passenger side injector problem
passenger side injector problem my cars running weak. but when i get into the throttle it all of a sudden comes to life. i can let the car sit and idle and it will run really rough. but i can unhook the passenger side injectors and nothing changes. at all. but when i take a jumper wire hit it from the pink wire on number 2 (passenger front) and hit a ground on it it bogs and clears up for about 5 seconds and goes back to running rough. its a 98 trans am. professional products intake and rails crossover supply tube in back. 28lb stock injectors stock tune just a bolt on car pretty much. getting power to injectors with the key on @ 12.3 volts. any ideas? thanks
- Scottie
- Scottie
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee WI
Its good that you checked to see that the injectors are getting power. Next step would be to see if the computer is turning them on/grounding them. Best way to see that would be with a lab scope. I would check scan data to make sure all load inputs are ok, MAF,TPS, coolant temp. etc.... although you can almost assume that your main load inputs are ok because the problem is only on one side of the engine. Which would lead me to believe that feedback for that bank is faulty- the O2 sensor on that side. You could go to that o2 signal wire and monitor voltage, if it is reading high voltage(around a volt)which indicates a rich condition when you know its running lean you know you have to replace it.If the signal is reading low(around 0 volts) then you know feedback on that bank is ok and it's not the o2 sensor. if the sensor is reading lean when the car is running lean maybe the sensor is being diluted,air manegement if it has it or an exhaust leak.maybe there is a restriction of fuel to that rail only at idle which would seem very odd to me. very interesting problem. I hope my input was usefull, sorry if it wasn't. please let me know how it turns out. Happy troubleshooting!!!
threw a code for the maf sensor low voltage again. cleared it. and the car ran normal again. but i havent had a chance to drive it. also multiple cyl. misfires. and band 2 sensor 1 o2 sensor code. still trying to figure out what was causing this. nothing is coming out wrong yet.
- Scottie
- Scottie
still doin it i cant find anything thats wrong. im trying to track down a 98 computer and see if that fix's it. after that im offering a 20$ paypal to whoever figures it out.
- Scottie
- Scottie
i had an idea yesterday and thought id try it to see what would happen. so i unhooked all of my o2's. 2 sims in back 2 bosch's up front. cuz with no signal it would just run a designated fuel and timing curve depending on position of the TPS. so i fired it up and it ran fine. i let it run for 35 minutes or so and couldnt get it to mess up. is it possible something got in my bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor and was telling the motor it was running way to rich and cutting off fuel to the passenger side injectors?
ok i got the computer on its way. i scanned codes and came up with p0102 again. freakin code will not stay off. i've tried 3 different MAF's and still no change. i did unhook all my o2 sensors and i couldnt get the car to mess up anymore. the 2 front o2's were bosch they had maybe 80 miles on them at best. the rear has o2 sims. the car is constantly throwing codes for o2's and MAF. usually i can unhook the o2's or swap sides and the code will go away for a day or so. i honestly dont know where to go with this. i've changed o2's with 4 sets i have. 2 sets that are brand new. i've checked voltage to all the injectors, MAF, o2's and everything is within spec.
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Verdad Gallardo am i understanding this right. each injector has its own ground. i've checked everything again and it all turned out just fine but this problem isnt making any sense to me.
Here's a shot in the dark... how's your alternator/battery health? What kind of voltage are you putting out at idle? I've seen alternators with a bad regulator not put out very much at idle but once you get on the gas they "spark" to life.
Sounds good... was just saying that because with the engine running at idle it still requires a decent amount of power to run the injectors/coils all that stuff, not sure what kind of amperage draw it is at idle I don't have an ampmeter handy at home or I'd check my car and tell you.