01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

if its not your DD then just rebuild it. i invested about three hundred dollars in tools and rebuilt a buddy's that was failing and he got 4.10s, then pulled mine and rebuilt it with 3.73s, then just rebuilt another low mileage unit for a friend whose car was down bc of motor trouble and gave him 4.10s. so three rear ends so far @$100 bucks rebuild cost a piece. And honestly after a couple under your belt, you can do it with your eyes closed.

LCplmarine98

iTrader: (9)

Squealingtires, Do you have more info on how to fab up that rear end and exactly what all needs to go into it. I am interested and would like to see a write up on it. for the cost of materials its also much cheaper then buying a 12 bolt.

squealingtires

iTrader: (14)

Check out the link in my 1st post. There is a big writeup on it; everything you need to beef up your rear-end. Don't expect big axle (9", S60, 12bolt) strength out of it but do expect better than stock strength gains.

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

The main weakness on a 10 bolt is the ring gear. The best way to keep it alive is to run nothing steeper then a 3.73 gear. FWIW, i've cut plenty of 1.5-1.6 60fts on 3.42 gears and never had a single problem.

great421

iTrader: (1)

I purchased a set of Micronited (spelling may be off) ring and pinion gears, in addition to already having the thick diff cover and Strange Axles.

Prior to getting these new gears, I busted 4 sets of 4:10 gears - these updated gears (3:73's for my Turbo) have lasted over 20,000 miles of hard driving - ZERO Issues!

A strong 10 bolt can be made, for about 1/8th the cost of an F-body specific 12 bolt, or 9 inch - I'm quite happy with mine!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Umm...This isnt always the best or correct answer... Now I can be 99% positive this fellow is gonna use his F body to drag race, and if that is the case , then you are right..

But this isnt always the answer to give.. Because there are some of us out there, that want a 1- bolt, because we road race our cars or perhaps for other valid reasons...

I WISH there was a bulletproof 10 bolt...
lightweight, and no issues the 9" or 12 bolts give in road racing... wheelhop on decel, bad handling due to unsprung weight, etc...

eats less Hp than 12 bolt ot 9"

if there was a bulletproof 10 bolt, id be the first one to put my Money on it!!!

Unfortunately, The only thing that ive seen even come close these days is the MWC Fab9... Which I plan on investing in sometime later this year, possibly..

ToBiN!

iTrader: (1)

OP, I have a 10 bolt, killed it once or twice. These are the list of mods I researched to hold the 10 bolt together that were fairly cheap.

98, T/A, M6 ~320Hp N/a ~450Hp N2O

Last Nov I destroyed my Auburn Posi unit that was in the axle, so the items below are what I ended up putting into rebuilding it, stronger.

Welded axle tubes $0 (if you have a mig)
Mac Girdle $? (was on there when I bought the car)
Detroit TrueTrac differential $375 (Summitracing)
Axle bearings and seals $60 (Advance Auto)
Differential install kit (carrier bearings, shims, etc) ~$100 (Summitracing)
AMSOil 75-140w synthetic $60

I put my gears pretty close with little backlash so it whines, just a little when accelerating, otherwise its very quiet.

I've launched fairly hard on it with street tires and have been around multiple corners sideways without issue. Bout the only thing that I think will be next is when (yes, not "if" but "when" cause I feel pretty confident it will happen) the axles break when I have my stickys in the groove. I may have to lower my launch RPM to prevent wheel hop.

And when the axles break, its only a couple hundered for some Moser axles for it. Easy fix.

I too was not willing to drop $2k into a 12 bolt quite yet. As long as I keep it under $1k, I feel I am still doing good for a dd/street/strip car.

Not counting the gears (3:73's) because they were in there when I bought it, I am anticipating the axles to go next depending on how hard I launch.