Now everyone knows LOL, I tell everyone mine is a power steering cooler

 

i have a racetronix and right now i'm not very happy with it, cause when I whack the throttle it drops to 53 psi. When I had external T trex pump with my stock pump I ran rock steady 60 all the time.

I'm thinking the shop that put it in for me, installed something wrong.. I've been told its the stock regulator but I'm not so sure.

 

dual a600's

 

Exactly. Cheap and dependable.

Rick

 

I'm going with a Weldon 2035a.

 

I thought of that idea in a dream...lol! Or was it some guy with a black t/a that told me?

 

You'll like it. The police are very curious though about the humming/whine coming from the car at idle.

Rick

 

When I had my Racetronix’s it did the same thing……
The reason for the FP Reg being at fault is its in the wrong spot on the car…. Its at the tank and it should be at the rails where FP should be read….. so after fuel leaves the Tank and FP Reg it has no idea what FP is ta the rail.. ie what the car is demanding at the motor….

Kyle

 

I have a 2025 and that thing is crazy loud, thats why I didnt use it, with a stock cam and a catback its louder then the blower But if I do a 'real' fuel system down the raod I will use it

 

Yup, my racetronix did the same thing. The ATI inline pump/stock pump held pressure better.

 

so hmmm. A elminator,2025, or dual 420's in tank?? john what kinda line your running from the tank with the 420's?

hey JUGGS you running FI this year???

 

-10 to the pumps I think, I can't remember.

 

Why duals out of the tank.A single -10 wont flow enough?I take it a single -12 wont work either.Im just trying to gather some info,so when the time comes to plumb my car i have it figured out already.

 

The reason for dual –8an lines in the sump kits most sell are both dual outputs of 3/8 npt fittings…… there for you use a 3/8 npt fitting with a male –8an fitting and then run both of them into a Y-Block to feed the –10an line.
Then the Y-Block up front to feed each Fuel rail… here again the rail is 3/8 npt….
So the same fitting is used and again.

Hope that clarified it for you.

Kyle

 

ha no cat back for me singler 4 inch dump !

 

humm whatever do i do....

are you running any type of voltage meter on yours...street driven at all?

 

Im sumping my stock '96 tank with a Competition Engineering sump... I basically notched it to fit the contour of the tank and clear my muffler. No big deal, just some patient work scribing and grinding. CE's instructions recommend a tank sealer from the Eastwood Co. which I'll be using on my tank after the welding is done.
You really should base your fuel pump decisions on the amount of flow needed and at what psi you need that flow. For my setup, I needed 600lb-hr of flow at 60psi (Fuel pressure + boost pressure w/ 1:1 reg)
An A-1000 would have been too small and an Eliminator would have been overkill and either would have required a pump controller to help keep the fuel cool.

My setup will consist of a single 10an line from the sump to filter to y-block, then to parallel plumbed Walbro 255's. After that, another Y-block to a single 8an line to feed the rails. At the rails, Im using a tee but a y-block would be more efficient if you have the room. From each rail, Im running a 6an to an aeromotive reg.

 

If you want to better control of your fuel pressure and don't mind spending some money on your fuel system you could try a set up like mine.

I have dual Walboro 255's intank and run a modified Z06 intake and fuel rail system with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (mounted on the rail). My system uses a 6an line from the fuel rail back into the tank. I have Mototron 65 lb/hr injectors and pod mounted autometer pressure guage referenced at the fuel rail.

The way my system is set up means I can control fuel and maintain a constant pressure throughout the entire fuel system.

 

Same idea as the rest of the setups posted on here. How's the car coming?

 

No. One of my pumps is run off a hobs switch, that Intmd8 wired up. he has skilz.