10 bolts failure modes and making them work
02-26-2009, 09:53 AM
#1
10 bolts failure modes and making them work I know everyone is going to say 12 bolt or 9 inch and I agree except they are costly, take some HP and weigh more.
So I was wondering out of all the 10 bolt failures out there what pieces are failing and do they make better pieces. I have thought about doing a 9" myself but 3k is a big chunk considering I only want high 11's out of my car ever.
- Do you see many axle failures because I know Moser's will take care of that problem?
- Does the pin break and does anyone offer a billet piece?
- Welding the axle tubes may help and is just some labor
- Are the carrier/posi units POS? What does my 02 have in it? I know Auburn makes a unit and that may take the abuse unless their is a better unit?
- Are 3.73 and up ratios better or anyone offer a higher strength gearset? Who makes the best piece for a change-out?
- Crush sleeves.... any magic piece out there for this?
- Anyone make billet carrier caps?
- Then top it of with a cap support cover
I know all this depending on what is out there could be $1500 but that's half of a 9"
So I was wondering out of all the 10 bolt failures out there what pieces are failing and do they make better pieces. I have thought about doing a 9" myself but 3k is a big chunk considering I only want high 11's out of my car ever.
- Do you see many axle failures because I know Moser's will take care of that problem?
- Does the pin break and does anyone offer a billet piece?
- Welding the axle tubes may help and is just some labor
- Are the carrier/posi units POS? What does my 02 have in it? I know Auburn makes a unit and that may take the abuse unless their is a better unit?
- Are 3.73 and up ratios better or anyone offer a higher strength gearset? Who makes the best piece for a change-out?
- Crush sleeves.... any magic piece out there for this?
- Anyone make billet carrier caps?
- Then top it of with a cap support cover
I know all this depending on what is out there could be $1500 but that's half of a 9"
02-26-2009, 11:41 AM
#2
Well I think the question would be are you M6 or A4. If you are an A4 then building up the 10 bolt could be worth it. But if you are a manual I wouldn't waste the money I would just save for the big rear and even search around for a used one.
As far as what break I personally broke 1 posi unit in my 10 bolt when I was running 11.9-12.0 times. I watch a friend of mine snap axles twice in just a bolt on car. people break ring and pinions. All you are going to do building a 10 bolt up is just expose the weak spots.
Now I think if you run a 10 bolt and do no suspension upgrades upgrades like torque arm and stuff it will last but once you start setting up your suspension to hook then it will go pop.
As far as what break I personally broke 1 posi unit in my 10 bolt when I was running 11.9-12.0 times. I watch a friend of mine snap axles twice in just a bolt on car. people break ring and pinions. All you are going to do building a 10 bolt up is just expose the weak spots.
Now I think if you run a 10 bolt and do no suspension upgrades upgrades like torque arm and stuff it will last but once you start setting up your suspension to hook then it will go pop.
02-26-2009, 12:52 PM
#4
A4 car you may be ok with.
here's what you need:
Richmond gear... strong but maybe a bit of noise. second choice is Motive Performance.
replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer of some sort. I machine my own per rearend, but there are selective shim setups available.
Moser reaplacement axles... good enough for what you're doing in the 28 spline.
Eaton posi. hands down the strongest posi out there for the GM models. don't even bother with a locker, Auburn, or Torsen. also high quality bearings like Timken or Koyo USA are the good ones.
LPW rear girdle cover with brace kit installed.
ARP cap studs... with the studs and girdle cover the billet caps aren't worth messing with.
driveshaft. with the rearend mod'd you will break the weak stock aluminum shaft. the Strange 3 inch c/m shaft is the best bang for the buck.
i can get you setup with all the parts you need to do this. pm me for a quote.
here's what you need:
Richmond gear... strong but maybe a bit of noise. second choice is Motive Performance.
replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer of some sort. I machine my own per rearend, but there are selective shim setups available.
Moser reaplacement axles... good enough for what you're doing in the 28 spline.
Eaton posi. hands down the strongest posi out there for the GM models. don't even bother with a locker, Auburn, or Torsen. also high quality bearings like Timken or Koyo USA are the good ones.
LPW rear girdle cover with brace kit installed.
ARP cap studs... with the studs and girdle cover the billet caps aren't worth messing with.
driveshaft. with the rearend mod'd you will break the weak stock aluminum shaft. the Strange 3 inch c/m shaft is the best bang for the buck.
i can get you setup with all the parts you need to do this. pm me for a quote.
