Beefing up the 10 bolt
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From: Monmouth, Illinois
Beefing up the 10 bolt I know it's frowned upon, but I'm thinking of beefing up the 10 bolt a little. I figure, a beefed up 10 bolt should be able to handle the power levels that I'm expecting from my car in the near future. I'll be putting a cam in my car this spring, sometime. So, I'll just be looking at ~350rwhp. I don't think there's any need to upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9" at that power level. So, I've been looking at all the ways to beef up the stock rear. I've already got a MAC rear girdle laying around that will be put on when I do a gear install. I think I'm going with either Motive 3.73's, or 4.10's, with their Master install kit, since I found a site with the gears, and kit for $235. Then, I'm going to go with some Moser axles. I just want to clarify which axles I need. Since I don't have TCS, I have a 3-channel carrier, correct? So, I'd need these axles? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...134+4294839047
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (30)
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From: Monmouth, Illinois
Alright, thanks. My buddy also said something about getting C-clip eliminators. Would they really be all that beneficial? And also, from the looks of it on Jegs, it sounds like I won't be able to have ABS if I run the C-clip eliminators.
C clip eliminators have no effect on ABS.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Monmouth, Illinois
C clip eliminators have no effect on ABS.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
Whatever you want to do.
You're not likely going to break an axle, even a stock one.
If you like spending money and want to be extra extra cautious, get the moser axles and c clip eliminators.
It'll only be more wasted when you start breaking ring and pinions.
With the mods in your sig? It's going to be a long time before you break a stock axle.
You're not likely going to break an axle, even a stock one.
If you like spending money and want to be extra extra cautious, get the moser axles and c clip eliminators.
It'll only be more wasted when you start breaking ring and pinions.
With the mods in your sig? It's going to be a long time before you break a stock axle.
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Slap a T/A Cover on and call it good. I wouldn't waste too much money on your 10 bolt. If it goes it goes man and if it don't then keep adding power until it does 
Being you have a M6 you are more **** to snapping it so save up for a 9 inch..
Being you have a M6 you are more **** to snapping it so save up for a 9 inch.. LS1 Tech Stories
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I broke an axle right into a thousand pieces. I wouldn't put to much money into the stock 10 Bolt either. You are better off saving for a better setup. I have broken mine once and my friend has rebuilt his at least 4 times. They just are not able to handle the stresses. Also we are at over a mile high elevation and rearly see DA's under 7000ft. Point is I broke the stock axle without N2O so it was only about 300 actual RWHP. The corrected is 383RWHP. Save your money.......
I know it's frowned upon, but I'm thinking of beefing up the 10 bolt a little. I figure, a beefed up 10 bolt should be able to handle the power levels that I'm expecting from my car in the near future. I'll be putting a cam in my car this spring, sometime. So, I'll just be looking at ~350rwhp. I don't think there's any need to upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9" at that power level. So, I've been looking at all the ways to beef up the stock rear. I've already got a MAC rear girdle laying around that will be put on when I do a gear install. I think I'm going with either Motive 3.73's, or 4.10's, with their Master install kit, since I found a site with the gears, and kit for $235. Then, I'm going to go with some Moser axles. I just want to clarify which axles I need. Since I don't have TCS, I have a 3-channel carrier, correct? So, I'd need these axles? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...134+4294839047
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...osi-noise.html
Weird how theres no explaination what happened to the stengthened up 10 bolt with those retarded preload bars on it, it started making noise, then he's installing a 9 inch.
like this http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp i got the cover only so-far.axel tube brace,might not work but it looks good !!!!!!!!!!
I'll pay someone to put bushings inside the rod ends of those preload bars, bushings that reduce the size of the bolt down to 1/4"
I bet the 1/4" bolts won't break.
If those preload bars do anything, they bend the housing, they don't prevent it. I could see if the housing to body mount was 18" from the end they might help. But on an f -body the forward forces are at the LCA mounts, which are a few inches from the end.
I bet the 1/4" bolts won't break.
If those preload bars do anything, they bend the housing, they don't prevent it. I could see if the housing to body mount was 18" from the end they might help. But on an f -body the forward forces are at the LCA mounts, which are a few inches from the end.
Other than swapping some 3.73s in, I'm not touching the 10-bolt. Once it blows up then I have a good reason to get a 12-bolt and of course while that's happening I may as well get a built tranny, then I need to get a 383 stroker built to give the tranny and rear end enough power. 