Fueling & Injection Fuel Pumps | Injectors | Rails | Regulators | Tanks

Trap Door

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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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my fuel pump hit the can so i replaced it at first was kinda worried about doing the trap door but if i was 2 ever do it again thats the only way great thing is now i have easy way to get back to it if needed.....
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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thank you sir
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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did you do the same thing?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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I know a couple guys who did the trap door thing for bad sending units - only difference was the measurements for cutting - the '98, and '99 and up fuel tanks are a little different.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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i have to do this to a buddys car soon, anyone have any pics or measurements i can use?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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on my 98 its the 3rd slot over 17 1/2 long 8 wide
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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i just swapped my fuel pump... i didn't wanna cut into my car so i did it the old fashioned way... the first time we did it we took our and time and didn't realy know what need to be done and it took a good 4 days (after getting out of work, so it was worked on like 7ish - 11ish)... then the one tube in the gas tank fell off when we had it all back together... ... the second time we pulled it we had the tank off the car in a 1/2 hour, and thats jacking it up, dropping the suspension and rear, (exhaust was already off) and getting the tank on the ground... if i did it again i still wouldn't cut a whole in the car.. if you know what your doing or know what you need to do, and have a garage or some place out of the rain to do it, its not that bad.


on another note, after all that... it turns out it wasn't the pump that was bad... i drove the car for 40 minutes yesterday with teh new racetronix installed... and then it quite. just like my stocker.. if i put power to the pump from clip that goes to the gas tank, it'll run. and theres power where the solenoid is in the front, but the pump won't prime when i turn the key in the on position... must be some kind of electrical problem in tehre... gggrrr... ne one need a stock fuel pump?

Last edited by 98_Formula; Aug 22, 2006 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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not saying what you do is wrong but why not?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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i dunno i just didn't want to cut a huge hold in the back of my car... especially in a spot where welding it back in place wouldn't be an options unless the tank was dropped ne ways! but thats just me
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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thats understandable but theres really no reason not 2 imo
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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I just started to change mine today. I borrowed an air nibbler from a buddy and it was a piece of cake to cut out. It took me like 3 min. After I get it all done, I will cut a thin plastic plate to size, duct tape it in place and drop the carpet back over top. You will never be able to tell. I should note that the kit does not come with a sock and the stock sock is not the same size. It should not be reused anyway but if you are planning on ordering and going to the dealer to get a new sock, the stock sock wont work. I went to a couple of auto parts and finally found a sock that would work. I put it all back together and I called it a day. I had to remove the pretty anodized outer cover as it wouldn't work with the sock that I got. Next I have to tackle the wiring and then I should be done.
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 11:42 AM
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Hell yeah, do the trap door method, you wont regret it.

I purchased a Demel just for the job, used the side cutting disc, you will need about 4 disks. Cut it in the right place, find out from others where the pump is located for your year.

I can get the pump out and back in when on my 30 minute lunch break.

Had some bad fuel so have to get to the pump, the filter was glogged. Done the trap door for that. Then some time later I got a bigger flowing pump, so was handy I had the trap door. A couple of month later a pipe came off in the tank (between the pump and top of tank) so this was the thrid time I needed to get in the tank.

I covered the hole is a sheet of aluminum, and screwed it down, added some foam around the edge before screwing down.

I would certainly recommend the trap door method to anyone.
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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Just did the trap door and ractronix plug and play in 3 hours total. Removing speakers, lifting carpet, cut 7x8" with 4 dremel disc's, swaped pumps, replaced wiring with racetronix, cut 8x9" alluminum plate and siliconed and used really short self tapping sheet metal screws every 4". Next time 30min should do
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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We dropped the tank out of my friends 94' camaro to put in a 255. Wasnt very hard at all and dont see what the big fuss is about. Took maybe 5 hours and 3 of that was letting the glue dry and doing other crap. And at the same time we did the bump stop mod to my WS6. (had to take off alot of material from the bump stop)
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Pics of the location for the trap door for a 99?
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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Why do so many people think they have to drop the rearend out of an f-body to drop the fuel tank? As long as you can get the exhaust out of the way, drop the panhard bar and the support bar above that, and the fuel tank will come right out.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:13 AM
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I don't know that the dremel method is the best way to do this. When cutting with a grinding wheel, there is spark. If you have a bad seal on the pump, you could end up igniting the fumes and, at best, end up with no eyebrows. I used a nibbler and it cut that aluminum like butter.
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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I have a 99 bird with a 3.8 that won't start. pulled the fuel filter and cranked engine. no pressure. I was not having any problems prior to this. Is there something else that could cause the fule pump not to work. maybe an inertia switch or oil pressure switch. is mounting an external pump an option? does any know of a fuel pump test connector under the hood. any help would be aprecciated
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Just made a trap door on my 2000 T/A. It took about 30 mins to cut out.
8'x8' i think it was worth it IMO.
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