Fueling & Injection Fuel Pumps | Injectors | Rails | Regulators | Tanks

Fuel Pressure Still Dropping...

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Old 05-25-2006 | 04:20 PM
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yeah..i got 2 new pumps coming in tomorrow

i did not see that rubber hose between the pumps. will do that tomorrow.
Old 05-25-2006 | 04:25 PM
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What are you going to use to have the 3rd pump come on only at WOT??
Old 05-25-2006 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
What are you going to use to have the 3rd pump come on only at WOT??
nothing...im not doing the 3rd pump now. gonna see if 2 new pumps and the casper volt booster works...if not then I will either...yeah..
Old 05-25-2006 | 10:39 PM
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I still think you will have the issue of fuel pressure drop with the 2 pumps. You have a lot of -8an fuel line to fill there Earnest.


Take a look at these RPM WOT controllers. You can get these to work your 3rd pump.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...del=86&dept=11

Of course you can get the mechanical one that mounts to the TB, when you go 80% or more WOT the switch turns on and you have your 3rd pump. When I go 3rd pump I'm going to do the window switch.. You can control both your 2nd and 3rd pumps like this is you like too..



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Old 05-29-2006 | 11:10 AM
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why 3 pumps and have more of a risk of something going wrong then just buying a dependable single pump that flows enough.
Old 05-29-2006 | 11:21 AM
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place add here for single pump that is as dependable and flows as much as 3 walbros? p.s. include price of dependable voltage regulator for said pump.

also u forgot that said pump must install in factory location
Old 05-29-2006 | 02:58 PM
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Earnest any updates?

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Old 05-29-2006 | 03:20 PM
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nope..im chaing 2 gremlins now..my fuel pressure and hp tuners 2 bar 1998 program http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6151
Old 07-09-2006 | 05:11 PM
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update
2bar 98 SD program needed a code fix and works great! thx HP Team

for 02SSLE as I see you are having the same problem.

i would try changing the base fuel pressure to 43.5psi and see if you still have a fuel pressure drop? I did this and still had a pressure drop with 12psi. 7psi no.

in your thread you said the fuel pressure dropped to 50psi? so your base is 58psi and add 1psi per pound of boost. so 58+12=70psi max pressure but at redline you are registering 50psi?

new plan is 3 pumps in tank...2 hot wired..and 1 pump to come on under boost only. ran fine for several years with 2 pumps on all the time..no problem. just need a little more fuel up top.
Old 07-09-2006 | 10:58 PM
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If the pressure drops on a boost referenced regulator up top, y'all are out of pump(s) at that pressure. Walbros don't flow well over 60-65psi.
Old 07-10-2006 | 10:19 AM
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Mecham.. I would not use a Hobbs switch for the Activation.

Use the RPM Switch by MSD for the Activation of the 3rd pump.. Set it for say 2800 rpms, which is where you'll be starting to get into boost..

Take care.

Clint
Old 07-10-2006 | 11:01 AM
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i use the built in hobbs switch on my e boost... and unlike superchargers you never know what rpm you will need the fuel
Old 07-10-2006 | 05:31 PM
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Just in my experence I've had better luck with a RPM activated switch like the nice MSD unit that runs about $70 bucks from summit..

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

This is a nice unit and nearly guarantee's activation, VS, a cheaper boost sencative switch + When your shifting gears, the pump will turn on and off when you get off the throttle, Via the boost switch, then turn on again through each gear. I like the "ON" switch above a certain rpm, this rpm switch makes more since IMO.

But mighty mouse your the man, and don't let anyone tell you different! Being serious here!! I've always enjoyed your car, RWHP and fast 1/4 times..

Clint
Old 07-10-2006 | 06:18 PM
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i dunno about all that, but your point is good, it would always be on during a 1/4 run.
Old 07-10-2006 | 07:22 PM
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If you want to "make sure" any kind of switch doesn't fail y'all at the track, wire a shunt connector between whatever kind of switch you use. I use a hobbs on the street and just pop in the shunt in 10 seconds at the track. No worries about a switch.




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