Moser 9" or 12 Bolt
#22
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Didn't meen any insults EPP. I apologize if i hurt your feelings. Just pointing out you're in every thread with the same copy and paste pushing your 9". I'm not the first person to point this out.
I was just adding another option. And yes, it is a little heavier, but also a cheaper option. I also pointed out that he needs to try and forsee what his future goals may be. Not everyone is made of $$$$ and can swap rears at will.
When I get a rear it will most likely be a Strange 12. Reason is I don't drag, but I would like to get into RR/AX when my current situation improves and I have the extra $$ to do so.
I was just adding another option. And yes, it is a little heavier, but also a cheaper option. I also pointed out that he needs to try and forsee what his future goals may be. Not everyone is made of $$$$ and can swap rears at will.
When I get a rear it will most likely be a Strange 12. Reason is I don't drag, but I would like to get into RR/AX when my current situation improves and I have the extra $$ to do so.
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I would need 3.89's for mine if I was goin to put it on the Track, that is the perfect ratio for my trap speed.
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I have a 2000 Trans Am, A4 and mods are listed in my sig. I am pushing 430 hp at the wheels and I want to upgrade my rear end before it breaks. I plan on adding a 150 shot of nitrous in the future but the rear comes first. I am undecided if I should get a Moser 9" or 12 bolt. The car is mostly drag strip driven and is not a daily driver. Any suggestions on which one I should get and what type of center I should get. I would like to at least go with 4.10 gears. I would like everything to bolt right up just like a stock rear end. Any input will be greatful.
#26
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Didn't meen any insults EPP. I apologize if i hurt your feelings. Just pointing out you're in every thread with the same copy and paste pushing your 9". I'm not the first person to point this out.
I was just adding another option. And yes, it is a little heavier, but also a cheaper option. I also pointed out that he needs to try and forsee what his future goals may be. Not everyone is made of $$$$ and can swap rears at will.
When I get a rear it will most likely be a Strange 12. Reason is I don't drag, but I would like to get into RR/AX when my current situation improves and I have the extra $$ to do so.
I was just adding another option. And yes, it is a little heavier, but also a cheaper option. I also pointed out that he needs to try and forsee what his future goals may be. Not everyone is made of $$$$ and can swap rears at will.
When I get a rear it will most likely be a Strange 12. Reason is I don't drag, but I would like to get into RR/AX when my current situation improves and I have the extra $$ to do so.
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im running 4.10s and on a 26in tire but im comming off the nitrous(6500) and hitting revlimter (6700) in 4th (m6) just before the traps @126 im gonna try a 28in tire this year as long as it dont rub to bad
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I have pretty much the same goals here, a mostly street driven monster that sees occasional RR/AX and almost no 1/4 mile passes. For a good street car, thought I plan on making around 800rwhp when I get my Procharger setup all done, wouldn't the 33 spline Truetrac in a 12 bolt be about as strong as the 31 spline that you have to get if you want a Truetrac 9"? Again, I'm looking for good handling so I need to save as much unsprung weight as possible.
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I have pretty much the same goals here, a mostly street driven monster that sees occasional RR/AX and almost no 1/4 mile passes. For a good street car, thought I plan on making around 800rwhp when I get my Procharger setup all done, wouldn't the 33 spline Truetrac in a 12 bolt be about as strong as the 31 spline that you have to get if you want a Truetrac 9"? Again, I'm looking for good handling so I need to save as much unsprung weight as possible.
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For what you are planning to do, the 12 bolt would indeed work but keep in mind that if you do any launches at a dragstrip with sticky tires, you'll most likely comes home with added gear noise. You might want to consider the Moser M9, which weighs the same as you 10 bolt. I'd go with a locker and 35 spline axles so you can put that 800 rwhp to use. Bob
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#33
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It really shouldn't affect handling too much. Letting off and on the gas can cause a little wiggle, but a lot of cars back in the late 60's and early 70's that road raced used lockers.
A lowered car will work very well with an M9 as the torque arm is designed to fit the curvature of the tunnel. Bob
A lowered car will work very well with an M9 as the torque arm is designed to fit the curvature of the tunnel. Bob
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
Here is the link to the Moser 9 inch, which currently on sale through the holidays.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
Exotic Performance Plus strongly recommends the Moser nine inch. This rear is even tougher than the Moser 12 bolt, and the horsepower of the late model F Body cars keeps escalating every year, which requires a very strong rear. With the recent introduction of the 6.2L GM aluminum block and the excellent flowing 6.2 litre heads, the horsepower of these cars is going to just keep climbing at a very fast pace.The nine inch will handle the power, plus we prefer the way the torque arm is bolted to the nine inch in the same way the oem rear-end is attached. (This is the only good thing about the stock 10 bolt...) The Moser 12 bolt uses four short bolts to attach the torque arm, and they have a habit of loosening up, even when loc-tite is used. Why the nine inch is stronger than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise.The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, than the 12 bolt does.The 9-inch has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt does. This is not much of a difference, but it is worth noting. Bob
Here is the link to the Moser 9 inch, which currently on sale through the holidays.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
Exotic Performance Plus strongly recommends the Moser nine inch. This rear is even tougher than the Moser 12 bolt, and the horsepower of the late model F Body cars keeps escalating every year, which requires a very strong rear. With the recent introduction of the 6.2L GM aluminum block and the excellent flowing 6.2 litre heads, the horsepower of these cars is going to just keep climbing at a very fast pace.The nine inch will handle the power, plus we prefer the way the torque arm is bolted to the nine inch in the same way the oem rear-end is attached. (This is the only good thing about the stock 10 bolt...) The Moser 12 bolt uses four short bolts to attach the torque arm, and they have a habit of loosening up, even when loc-tite is used. Why the nine inch is stronger than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise.The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, than the 12 bolt does.The 9-inch has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt does. This is not much of a difference, but it is worth noting. Bob
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Yes they do, if they end up lasting long enough for you to be able to hear the noise. There are people on here who have had nothing but success with their 10 bolt rear, but they are a rarity. A lot of the 10 bolts break just bangin gears on street tires. Bob
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I have pretty much the same goals here, a mostly street driven monster that sees occasional RR/AX and almost no 1/4 mile passes. For a good street car, thought I plan on making around 800rwhp when I get my Procharger setup all done, wouldn't the 33 spline Truetrac in a 12 bolt be about as strong as the 31 spline that you have to get if you want a Truetrac 9"? Again, I'm looking for good handling so I need to save as much unsprung weight as possible.
A 10 bolt, properly set up, with a spool will last a long time, if you are careful, and the 12 bolt will likely serve your needs, but dont think the Eaton posi is going to handle whatever you throw at it. I **** the Eaton out in short time, and then since going to a spool in the same Moser 12 bolt, I've had zero issues, not even gear whine.
Doing it all over today, I'd go with the Moser 9 or one of the other 9's because of the ease of center section changes, which could make street driving alot more fun. In addition to the bolts working themselves out, as already mentioned. Good luck.
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How noisey is the M9 setup? I race my TA quiet often as well as drive it on the street. I've blown the 10 bolt out of it twice this year and I plan on going to a twin turbo application in the future. The car is currently down because I'm refusing to rebuilt the rear again but can decide on going with the M9 or just the 9" setup.
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If you are trying to save as much unsprung weight as possible, they dont forget to have Moser gun drill the axles, and star flange the ends. While you are at it, having them take a few # off each side of the housing (3" a side in my case) will allow them to also shorten the tube, and the axle (unsprung weight).
A 10 bolt, properly set up, with a spool will last a long time, if you are careful, and the 12 bolt will likely serve your needs, but dont think the Eaton posi is going to handle whatever you throw at it. I **** the Eaton out in short time, and then since going to a spool in the same Moser 12 bolt, I've had zero issues, not even gear whine.
Doing it all over today, I'd go with the Moser 9 or one of the other 9's because of the ease of center section changes, which could make street driving alot more fun. In addition to the bolts working themselves out, as already mentioned. Good luck.
A 10 bolt, properly set up, with a spool will last a long time, if you are careful, and the 12 bolt will likely serve your needs, but dont think the Eaton posi is going to handle whatever you throw at it. I **** the Eaton out in short time, and then since going to a spool in the same Moser 12 bolt, I've had zero issues, not even gear whine.
Doing it all over today, I'd go with the Moser 9 or one of the other 9's because of the ease of center section changes, which could make street driving alot more fun. In addition to the bolts working themselves out, as already mentioned. Good luck.