No difference from 273 to 373
06-30-2009, 04:42 AM
#21
WOW I think...and I think the tune could be set to give you limited low end power hens your 60ft time. The guy who did the tune did he try to up sell you on anything telling you it would help. He could have given you a fucked up tune so you would come back and spend more money on him. You have to look at all avenues. The guy who did my build was trying like crazy trying to get me to sucker up and spend more money, I didn't. Got my car back and it sucked couldn't pull on a stock vette. Had a local guy look at the tune because it was pulling hard low and flattening out bad at top. The guy was trying to up sell me I didn't bite you know the local guy looked at it and the pric did the following;
Turned off my O2 sensors, couldnt compensate,
Turned off all my O2 coeds so once something happened it would be too ******* late
Set me lean.
He wanted me to ship my car back at my cost, after only a week after picking it up and tuning it. Telling me that what I didn't buy was the reason it was running bad.
**** him now he's name is dirt, she screams and I am spending more money and he ain't getting ****.
Turned off my O2 sensors, couldnt compensate,
Turned off all my O2 coeds so once something happened it would be too ******* late
Set me lean.
He wanted me to ship my car back at my cost, after only a week after picking it up and tuning it. Telling me that what I didn't buy was the reason it was running bad.
**** him now he's name is dirt, she screams and I am spending more money and he ain't getting ****.
06-30-2009, 01:14 PM
#23
Try the tune that is the first thing to look and the most basic. The after that if the tune is good then your going to have to break her down. What are the complete specs of all that you did to her. That should let us really appreciate the work and give you an idea of what or where your should be really knowing that every car is different and we are just giving you advice and an educated guess.
06-30-2009, 01:20 PM
#24
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Try the tune that is the first thing to look and the most basic. The after that if the tune is good then your going to have to break her down. What are the complete specs of all that you did to her. That should let us really appreciate the work and give you an idea of what or where your should be really knowing that every car is different and we are just giving you advice and an educated guess.
07-01-2009, 03:16 PM
#26
07-04-2009, 01:16 PM
#30
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That's funny, years ago I switched from a 283 to a 350 Chevy.. The 283 SBC motor was torquey as hell and layed more power down then the rebuilt pushrod iron block 350 SBC I later put in.. Both motors were perfectly dialed in too..
SOOO DISAPPOINTING AT THE TIME...Never did figure that one out???? I even installed a better intake manifold and better flowing edelbrock carb.. Nodda... It never did match up to the performance of my original 283.. Ended up selling my project with the new 350 motor installed.. I should have rebuilt that old 283 motor to it's same specs and kept everything the same at the time..
SOOO DISAPPOINTING AT THE TIME...Never did figure that one out???? I even installed a better intake manifold and better flowing edelbrock carb.. Nodda... It never did match up to the performance of my original 283.. Ended up selling my project with the new 350 motor installed.. I should have rebuilt that old 283 motor to it's same specs and kept everything the same at the time..
07-08-2009, 09:22 AM
#32
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Something is Def. Wrong.. i went from 2.73 to 3.73 and Holy Hell!... Before if i romped it from a dig i may get a little wheel spin.. Now even if im cruising slowly in first rolling then romp it she lets loose... Theres no way i could even think about launching at 2500 she would spin all over the place... You should have noticed a huge diffrence and no traction when you went from the 273 to 373.... Check you Tune!
07-08-2009, 02:44 PM
#33
Wow,everybody is quick to blame the tuner...LOL
It could very well be the tune but it could also be many other things.A bad sensor like a MAF,slipping tranny, anything really. To check the tune you just need someone to take it on the road with a scanner so they can check the timing,MAF and 02 voltage. That would be the first thing I would do.
It could very well be the tune but it could also be many other things.A bad sensor like a MAF,slipping tranny, anything really. To check the tune you just need someone to take it on the road with a scanner so they can check the timing,MAF and 02 voltage. That would be the first thing I would do.
07-09-2009, 03:38 PM
#34
06-21-2010, 07:37 PM
#36
Generally adding more gear to an A4 or any automatic really needs to be accompanied with a larger stall speed. If a stock geared car picks up roughly 4-7 tenths you will definately gain a bit more with the appropriate gear ratio designed for 1/4 mi. racing.....There are a ton of guys running extremely fast with 3.23s and 3.42s but they all have 3600-4400 stall speeds. I would definately not attack the tuner YET!
06-22-2010, 02:04 PM
#37
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My 98 Z28 (A4)would bark the tires lightly on the 1-2 shift and it was COMPLETELY STOCK! I had a Borla adjustable put on and I goot another PCM with a basic mailorder tune from EFIELCHEMY and this car rips the 1-2 shift now. I would think either you have an issue with the trans or the tune controlling the trans!
06-22-2010, 02:09 PM
#38
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If I stall up my car ( its a bone stock stall ) as high as it will go and then floor it, the car basically crawls and spins the tires. AND this is on a car with stock 3.23s...I can't imagine what 3.73s would be like.
06-22-2010, 04:55 PM
#40
also did you or your installer count the teeth on the gears to make sure they are 373s and not 273s in the wrong box because i went from 342s to 373s and i still feel a nice difference !!