Arkangel77

iTrader: (2)

I just got this From Racetronix. I thought it might be helpfull to some of you~

Please review the pictures in our ad as they explain much of what you are asking about:
http://www.racetronix.com/Racetronix..._Pump_Kit.html

Here are the instructions:

PUMP INSTALLATION:
http://www.racetronix.com/images/FLT1/Dcp_1590a.jpg

Unplug and remove module from tank carefully. Do not scratch the polished ends of the metal lines that go into the push-lock fittings. It is best to cover the ends with tape while you work on the fuel module. The slightest scratch can cause the lines to leak.

Pop off the float arm with a small screwdriver so that you do not damage the sender while working on the bucket.

Separate the bucket at top with a screwdriver. If there is too much glue from the factory then you can gently tap the seam with a hammer to crack the seal. Be gentle as you do not want to shatter the plastic. A rubber or plastic mallet is preferred. Do not cut the top off the bucket.

Unplug the pump.

Remove the plastic hose using a knife / razor blade to make a slit in the plastic hose where it is crimped onto the black plastic push-lock connector

Place the pump aside in a safe place as it is full of gas.

Remove the black zip tie around the foam gasket at the top of the new Racetronix pump. (may be removed already)

Make sure the o-ring on the bottom of the pump is seated in its groove and lubricated well with the silicon grease supplied. Excess grease will not harm the fuel system as it will quickly dissolve and dissipate.

Insert the new pump into the bucket making sure the o-ring is firmly seated in the bottom. You should feel the pump slip into place. The pump should be held firmly in place once seated in the bucket properly. *

* NOTE: Some buckets have ribs on the side which prevent the pump from sitting straight up in the bucket. You will have to shave these down if your bucket has them.

Run a bead of the supplied glue around the sealing edge of the bucket. Do not use an excessive amount of glue causing it to drop everywhere. Just enough to coat the lip evenly all around the top of the bucket. Do not get the glue on your hands or eyes as it is very dangerous.

Replace the top of the bucket. Using a soldering iron or hot object melt / tack the plastic in a few places around the lip to get it to hold in place while the glue sets. If you do not have a soldering iron you may use some heavy-duty tape or wire ties to hold the bucket closed while the glue sets. It is best to leave the glue set overnight to ensure a good bond. Minimum set time for the glue will be three hours at room temperature.

Push the expanded end of the pump's flex tube onto the black push lock connector (not the metal tube).
It may be a bit tight so use some supplied silicon grease if required. Tighten the gear clamp firmly. Do not over tighten the gear clamp causing it to distort.

Remove the push-on black ground wire beside the level sender. Remove the orange connector lock. Press down on the lock tab using a screwdriver to unplug the connector. Remove the grey pin lock carefully on the connector by depressing its exposed ears on either side of the black power connector. Make note of the holes where the grey and black wires go on paper. If you mix these wires up you will be dropping the tank again!!! Using the paper clip supplied remove the grey and black wires by inserting the paper clip into the edge channels from the front of the connector to release their locking tangs. Pull out the gray and black terminals. Insert the new terminals. The white + wire replaces the grey wire. Replace the grey pin lock. Inspect the mating connector's male pins for corrosion. If they are black or corroded you can gently clean them with steel wool or 400-600 grit sand paper. Do not over do it as these pins are plated. Plug in the connector. Replace the orange connector lock. Plug in the ground clip to the male terminal near the level sender. Slip the fuel hose over the black push-lock fitting's barbed end and secure it with the hose clamp. Make sure it is tight but not too tight as to slice the hose or twist / distort the hose clamp.

Let the bucket sit for a few hours or preferably overnight before immersing it in the gas tank. It is a good idea to make sure the bucket has bonded properly before installation.

Make sure there is no dirt or rust in your tank before replacing the pump assembly. Make sure there are no pin holes in the filter sock. We have had few pumps returned to us that have failed within the first few hours of use which upon inspection have been contaminated. Walbro pumps are thoroughly tested before they leave the factory. Usually if one fails prematurely it is because of contamination or improper installation.

HARNESS INSTALLATION:

Mount the relay and the chassis ground lead together on the bolt as shown in our ad picture here: http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX.../Dcp_1169a.jpg

This bolt is located just in front of the driver's side rear tire. Use the silicone grease packet to coat the bolt head, threads and ground lead to prevent corrosion.

Plug in the connectors and insert the connector locks as shown in the picture above. The sending unit plugs into the Racetronix harness and the Racetronix harness plugs into the chassis connector as shown in this

picture: http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX.../Dcp_1169a.jpg

Run the power cable along the brake lines, cross over the top of the transmission housing to the passenger's quarter panel. Mount the fuse holder on the back of the alternator using the factory large black bolt along with the flat and tooth washers provided in the Racetronix kit. Connect the power lead to the alternator's output stud. Use some silicone grease to prevent corrosion. You will have to make a small slit / cut in the edge of the boot to get the wire in as shown here: http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX.../LT1_fuse1.JPG

Secure all wires with the wire ties provided.

A booster interface connector set is included with the harness if required. The booster interface connectors should be installed such that the power input / male connector is on the supply end pointing towards the relay. The booster output takes the female connector and plugs which supplies output to the pump.

This covers most of it. The rest is common sense. Go over your installation to make sure you have not missed anything.

Enjoy!