I’ve searched ls1tech and google, haven’t found anything.

I have a racetronix pump that I need to install and the instructions start with removing the old pump assem. What steps are taken to remove the tank? I have an 02 BTW.

 

E-Mail support@racetronix.com and we will send you a manual in Acrobat / PDF format. Please do not use a Hotmail or Yahoo (free service) account if possible.
Use your primary ISP e-mail address if possible.

 

I have the manual... The one I was sent starts with removing the oem pump. I just wanted some info on tank removal and so on.

 

We refer installers to the GM shop manual which covers de-pressurizing the fuel system, tank removal, module removal and safety issues.

 

Can you send me the instructions for the wiring harness for the 99 and up kit?

Is there a reason you dont have links to download the pdf files from your site if you dont include them with the product?

 

A printed color manual is currently included for the F99+ fuel pump installation. Only the first shipment of systems Aug 31/04 did not have them.

Please take the time to look at the wiring on the car before you start the installation.
The connectors on the Racetronix harness are unique to the sending unit only. Everything plugs in and ALL the power terminals are labeled.
Mount the relay and spiked chassis ground lug in front of the DS rear tire using the factory bolt as shown in here:
<http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX.../Dcp_1169a.jpg>
Make sure you clean the surface and the bolt with a wire brush to expose clean metal and apply a generous amount of silicone grease supplied to prevent corrosion. Plug the harness into the chassis and the fuel module into the Racetronix harness. Insert the connector locks (F98=red, F99+=blue).
Route the harness along with the fuel lines under the car. Secure the harness every 12" with the supplied wire ties.
The harness power source may be hooked to the alternator's + output (best) or the + battery terminal.
(If you chose to use the battery as a power source run the harness over the top of the transmission housing and up the PS inner front fender well)
Route the harness such that it does not rub on any sharp surfaces or come to close to any hot exhaust pipes.
Mount the fuse holder with the supplied self tapping SS screw in a location where access is possible if required.
Hook the harness + power to the alternator output stud OR the battery + terminal using the supplied brass battery.
The factory battery nuts are removed by pressing them out from behind the terminal boots.
<http://www.racetronix.com/images/C4/..._Hookup-01.jpg>
Install the body ground upgrade cable. One end hooks up to battery - and the other end to chassis ground.
The screw on top of the battery nut is considered the accessory tap. These are installed after the nuts are secured to the battery.
The extra connector set included with the system is to interface a pump booster if required.
The mating connector on the harness is located just after the relay.

 

jermstyle

Rather than dropping the tank you might want to consider the other solution used here. See link. Nic's site has a ton of mods with pictures of the fuel hole he cut from inside the car.

http://www.public.asu.edu/~nicolasd/

or

http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html

A Chevrolet dealership socked me for $1300 to replace the stock pump (because of the amount of labor to drop the tank from the rear). Had I know then what I know now, I could have replaced the pump with a much better pump from Racetronix for less than $300.

My car is a keeper, so I'm going to cut a hole from inside the car and install the pump, so it's not a concern for me to cut a hole as long I know the patch is completely sealed and no exhaust gases are allowed to enter the car. I'm installing a TNT kit so I need a bigger pump.

For obvious reasons (carbon monoxide) you will want to make sure the patch is completely sealed if you decide to use this solution. I don't know what the legal ramifications are if you sell the car with the hole cut in the trunk area.

This tool works very well for cutting the hole.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...itemnumber=539

HTH

 

so let me get this straight, you spend $30k on the car prob about $10k+ in mods and then take the i'm lazy and stupid method and cut a big hole in the floor of your $40k+ car instead of taking an extra 2 hours and doing it right.
and before you ask yes i have done it twice. once to change to my walbro pump, the second to install my roll cage. its not that hard, take the time to do it.

 

Numerous people contact us with failed pumps due to contamination.
Most of these people do not remove and flush the tank before installing a new pump because they use the trap door method. The pump goes in with a snow white flex tube and filter sock and a week later they are pulling the pump out with a brown flex tube and filter sock!!!

 

I dropped my tank… There is no way I would cut a hole in the floor of my car.

My car has 6k miles on it so my tank was clean still… Nothing to flush out really.

 

 

Chances are a plastic tank with only 6000 miles would be clean.
One point though. Rust or contamination can not be seen by peering down into the opening of the tank. Rust will settle at the bottom of the tank and some will be suspended floating around in the gas. The amount is small enough that unless you had the gas in a glass with sunlight shining through it you still might not be able to detect the subtle tinting. It is the constant circulatory flow of mass volumes of gas along with the suspended rust particles (and others) which over a period of time will accumulate in the filter sock and eventually make their way into the pump. If you pull a failed pump and find the filter sock and the flex tube to be brown it is pretty safe to say the pump is full of rust. The rust sticks to the magnets in the motor and damages the internal components. There is no way to fix this as a Walbro pump can not be taken apart and put back together again.

 

The original sock and tube were only slightly brown (tan). I dipped some fuel out and it was crystal clean…

If a Racetronix pump fails, is there a warranty?

 

As of March 2004 Walbro has terminated their warranty program.
Walbro states that 98% of all pumps returned for warranty proved not to be defective. Of the 2% that were most had failed due to contamination or being run dry. If a customer feels that there is no good reason that their pump should have failed (and few do) then Racetronix has the option of submitting the pump for Walbro's inspection. If Walbro deems the pump to have failed due to manufacturing defects then they will replace the pump.

Racetronix Walbro pump failure rate is less than 1 in 200 pumps. Perhaps our % is better than most because we include the proper filter socks with our systems and they are application specific. Of the pumps that Racetronix has taken back most have failed due to rust contamination or being run dry one too many times. It is quite evident when we cut the pump open and find the motor brushes and armature scored and discolored, the magnets full of rust or the gears full of pit marks and scratches.

Customers should always flush their tanks. A good way to inspect the gas is to place a clean white cloth over a 5 gallon paint bucket, stir the gas up in the tank and start to pour the gas out over the rag as it drains into the bucket. This will provide a good idea of what is in the tank.

 

Whats the difference with the 98 cars. I got to change my fuel level sending unit so, I figured I would put a pump in there while I had it apart. Any detailed instuctions anywhere?

 

Review our ads and you will see the difference between the '98 metal tank cars and the 99+ plastic tank cars. The systems come with details manuals on the pump installations. Links to the product can be found in our sig below.

 

Hi,
a couple of pages for you to view. Wishing you the best with the project.
Always use proper safety when working on vehicle and no sparks/flames near fuel......no pun intended!!!!!!!!!!have a blessed day.........captain jim
PS: PHOTOS /INFORMATION/COURTESY CHILTON

 

you replied to a 7 year old post dude. pay attention. gz

 

It is just as relevant today.
That article in GM High-Tech is an excellent guide.

 

yeah i second the just as relevant thing. can't find how to disconnect everything so the tank will drop