And launching at 5000+ with a 6-speed on slicks? Any known issues with this shaft in high power applications at the track? Any pros cons vs. carbon fibre? I know there are some nice chromoly shafts out there that are plenty strong, but they're also plenty heavy! I'd like to keep weight down where ever possible, but not at the expense of continuously breaking things *L*.

Any input much appreciated.

 

Well you asked for any I had it on my 93 TA with probably around 360rwhp (12.6@109) I really liked the driveshaft, I have it sitting in my garage waiting to be installed you have to unbolt the exaust or the TA to get it to fit....

Anyways when I ordered it from LPE I talked to the guy for awhile and according to him they put it on almost all there High HP F-bodies even ones with 700hp and severe duty and never had one come back....

Take that how you want it although LPE is a pretty reputable shop....

Bobby

 

Thanks for the feedback! I'm nowhere near 700hp (and probably never will be *L*) but a friend broke the stocker DS on his with basically the same mods I have while launching on slicks, and so I'm gonna replace mine over the winter. He ordered a Bear shaft, which is strong no doubt, but weighs a ton. I want to stick with aluminum and the LPE 3.5" sounds like just the ticket then.

 

I don't have the LPE, but I had a local driveline shop make me a custom length 3.5" dia. x .120" wall thickness 6061-T6 alum. alloy shaft with Spicer weld yokes, Spicer heavy duty 1350 U-joints and Spicer slip yoke. Cost was about $260 total too.

BTW, mine has taken about (40) 5k dumps on ET Streets so far with low 1.7x to high 1.6x 60' times.

 

I just installed mine. I didn't have to unbolt the torque arm or anything to install it. Just fed it right under the axle and over the lip on the torque arm and beside the exhaust ( about where the camera was for the second picture, it went right in) 10 minute install. LPE quots 12.8 lbs and it is only a pound (or 3) heavier than the stock one). Here are a few pics....the first pic is the Lingenfelter (top) and the stock LS1 driveshaft). Don't panic, it is not longer than stock, it just has a shorter slip yoke on the front, so the shaft is longer to compensate (which makes me think that the guys with 12 bolts that need a 1" shorter driveshaft could possibly change to an older F-body yoke and lose an inch). Second photo is the LPE installed in the car.





I like it so far. But I've not had a chance to do any real testing.

 

Nice! Does the LPE come with 1350 yokes?

 

I believe the U-joints were Spicer U-joints. I didn't look for the number on the yoke.

 

So this driveshaft would have to be modified to work in a car with a 12 bolt??

 

I had one but when Rapid motorsports installed my new ARE H/C, Ram clutch and Moser 12 bolt the LPE 3.5" driveshaft was a bit to long. I had to replace it with another stock one for the time being.

 

I've not done a 12 bolt so far, but as I understand it, you will need a driveshaft that is about 1" shorter than stock. I was mentioning that in the pictures, you will notice that the actual shaft is 1" longer (LPE) and has a shorter yoke, if you used the "short yoke" (like on the LPE shaft and the 3rd gen cars) you would remove about 1" of driveshaft length. It was just something I noticed and thought I'd mention in case the idea was useful to someone.

But, yes, I believe you will have to modify it for a 12 bolt (unless that 12 bolt will work with an absolutely stock driveshaft).

Kevin

 

My stock alum driveshaft worked fine with the Moser 12 bolt - no shortening required. I just want a stronger one for launching on slicks .