Fuel pumps quit working - electrical?
Fuel pumps quit working - electrical? I have a dual intank racetronix setup. When I turn the key on it doesn't power the fuel pumps. I have the racetronix wiring harness. I have direct power all the way back to the relays. Doesn't seem that the relays are switching over to power the pumps. I think the problem lyes on when you turn the key on, what happens to tell the relay to open? to continue current to the pumps?
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
With the relay there is a smaller gauge hot wire from a switched source (keyed on) that energizes the relay's internal coil. Once that happens a heavy gauge internal switch moves to complete a more robust connection; hence the click you should hear. There will be a heavier gauge hot wire that is probably terminated at your battery or alternator that should then be energized. This crosses through the relay and an equally large diameter wire runs to the fuel pump terminal on top of the tank. On my car, I have a 16 gauge wire from the switch source that allows the current of a 10 gauge wire from a battery connected post - through the relay into the pump. Hard to visualize without a schematic....
If you can, run a jumper from a hot source to the side of the relay that the harness is supposed to handle. I'll look a schematic and give you the relay post numbers.
If you can, run a jumper from a hot source to the side of the relay that the harness is supposed to handle. I'll look a schematic and give you the relay post numbers.
Dan,
If you purchased my kit, pick up the phone & call me. 724-322-8505.
I'm here to help you.
The pumps & wiring harness is checked for complete function & fuel pressure/leakage before I ship. The problem is in the install or from obvious shipping damage.
1. Check your fuses.
Do you have good power & ground feeds from the battery?
Do you have the 2 Weatherpack jumpers in at the front of the wiring harness. (1 is for your hobbs/nitrous switch.) If these are disconnected, then the pumps will not work.
Did you plug in the factory harness into the new harness
If yes to the above, see #2
2. Do you get power to the relays through the grey wire for a few seconds at key on? If not it is your computer/factory wiring. If yes, see #3
3. Do you have a good ground at the rear grounding lug? If yes, see #4
4. With the above items OK, the relays should click at key on. If not recheck & fix one of the first three items.
5. If the relays click, then you have a bad connection from the harness to the pumps. Does your fuel gauge work. If, no you may not have the pump harness plugged in (barrel connector).
Call me if you need more help.
If you purchased my kit, pick up the phone & call me. 724-322-8505.
I'm here to help you.
The pumps & wiring harness is checked for complete function & fuel pressure/leakage before I ship. The problem is in the install or from obvious shipping damage.
1. Check your fuses.
Do you have good power & ground feeds from the battery?
Do you have the 2 Weatherpack jumpers in at the front of the wiring harness. (1 is for your hobbs/nitrous switch.) If these are disconnected, then the pumps will not work.
Did you plug in the factory harness into the new harness
If yes to the above, see #2
2. Do you get power to the relays through the grey wire for a few seconds at key on? If not it is your computer/factory wiring. If yes, see #3
3. Do you have a good ground at the rear grounding lug? If yes, see #4
4. With the above items OK, the relays should click at key on. If not recheck & fix one of the first three items.
5. If the relays click, then you have a bad connection from the harness to the pumps. Does your fuel gauge work. If, no you may not have the pump harness plugged in (barrel connector).
Call me if you need more help.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
The trip connection on the relay will probably be numbered as 86. This will in turn throw the internal switch that completes the connection between terminal 30 and 87 if 85 has been grounded. Terminal 87 should be the large current wire going to your pumps.
Ignore 87a and the yellow, green / violet wires. Just note the how 30 and 87 should complete the high amp circuit to your pumps and how 85 and 86 are the trigger.
Ignore 87a and the yellow, green / violet wires. Just note the how 30 and 87 should complete the high amp circuit to your pumps and how 85 and 86 are the trigger.
I just talked to Lonnie... HELL OF A GOOD GUY... but I still have a problem. It's not the racetronix harness or the pumps, or the relay. Has to do with getting a signal from the key to the factory harness in the back. Lonnie helped me backtrack and test the complete harness. Under the car, where the factory harness mounts to the car, I disconnected the harness from the body. Put a 12vlt source the the grey wire and it activates the relay/pumps. So the problem is from the body mount forward somewhere. I have checked the 20am fuse in the fuse box, and also swapped the relay in the fuse box. Still nothing. Are those the only two fuses/relays on LS1 cars? I know Lt1 cars have one under drivers side kick panel. Does LS1 cars? I assume the factory wire harness runs under the console? I had the console out as I had rebuild the tranny. Maybe a wire got cut there somehow?? Any suggestions throw it my way? Any suggestions on what to check to eliminate if farther into the car?
Dan
Dan
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
Just so there's no confusion, #2 where Lonnie asks if you have 12 volts for a few seconds should be noted. The initial power to the pump is quite short until the PCM determines the engine is being started. The power will not remain for more than a second or two. Check that grey wire again to see if you are getting a short burst of power and follow it back to the PCM as that is where I think it originates. If you have no voltage then I would look into the power control module. Also, there may be a prime wire where you can override the keying of power for the pump. If it exists like it does for the LT1 then this is specifically put there for situations like yours.
Trending Topics
There is definetely no power to the grey wire. We checked while turning the key on/off at least 10 times. Where/what is the power control module? I appreciate everyones help on this!
Dan
Dan
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
power train control module = PCM. The grey box under the windshield cowl - passenger side. You are getting to the point where you need a schematic. Have you checked your ignition fuse. I shorted my ignition for 1/10 of a second and the car would crank endlessly but not start. It is an easily blown fuse which I'm certain turns off the fuel as well as spark.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 26
From: A Racetronix dealer near you...
Thanks!
__________________
Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<
Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<