Boost referenced fuel system installed, and functional
#21
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what is the part number of that silver piece you used to hook the return line up to the fuel pump housing? Also if you could give me the # of that 14mm to -6an fitting you used on the block would be great.
#22
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most people do this type of mod to increase the capacity of the fuel system. running through the stock sending unit bs and stock pressure line, you have not done that. that is how you've avoided any modifications to the sending unit.
it also sounds like your regulator is not working correctly, sould be 58 plus every pound of boost.
it also sounds like your regulator is not working correctly, sould be 58 plus every pound of boost.
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Originally Posted by HellRaiser
what is the part number of that silver piece you used to hook the return line up to the fuel pump housing? Also if you could give me the # of that 14mm to -6an fitting you used on the block would be great.
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Originally Posted by CAT3
The quick disconnect is available from purechoiceperformance.com (its listed under New Items, LT1/LS1 fuel rail adapters) or from Russell which is always on backorder.
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ooops. Sorry. IF you order the PN 5800, call and tell them you only need the 3/8", which has a different PN. Or order two 3/8", the other one (PN 5800 is two pieces) is a 5/16" which is not right size for LS1, unless you want to run a new purge line!
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
most people do this type of mod to increase the capacity of the fuel system. running through the stock sending unit bs and stock pressure line, you have not done that. that is how you've avoided any modifications to the sending unit.
it also sounds like your regulator is not working correctly, sould be 58 plus every pound of boost.
it also sounds like your regulator is not working correctly, sould be 58 plus every pound of boost.
As for part 2.....you must not have read these posts thoroughally. The FPR works wonderfully and now that I have it hooked to a straight up boost source (and not a vacuum/boost source). Vacuum/boost fluctuated the pressure...but that was a mistake in picking the reference source, not a problem with the regulator. Now that things are hooked up to my liking, I have 58PSI at idle and normal driving....and approx 63PSI (that would be 58 + 5PSI boost) at WOT. It doesn't function better than that!
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#28
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i wasnt knocking your set up, sounds like it is doing what you wanted, thats all that matters.
what i am saying is you make it sound like there was some trick that kept you from having to do any modifications to the tank etc. when in reality there is no trick, you just chose to not increase the capacity.
sounds like your regulator is not defective. that is good. i have seen problems with aeromotive units. however it will simplify your tuning if you allow the regulator to see boost and vacuum as it is supposed to.
what i am saying is you make it sound like there was some trick that kept you from having to do any modifications to the tank etc. when in reality there is no trick, you just chose to not increase the capacity.
sounds like your regulator is not defective. that is good. i have seen problems with aeromotive units. however it will simplify your tuning if you allow the regulator to see boost and vacuum as it is supposed to.
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
i wasnt knocking your set up, sounds like it is doing what you wanted, thats all that matters.
what i am saying is you make it sound like there was some trick that kept you from having to do any modifications to the tank etc. when in reality there is no trick, you just chose to not increase the capacity.
sounds like your regulator is not defective. that is good. i have seen problems with aeromotive units. however it will simplify your tuning if you allow the regulator to see boost and vacuum as it is supposed to.
what i am saying is you make it sound like there was some trick that kept you from having to do any modifications to the tank etc. when in reality there is no trick, you just chose to not increase the capacity.
sounds like your regulator is not defective. that is good. i have seen problems with aeromotive units. however it will simplify your tuning if you allow the regulator to see boost and vacuum as it is supposed to.
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For a big front mount, aftermarket shortblock, large nitrous hits, or anything else pushing 600+ then yes, I fully agree that increased capacity and thus new plumbing throughout is necessary.
As for tuning, well....we tried the vacuum and boost reference. CAT3 is pretty good at tuning and we were not having luck when both vacuum and boost were factors. Mainly the vacuum at idle is less then during some part throttle driving and during powered decels. Really screwed with the A/F ratio on those. Taking the vacuum out of the equation made the overall feel of the car and the tuning parameters look better. Now, keep in mind this car is still running the MAF, which is not ideal for tuning FI. After I return from Iraq I'm installing a speed density program via HP tuners. It'll require tons of driving around and logging to perfect that one. Unfortunately I leave in 2 weeks, so time to do this is not a luxury I have. Once I do, I'm guessing I can get a very nice tune with both vacuum and boost referencing the FPR.
The short term goal was to make the car daily driver reliable and safe for the wife (yes, I let a woman drive this thing
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