Mods, I am not sure if there is a how to on here, so I took the liberty to make one.

*Disclaimer. I am not an expert and this was my first time attempting this. I am sure there are easier and better ways to do this, but this method worked for me. Sorry I did not get any pictures. Of course I work with 2 former Gm technicians and they helped me through this to make sure I didn't screw it up

Tools needed:
11mm wrench
34mm socket
Hammer
Chisel/punch
Flat head screw driver
Jack stands and a jack

* It is highly recommended to use an impact gun during this repair. Otherwise it can make tightening the pinion nut pretty difficult.


First thing you have to do is raise the vehicle up into the air. I used a lift at my work so that made the job that much easier. It can be done with jack stands but will make it more time consuming.

Once supported, take your 11mm wrench and undo the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the yoke. Remove the driveshaft to allow room for the impact gun.

What you need to do now is scribe into the nut, yoke and gear all in the same place to mark as a reference. I used a punch and hammer. I also counted the amount of threads the nut was on. You need to do this so when you put it back together it is at the same spot for torque reference.

Remove the nut with an impact gun using the 34mm socket. You may get some gear fluid onto you, so be prepared. You may have to tap on the backside of the yoke to get it to come out.

Once the yoke is out you will need a flathead screwdriver and either pry or chisel out the old pinion seal. Once the old one is out you can place the new one in. I used a hammer and hammered it in evenly on all sides on the outside edges of the seal. This process requires using the right amount of force. You don’t want to hammer to hard or too light.

Now you reverse your steps to reassemble everything.

Notes- I also took some emery cloth and cleaned up the inside of the yoke to make sure any burrs were removed.
Also when tightening the nut, if you go past your marks DO NOT BACK IT OUT! leave it where it is.

If I am missing anything on this, please feel free to post up.

 

Not a big fan of the way you did this. But hey, if it works, it works. How did you ensure not to crush the spacer in any more? Counting threads is great, but doesn't have anything to do with torque. It might work if you have a solid spacer.

 

I guess i didn't ensure, but went off the two GM techs with 15-20 years of experience each that have done that repair that way numerous times. My guess is, if we marked it and recorded everything before hand and when we finished and all 3 punch marks all lined up exactly the same and the exact same amount of threads are shown as before you start, how would it push it in further?

I am asking you. Maybe you can tell me.

 

I've been around GM tech's my whole life. Rearend work is the same as any other. Flat rate. Get it in and out as quick as possible. Just like in my line of work, the shortcuts become the accepted way in order to get **** out the door. No fault of the technician

1) the pinion nut should have self locking characteristics. This means that prevailing torque applies here. The amount of locking action will change every time you torque that nut. That is why you cant count the threads.
2) Now take into effect the fact that the pinion spacer is a crush washer in a stock setup, any additional torque on that crush washer can/will change the pinion depth by reducing its size.

Like I said before, your method may work fine. I prefer not to do it that way though.

 

I have also looked on another site and a manual and both talk about doing it the same way or very similar.

I looked at the nut and it didn't look any different to me than any other one, just bigger. I guess we will find out.

 

Last I knew, the crush sleeve had nothing at all to do with pinion depth, but it had everything to do with pinion bearing preload. Depth is controlled by the shims under the head of the pinion.

 

Maybe that's why I always blew up 10 bolts

 

You are correct....

 

Thats what ive been doing for years and I work for Mercedes Benz for over 15 years now, apparently it works!

 

that is why they blew up for ya

 

i did this on an '02 and it turns out the seal changed for certain years(i think just '02 but not sure). EVERY parts store had the same seal, but it wasn't exactly like the one that came off my car. i had to go to a dealership and they had the right one. just a warning to everybody, compare the old seal to the new one next to each other before putting it in or it will leak.

 

IIRC, mid or late 01 the seal changed.

 

If i was doing one in my Moser 12 bolt, would i go out and buy a pinion seal for a Ford 8.8?? (all the bearing part numbers were for a Ford 8.8 when i got them)

 

My 99' had the different seal (that wasn't available at parts stores).