deka ev6 80 idle issue
deka ev6 80 idle issue any idea what i need to adjust. i used info from from ls1tech hoping i get a starting base but it want hold idle. I am aware of the 02 sensors being bad,but open loop loop shouldn’t matter.
Last edited by 2000Phoenix; Nov 3, 2023 at 11:33 PM.
It is impossible to tell what all problems your tune has without looking at it, but that log makes it obvious there are enough of them for me to advise starting over from a stock tune. Put in all the correct data for those injectors and modify from there as needed.
deka 80s idle issues I thought I uploaded it. Here it is. I got her to idle but it is staying rich after warming up. I thinking to look at my FPR to make sure it is at 58psi constantly as changing the ve table keeps it rich no matter what. Please let me know your thoughts and I appreciate it in advance for taking the time to look.
Last edited by 2000Phoenix; Nov 4, 2023 at 09:10 PM. Reason: adding attachment
I thought I uploaded it. Here it is. I got her to idle but it is staying rich after warming up. I thinking to look at my FPR to make sure it is at 58psi constantly as changing the ve table keeps it rich no matter what. Please let me know your thoughts and I appreciate it in advance for taking the time to look.
Once I saw that your injector flow rate settings, injector offset vs volts settings, and VE table are totally fucked, along with your MAF table being zeroed but without properly failing the MAF, I quit looking. That attempt at a tune is totally hopeless. I stand by what I said about starting over from stock. The fact that it runs at all right now is equivalent to the old saying about random monkeys eventually typing the works of Shakespeare.
Weird we used this on another deka 80 upgrade and it worked fine. Also the maf showed failed in the scanner which is what I wanted to confirm if something else was off. I scaled down the ifr but now suspect it may be something else as the ve stays rich. VE is fucked as you said and I know this that’s why I was hoping for a guess to get me in the right direction as another car we did runs fine I speed density or close loop using the data. I will check some other things to see if I can ping down the issue with this one thanks.
Last edited by 2000Phoenix; Nov 5, 2023 at 11:05 AM.
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No, you did not use any of these values on another upgrade that worked fine. You have 750 LBS/HR in the injector flow rate. If you had 750CC/MIN, it might run, although it would not be right. The 4.7ms dead time you have set for the entirely wrong offset vs volts vs map table is the only reason the motor is running at all. Your entire last log shows 5.4ms injector time because that is the floor of what your minimum settings are allowing. Once you put in real numbers it will probably idle at or under 2ms. There is not enough number fudging in the world to make any of the airflow tables work properly with those fuel settings. The other multiple issues can only be sorted out once something on the same planet as correct injector data is put in.
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Verdad Gallardo Talk to friend with these who is running 6psi of boost and his numbers are down scaled down from that excel data a lot. Some other things look different since he is running boost and has a lot more work done to his. The scaling down seem to help idle but still rich. Getting her in the air to check fpr and go through the data.
Last edited by 2000Phoenix; Nov 5, 2023 at 12:01 PM.
You are missing the huge elephant in the room. You can select whether you use imperial or metric settings in HPtuners. You have 80lb injectors set as 750lb injectors. You may have thought you were putting in 750CC, which would be MUCH closer to a real number. Your friend may very well have his set on metric, which would cause a huge difference.
I changed the settings to metric but don't know if keeping it is g/s matters. Checking fuel pressure now on the FPR I don't think its at 58psi. Also do you know the formula to scale the deka 80s for 58psi? Not asking for the answer just want to make sure I have the right formula to use for the IFR and offset.
If you just change the settings to metric without changing the number in the table first, it will just have some enormous number that is the metric equivalent of 750lb in the table. You can use any of the commonly available fuel pressure injector scaling calculators to get "close enough" on your IFR, but there is no formula to scale injector offset. That is the hardest to come by and most important data to have, and it only comes from actual lab testing. This is why expensive companies like Injector Dynamics can still sell product at prices so much higher than the cost of brand (whatever) injectors that have the same wide open flow rates. They have the correct data to actually be able to tune things like idle and transient response, and they make it available in a format compatible with the factory computers. Even a GM gen3 and GM gen 4 computer will show slightly different tables, and a Ford computer has some that are almost backwards to GM.
I did change the numbers and scaled all of the ifr, off set, by 50% I will adjust the VE and other areas after I get it to idle better. FPR is holding fine. Now I have a issue of no cranking. I know there is the cranking VE but I have never had to mess with that when I tuned my stock injectors and have not heard of people messing with it so I think the fuel killed the plugs as it want turn over all of a sudden after switching to metric and scaling everything down. Even tried to put my original injector info in it and it would not start so I will have to check to plugs for being wet and giving spark but I am hoping scaling those areas down will help. It was easy to tune the stock injectors as I did not have to mess with much on the fuel side but I get how the correct data i needed for injector upgrade especially.
Once you put in real IFR numbers, your offset numbers are so screwed up that they may keep the engine from running. Take a look at a stock file offset table and look at the difference. It absolutely cannot be 1 number populating that entire table, and the 1 number you do have is probably way off for any voltage that your engine would actually crank at, much less run at. I will repeat again that you will be far better off trashing this whole tune file and starting over from stock. Every change you have made since putting in bad injector data will certainly be wrong.
Going to look to get the correct data. I know that’s a issue here of people helping out and wanting to do yourself which is cool I will figure it out and get the right data.