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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 06:51 AM
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Default Racetronix ? from Customer

Thanks again for the help other day on the BAP set-up with your 99'-up PNP.

Now that I have got all that done....what's the best way to test the system to make sure everythiing is done correctly, wiring, grounds, etc. I'm pretty sure but wanted to know if there is a way without firing up the car yet. How do I know the BAP is working properly?....will the pump fire up without the BAP?

Secondly I have lots of new braided hoses/fittings...after I clean and install them I thought I would leave the front of the rails disconnected into a bucket or something and turn the key over to purge the hoses into something other than washing any debris back into the something that could clog injectors later.

Comments would be appreciated.
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Old Oct 5, 2004 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BlwnTA
Thanks again for the help other day on the BAP set-up with your 99'-up PNP.

Now that I have got all that done....what's the best way to test the system to make sure everythiing is done correctly, wiring, grounds, etc. I'm pretty sure but wanted to know if there is a way without firing up the car yet. How do I know the BAP is working properly?....will the pump fire up without the BAP?

Secondly I have lots of new braided hoses/fittings...after I clean and install them I thought I would leave the front of the rails disconnected into a bucket or something and turn the key over to purge the hoses into something other than washing any debris back into the something that could clog injectors later.

Comments would be appreciated.
Solvent should have been run through the lines and high pressure compressed air to blast out the contaminants. The fuel system itself would take quite a while to purge any contamination which might end up inside an injector screen (bad news). Make sure you have 10 gallons of fuel in the tank and let it sit for 15-20 minutes before running the pump the first time. This will allow the fuel levels in the tank, bucket and pump to equalize.
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
Solvent should have been run through the lines and high pressure compressed air to blast out the contaminants. The fuel system itself would take quite a while to purge any contamination which might end up inside an injector screen (bad news). Make sure you have 10 gallons of fuel in the tank and let it sit for 15-20 minutes before running the pump the first time. This will allow the fuel levels in the tank, bucket and pump to equalize.

Got the lines cleaned....more importantly...is there a way to test the electrical system on your set-up? How about the BAP working? Can you tell when the BAP is working or do you have to trust it is and see a successful 650+ rwhp tune?
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BlwnTA
Got the lines cleaned....more importantly...is there a way to test the electrical system on your set-up? How about the BAP working? Can you tell when the BAP is working or do you have to trust it is and see a successful 650+ rwhp tune?
If the pump is running then everything is working properly wiring wise.

Which BAP do you have? KB or MSD?
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
If the pump is running then everything is working properly wiring wise.

Which BAP do you have? KB or MSD?

Thanks, I have the MSD
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 10:17 AM
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What is a BAP?
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BlwnTA
Thanks, I have the MSD
You can adjust the voltage and you should see a slight pressure change and hear the pitch of the pump speed up. (assuming you exhaust is not too loud).

BAP is 'Boost-A-Pump' sold by Kenne Bell. Generally a slang term for pump booster. MSD makes a manifold pressure referenced one as well.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
You can adjust the voltage and you should see a slight pressure change and hear the pitch of the pump speed up. (assuming you exhaust is not too loud).

BAP is 'Boost-A-Pump' sold by Kenne Bell. Generally a slang term for pump booster. MSD makes a manifold pressure referenced one as well.

Exhaust will be too loud....Will I be able with two us be able to see a PSI change? I figure pushing the 650rwhp limit it would end up setting the BAP to "max" anyway...correct or not?

Will the pump prime the system by just putting the key into the "run" position without starting the car?


This should be all of my questions...thanks again!
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 01:01 PM
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The PCM will prime the pump when the key is placed in the ign run position.
Set the BAP for max. 17V output under WOT. Any more and you will cause the pump to cavitate.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
The PCM will prime the pump when the key is placed in the ign run position.
Set the BAP for max. 17V output under WOT. Any more and you will cause the pump to cavitate.
One question always leads to another......the Instructions I don't believe cover it down to a given voltage. What do I do? Do you have experience with the MSD on CW or CCW turns to achieve 17V at WOT?
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BlwnTA
One question always leads to another......the Instructions I don't believe cover it down to a given voltage. What do I do? Do you have experience with the MSD on CW or CCW turns to achieve 17V at WOT?
Use a voltmeter. The MSD voltage setting will vary with pump current load.
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Racetronix
Use a voltmeter. The MSD voltage setting will vary with pump current load.

Thanks for all the help!
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