Frost

iTrader: (45)

My setup is as follows:

Stock-inch LS1, fully forged
Comp Cams 228/228 115LSA
TEA stg 2.5 heads
LS6 intake
PTK / PTS Front-mount 76GTS turbo

My fuel system was a Racetronix in-tank pump (Walbro) and wiring harness
Nasty Nate rails
#6 feed line with stock line for the return
60lb injectors
front mount fuel pressure regulator, boost referenced
MSD Pump booster
Julio's Alkycontrol Meth kit

At 12.5 PSI I was struggling to keep the wideband south of 11.0:1 with drastically falling fuel pressure AND meth, so it was time to make a change since I am looking for about 15-16psi on pump and meth. Looking at where the MAF maxes out in the logs I'd guess I'm somewhere just north of 600RWHP, but I haven't dyno'd the car, so I don't know exactly.


I ordered (among other things) the extra pump, relay/hotwire kit, hobbs switch, and the other small pieces from Bob and Jake at EPP (Great people!). Here's what it looks like:

Opened the trap-door back up and pulled the bucket



Since the bucket principle is out the window at this point, I cut the bucket up a bit at the bottom to allow fuel access. Keep in mind with this that you can't run the tank empty anymore, as your primary pump needs to stay submersed for cooling.



EPP sent me the "union" (don't know what it's called) that looks like a shower head. They do this regularly and are good at it. I (and my friends) could NOT figure out how to fit that thing in there even with some of the barbs cut off as shown. I opted for a T fitting that is also shown. It's true it's not ideal for flow, but it hands down worked for me.



Inner bucket is cut to allow the second pump, and strapped to the racetronix pump beside it. The lines are 6an internal and clamped to my smaller T-fitting




What the heck, a few more holes can't hurt on the other side:



Holes for the wires, soon to be JBquickWeld sealed:



Laying out the new pump relay which is triggered under boost via Hobbs pressure switch:



...and lastly, things are back together:

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Before this, my fuel pressure plummetted into the high 30s, now it's rock solid in the mid low 70s (boost referenced)...... I may lower base pressure to 50 lbs or somewhere near that so it doesn't swing so high...

Like I said, that T isn't ideal, but I am at 13.5psi now and am still seriously overfueling the engine at WOT with NO dip in pressure.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

awesome work frost! So already having the Racetronix set up, how much more did it cost to upgrade to the twin pumps?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I don't have an exact tally, but it was somewhere just under 200 bucks for EVERY odd and end.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

I noticed you didn't run the #6 line to a bulkhead fitting in the tank, and I didn't see the braided line in any of your pics. Did you just adapt it to the stock line at some point?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

There is about 2-3 feet of factory line from the bucket to the filter. If I have issues it will be the next thing changed. I just kept reading about good results with 1-2 pumps and factory lines so I figured what the hell. Judging by how much fuel I've pulled out of the tune, I'd say that this should work fine even at the 700RWHP (dynojet M6 numbers) level and some point beyond.

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

awesome work can u make a list of what u bought?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

yea, i'm interested as well. I mean.... why spend $230 on a boost a pump when you can spend around $200 like you say and have a way more stable set up? Thats cheaper than i thought and i may have to do it now! Cool stuff

2002/Black/SS

iTrader: (3)

the real question here is if its worth it to kill the bucket vacuum system, how bad would it really be to have ur tank lower then a quarter??? cause i always forget to fill up! what if i attached the pump to the outside of the bucket???

Frost

iTrader: (45)

How would you get the bucket back in with a pump stuck on the outside?


The parts list is very short... a few tiny hose clamps, about 10" of #6 line, the pump, a T-fitting with 3 barbed sides from Lowes, the relay (came with the long power lead to run to the pump), the Hobbs pressure switch, some black wire loom/covering.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

You know the more I look at your setup, I need to ask something. Is it even possible to put a 90 degree bulkhead where the stock lines attach? There really isn't too much room for a bulkehead fitting to go there. If not, where would you put it. All of the setups i've seen with the bulkhead installed are in the 98 metal tank.

2002/Black/SS

iTrader: (3)

good point, maybe i can cut a hole in the tank to fit it in, i think its pretty worth it, is the tank supposed to be sealed/airtight?

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for posting up. I'm going to be installing a racetronix kit over the holidays, and seeing your picture of the "trapdoor" made me decide how I was going to do my install. Pulled the tank on a friends last time, and I won't be doing that again.

datsbad

iTrader: (3)

SO YOU CUT YOUR FLOOR WHY ? You couldnt drop the tank ???

mturco

iTrader: (5)

The problem with your design is you are going from two -6 to 1 -6 tube. This is going to be very restrictive. The way we did it was two -8 barbed reducers to -6 to a -8 Tee and -8 bulkhead out the top. But this required moving one of the sensors slightligh except it allows for all that new fuel to move better. Very similar design though. If i can get some pics i will post them up.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I have no doubt that what you speak of flows better... If I have issues it's not a hard setup to work on... BUT I'll tell you this... After lowering my base FP and re-tuning (boost referenced regulator was CRANKING the fuel at stock base pressure) I got my setup up to 15psi, and the wideband was back and forth from buried at 9.9:1 to just touching 10.0:1 and fuel pressure rose rock solid with boost and held. That is MORE THAN ENOUGH fuel for 700RWHP at that boost level. My timing is within 2-3 degrees of where it will stay, and it's PIG *** RICH still.... so why buy more fittings? I have hoped to hit 700RWHP on pump gas and methanol and then let it fly on some good gas and see what runs out first, the fueling or the turbo.

Jake@EPP

Its possible to run a 90deg bulkhead, it has to be a TIGHT 90deg due to size constraints but it will allow you to run -8 from the tank for a twin in tank that can support 700+

ss1

iTrader: (32)

Where would you install that? Would you cut off the stock plastic line feed and drill where the stock line comes out, or one of the vents, with a step-drill, or put is someplace else? It seems there is so little room there I can't tell how it would fit.

Learnhead

iTrader: (2)

That's slick Frost. DIY.
I did a Walbro on my 94 z28 which is now my brother's, and now I'm thinking of how to do a dual in tank in my 99 vette. I'm thinking that to keep the bucket I might just make a new bucket out of some galvanized sheet metal. How hard can it be, as long as gasoline doesn't eat RTV.

Jake@EPP

The fuel bucket from LPE is a direct drop in with a 255lph. However, it looks like APS has a similar system in the works, check there site for more info.