n play as I was hoping. Of course there's no directions so maybe someone can enlighten me.
Here's what I received in my order:
The hotwire kit is part number FPWH-017. The sticker on it says I need RCS-028 and the ITWH (which is already installed as I received it).
What am I missing on this? I know the RCS part should fill in the hole on top of the new assembly, but maybe I can/or I'm supposed to use the old one since the racetronix pump is already installed? Is the regulator missing or is that a new style?
Any help at all is appreciated. I've done this job before probably 15 years ago on a 94 Z28 with the factory setup, but I'm currently lost with this setup and don't want to open the tank and let it sit open. Would rather do it all at once.
The fuel pump module you have does not appear to include a pressure regulator (as you already pointed out). That's more typical of a 340 L/hr pump where it is expected you would re-plumb your fuel system with an external regulator. I would talk to WS6store on Monday and determine what you have vs. what you really wanted.
The Hotwire harness is correct. All Racetronix Hotwire harnesses now come with larger current ratings (25A) than in years past, hence the different "GT 280" type connector at the fuel pump bulkhead. It matches the style of connector on the aftermarket pump module you got from WS6store.
The old square "Metri-Pack 150" type connector with a stock fuel tank was rated for only 14A. You're better off with this 25A upgrade. If you put in an adapter pigtail to go back to stock style connector then it will knock down the current rating to 14A again.
The fuel pump module you have does not appear to include a pressure regulator (as you already pointed out). That's more typical of a 340 L/hr pump where it is expected you would re-plumb your fuel system with an external regulator. I would talk to WS6store on Monday and determine what you have vs. what you really wanted.
The Hotwire harness is correct. All Racetronix Hotwire harnesses now come with larger current ratings (25A) than in years past, hence the different "GT 280" type connector at the fuel pump bulkhead. It matches the style of connector on the aftermarket pump module you got from WS6store. The old "Metri-Pack 150" square looking connector with a stock fuel tank was rated for only 14A. You're better off with this 25A upgrade. If you put in an adapter pigtail to go back to stock style connector then it will knock down the current rating to 14A again.
After a few more hours of research I see what you're saying with the plugs.
I didn't take a picture of the back side of the assembly at the time, but it does say 255lph on it.
I'm eager to get it back in operation so I might just switch over the old regulator for the time being until I can reach out to WS6store and see what I've got going on. I'll throw a fuel pressure gauge on and see what I've got with the old regulator and make sure it's not too much.
Just a word of advice, if WS6store tells you to use an external C5 Corvette fuel filter/regulator.... DON'T DO IT!!!
Those things have gone to crap, they rarely work any more out of the box.
There is no reason to not use a stock in-tank regulator with a 255 L/hr pump, unless you go all out and lay a whole new full-flow fuel system with regulator at the engine fuel rail. Anything in between is just a waste of time and money.
Just a word of advice, if WS6store tells you to use an external C5 Corvette fuel filter/regulator.... DON'T DO IT!!!
Those things have gone to crap, they rarely work any more out of the box.
There is no reason to not use a stock in-tank regulator with a 255 L/hr pump, unless you go all out and lay a whole new full-flow fuel system with regulator at the engine fuel rail. Anything in between is just a waste of time and money.
I wasn't planning on the external regulator. Part of the reason I bought the 255 kit was the regulator built in (as is shown in the pictures and on the description on the website). I'm disappointed that it wasn't included, but if I've suddenly got a larger pump than I expected I guess I'll adapt to something different and I'd rather have an external regulator with a gauge I can see.
Went ahead and tried to install the hotwire kit today. Slow process because I was trying to do it right the first time. Fished it through the tank area, grounded the wire at the brake bolt like I've seen racetronix suggest on other threads, fished it all the way up, zip tied it along the way.
Went to hook up to the alternator and the damn post on the back spins the whole damn thing. Wrestled it for over an hour and finally got the top nut off. Bolted the hotwire kit red wire to it, now no power to the hotwire kit.
Checked the fuse on the hotwire kit and it's good. Checked the power going to the relay and there's 12 volts with key on, no ignition, but nothing beyond that.
This is getting to beyond frustrating now. Anybody have any suggestions? I'm smart enough to use an electrical meter to test things. I eliminated the post on the alternator by bypassing it with just channel locks. Seems like the issue is the racetronix relay.
Last edited by Craddock87; Aug 27, 2023 at 06:22 PM.
Went ahead and tried to install the hotwire kit today. Slow process because I was trying to do it right the first time. Fished it through the tank area, grounded the wire at the brake bolt like I've seen racetronix suggest on other threads, fished it all the way up, zip tied it along the way.
Went to hook up to the alternator and the damn post on the back spins the whole damn thing. Wrestled it for over an hour and finally got the top nut off. Bolted the hotwire kit red wire to it, now no power to the hotwire kit.
Checked the fuse on the hotwire kit and it's good. Checked the power going to the relay and there's 12 volts with key on, no ignition, but nothing beyond that.
This is getting to beyond frustrating now. Anybody have any suggestions? I'm smart enough to use an electrical meter to test things. I eliminated the post on the alternator by bypassing it with just channel locks. Seems like the issue is the racetronix relay.
I'd watch out with the racetronix wiring it's definitely not everything they claim it is. I bought their double pump harness for my 3rd gen z28 hooked everything up exactly as it should have been and couldn't for the life of me get power to those pumps. I spent a few days with the meter checking for power to no avail. The only way I got those pumps to fire was to jump the pins on their relays.
After reaching out to them on their own forum with install pictures and multimeter pictures to try and get it running they banned me from their forum because I found a fault with their own stuff.
In the end I pulled their harness out of the car and cut up all the wiring and used it to wire the pumps up myself. Haven't had a problem since and the car runs strong. Good luck and have fun
Finally got it all sorted out (hopefully). After a few discussions on the phone with Ed from WS6store (awesome support) here's the rundown Incase someone else ends up with the same problem/situation as me.
First - the regulator is in the bucket instead of the top now and you transfer the pressure sensor over. That's not shown on the picture on the website, so maybe it helps someone else.
Second - since my pump was previously replaced, the previous owner had already changed it to a flat plug instead of the factory style square plug. Since the racetronics one comes as plug and play for the factory style, I had to rewire a square plug into the factory wiring so it could plug into the racetronics hotwire kit.
So if you're factory, it would have probably been a plug and play on that end. Still a pain in the *** to run it, but hopefully it'll run good.
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Racetronix drop in 255lph question 
If you put in an adapter pigtail to go back to stock style connector then it will knock down the current rating to 14A again. 
