So, I am working under the hood and smell fuel. I pinpoint (or at least I think) to my braided fuel line going to the fuel rail. There are no visible leaks, but that is not saying it can't evaporate.

I did notice the ends on the line (where it slips in the line) is not completely tight. I can get it to move some in and out. I do not know if this is typical, but the fitting it as tight as it can get.

I do not have a lot of experience with the lines, so I am unsure if any kind of movement is acceptable. I may just pull the line off and use the spare line I have left. I was hoping it was just a smell from the evap purge, but I put my nose on the fuel line and I am almost certain it is coming from it.

Any ideas/comments would be appreciated.

 

Unless I'm on crack, none of my lines could be moved in and out of their fittings, and I have done a ton of them on my car.

What kind of fittings are they (brand)? I've had great luck with my Earl's lines and fittings...

 

Not sure, got the kit from speed inc.

I should have been a little more clear. The line does not actually move on the part that bolts to it. I need a pic to better explain, but you have the sleeve on the outside of the hose, then you insert the fitting into the hose, then tighten the nut. The part that inserts in the hose is what is sliding slightly, or I guess the hose slightly slides on it (yeah, confusing, I know).

I would think leaks would be seen, but maybe I can't catch it. I hope it is just a false smell from there and it is actually the evap. I am going to try to spray everything off (just in case I got gas on it at one point recently) and then drive it to see if it comes back. I mean, I am under the hood quite a bit and this is the first I smelt gas fumes.

 

That part shouldn't be sliding either.

I too had a line from Speed Inc (the one with the quick disconnects on both ends), and it leaked a little around the fittings from the first time it was installed until I took it off the car. I think it used Russel fittings, and I could tell they were leaking since the fittings would turn kinda brown with residue over the course of a few weeks (and it would smell of gas).

I'd recommend redoing it just for safety sake...leaking fuel is no matter to be taken lightly.

 

Lovely. Yeah if it is really leaking I am not going to mess with that. Got a link where you got your new stuff at and what you got?

This pisses me off though if it is really a leak, I don't have money to just **** away on stuff like this. I will have to talk to Speed Inc.

 

Well...it is far from stock, and a little overboard for a bolt-on only car But my fuel pressure is WAY more solid than it was previously. Here's an excerpt from a post I made a little while back:

Here's what my engine bay looks like with the regulator:



Here is a close-up of the return line connecting to the EVAP hard line in the engine bay:



Here is the connection at the other end of the EVAP line:



And another angle (the black covering the braided lines is heat shrink tubing so that the stainless braid doesn't rub the crap out of the tank):



The other line you see in the picture above is from the feed line (it is a -8AN into the fuel filter, which uses the larger 3/8" quick disconnect):



I used all Aeromotive quick disconnects (which are $$$). The return is all -6AN braided lines and 5/16" quick disconnects to the hard line except on the top of the tank, where I did a 3/8" quick disconnect hooked to the -6 braided line. The feed side is all -8AN stainless braided line and 3/8" quick disconnects.

What you see cost me a bit more than $50, especially since each of the Aeromotive quick disconnects is about $35-40. But that's how I did it, and I like those quick disconnects much better than the Russel ones I've used in the past.

The Aeromotive quick disconnects are pricey since you need the fitting as well as an o-ring boss to AN adapter to screw into the end of it. You can certainly use the Russel quick disconnects, but I never liked them (they never worked as smoothly as the Aeromotives)...I have -8 lines feeding the rails and -6 for a return (the Aeromotive fittings for 3/8" hard lines are -8 AN and the 5/16" fittings are a -6 AN).

I get all my stuff through Summit Racing...they usually keep the quick disconnects in stock, but I've waited up to 2 months for them to come off back order.

 

If you have the stock rails (I have a feeling you do), you'll need the following to make it work using -8 lines and Aeromotive quick disconnects:

(2) Aeromotive quick disconnects (3/8" hard line to -8AN)
(2) Aeromotive -8 ORB to -8AN adapters
(1) 45* swivel hose end (coming off the hard line from the rear of the car)
(1) 90* swivel hose end (going into rails)

 

at least you don't have to worry about it if you ever go crazy on mods. Looks good though

 

Thanks...I spent lots of time (and money) on it. I will probably jump straight from this engine to a 427+ (not even heads/cam first), so I'm just building around the engine at this point.

 

I have FAST rails on the car right now.

 

FAST rails you say...well, you'll only need one quick disconnect then, and you are already familiar with o-ring boss to AN adapters that they use (the Aeromotive fittings use those same ones). If you are just running into the front of the passenger side rail like I was doing just prior to having the reg up front, the 45 and 90* fittings should work well for you. Is it just the feed line you are having problems with?

 

As far as I know, I will have to pull the rails to check the crossover

 

Most likely, although you could probably get a good enough idea with a small mirror and a flashlight.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....24&postcount=6

 

Interesting...