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Old 03-03-2011 | 11:24 AM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by cam
I still build a batch or two per year
is it the sme design as on your signature? You weld right onto the cast? Would you mind sharing any pics ? Thanks cam!
Old 03-03-2011 | 11:40 AM
  #322  
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Although i never had a problem with any of my housings I have upgraded the method quite a bit since the one in my sig. Housing is fully welded yes no bolt on anything. I dont have any pics of the new designs but my TQA mount is now billet and its still all fabbed up in a jig and oven welded.

The real advantage I have is my welder/s are steam fitters with pipe cert. They are ticketed to do the cooling tubes for the Nuclear plants here amongst other things of that caliber. Every one of their welds gets X-rayed and there are no provisions for failure. One compromised weld and they pull your ticket its that stringent.

So welding these housings up is a walk in the park for them.
Old 03-03-2011 | 12:04 PM
  #323  
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Originally Posted by cam
Although i never had a problem with any of my housings I have upgraded the method quite a bit since the one in my sig. Housing is fully welded yes no bolt on anything. I dont have any pics of the new designs but my TQA mount is now billet and its still all fabbed up in a jig and oven welded.

The real advantage I have is my welder/s are steam fitters with pipe cert. They are ticketed to do the cooling tubes for the Nuclear plants here amongst other things of that caliber. Every one of their welds gets X-rayed and there are no provisions for failure. One compromised weld and they pull your ticket its that stringent.

So welding these housings up is a walk in the park for them.
very cool cam - i guess ill have to stick with my bolt on design and hope the overkill is good enough ! Dont have access to welders like that
Old 03-03-2011 | 02:27 PM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by SIC LSX
i have a stock axle im about to scrap. anyone need axle tubes cut off?
Too bad you are so far or I'd take you up on that offer. I've been considering the bolt-on mustang T/A route.
Old 04-25-2011 | 01:47 PM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by cam
Although i never had a problem with any of my housings I have upgraded the method quite a bit since the one in my sig. Housing is fully welded yes no bolt on anything. I dont have any pics of the new designs but my TQA mount is now billet and its still all fabbed up in a jig and oven welded.

The real advantage I have is my welder/s are steam fitters with pipe cert. They are ticketed to do the cooling tubes for the Nuclear plants here amongst other things of that caliber. Every one of their welds gets X-rayed and there are no provisions for failure. One compromised weld and they pull your ticket its that stringent.

So welding these housings up is a walk in the park for them.
Being in canada is shipping to the states killer on the rear? thinking maybe if you do just the empty housing and id fill it with my own stuff would save a lot on shipping with the weight
Old 04-27-2011 | 09:09 PM
  #326  
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I'm interested to know myself. My rear needs replaced and been thinking of going this route. I might just build my own. Cam pm me price shipped to 77571
Old 01-26-2012 | 05:22 AM
  #327  
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Wondering what were the part numbers for the mini setup; the tubing, bungs and rod ends. Thanks.
Old 02-13-2012 | 03:15 PM
  #328  
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I might have missed it but I don't see any info on one of the most important things....how did u align pinion angle and weld the perches correctly....with it all off the car?

Do you level the flattest part of the pumpkin or set it to -1 with and angle finder? and then level the tops of the perches with them just being leveled? or?

This is supposed to be the most important part of the job.


If you set the angle finder on the pinion then go to Zero. You then stabilized it to not move.

Then u take the angle finder off....attach the perches and put the angle on top of them to ZERO. (Basicaly level)

Then why did u do the LCA brackets to -15? Am I off and the process? I just want to make sure.

Last edited by License2Ill; 02-13-2012 at 03:34 PM.
Old 02-13-2012 | 03:40 PM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by License2Ill

This is supposed to be the most important part of the job.
It's been a while but if I remember I set the pinion angle to 0 and then welded the spring perches to a -1 as far as locating the correct pinion angle for the mini ladder bars I connected the lca to the car installed the springs sat the car to ride height. where than I set the pinion to a -2 and weled my minin ladder setup to the lca's with enough adjustment to go - or + 2 or 4 degrees. I would think anyone attempting this project could set up all the angles needed to finish the job or you really shouldn't be doing this!
Old 02-13-2012 | 03:44 PM
  #330  
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Edit I went back to page one. I said the pinion was set to 0 and the spring perches were set at 0 and the lca was set to -15 and yes I used a angle finder for all my angles
Old 02-13-2012 | 07:20 PM
  #331  
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ok cool where did u measure the LCA brackets from the backside of them or bottom?
also why 15*?
Old 02-13-2012 | 07:25 PM
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Backside and -15 was the angle of the bracket when the pinion angle was zero. If you miss the angle by a few degrees I don't think it would be the end of the world,but would effect the wheel center so be careful!
Old 02-16-2012 | 10:39 AM
  #333  
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Has anyone taken a look at the 8.8 out of the Crown Vic outside of the axle tube diameter? That Watt's link mount on upper pinion area of the housing might be a great area to tie into with a T/A mount.
Old 02-16-2012 | 10:48 AM
  #334  
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Originally Posted by Mr.L88
Has anyone taken a look at the 8.8 out of the Crown Vic outside of the axle tube diameter? That Watt's link mount on upper pinion area of the housing might be a great area to tie into with a T/A mount.
I had thought about that after seeing one too.
Old 02-20-2012 | 11:09 AM
  #335  
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Originally Posted by Mr.L88
Has anyone taken a look at the 8.8 out of the Crown Vic outside of the axle tube diameter? That Watt's link mount on upper pinion area of the housing might be a great area to tie into with a T/A mount.
I am cutting about a CV rear now. Not much to share as it is just in the begining stages. I will probably make a build post once I can get back to it. Trying to make an intake to mount a M122 blower on there now. Taking lots of time putting the engine in and out.
Old 02-20-2012 | 03:34 PM
  #336  
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I did not see if anyone corrected this, but Thunderbirds, lincoln markviii havwe the same rear as the mustang with exception as typically you can find 5 lug axles in the mustangs.

I may try this at some point, seems like it might be fun lol.
Old 02-20-2012 | 08:31 PM
  #337  
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^^^^and those cars named have eyelets on the top for upper control arms, they must be cut to avoid hitting the gas tank when the suspension quenches.......
Old 07-30-2012 | 01:55 AM
  #338  
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So did this setup ever get tested at the track or what? I hate when someone comes up with something interesting like this and theres 20 some pages to read and never finishes with results.
Old 08-04-2012 | 10:35 PM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by wannaB tuner
So did this setup ever get tested at the track or what? I hate when someone comes up with something interesting like this and theres 20 some pages to read and never finishes with results.
This setup went 1.50 60ft! I sold it to a member on here by the name fasterthanyou and as far as I know he is still beating on it
Old 08-05-2012 | 05:09 PM
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What made u sell it? Is it worth doing or just go with different setup? I thought I read that others tried this setup but had real bad wheel shake or something?


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