8.8 Build
08-08-2009, 07:29 PM
#21
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well unfortunately our track has closed down from what i heard maybe for the rest of the year 
and i am fixing to start working on my heads and cam setup so maybe late this fall or next spring. Its more of a weekend warrior anyways but i want to be able to beat on it at the track to 
and i am fixing to start working on my heads and cam setup so maybe late this fall or next spring. Its more of a weekend warrior anyways but i want to be able to beat on it at the track to 
08-08-2009, 07:43 PM
#22
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The brackets were made of 1/4 mild steel bought at any welding supply with a 1/2 hole drilled in them or you can just buy axle brackets from summit.
Onto the lenght of the rear is 61" from rotor hat to rotor hat that's the very most outside measurment witch is 4" narrower than a stock 10 bolt
08-08-2009, 07:59 PM
#23
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I think you have started something. If that rear end can hold up at the track i bet you will have alot of people asking you for help in building theirs. What kind of power you think that rear end can handle?
08-08-2009, 08:20 PM
#24
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I would think it would hold up to a heads and cam six speed and a lot more on a auto car. The ladder bar dont put as much stress on the center setion like the torque arm mount does so i think its already stronger from that point there are a bunch of 10 second car on these rears as for mine i will be a heads and cam with a 100 shot so we will see
08-08-2009, 08:28 PM
#25
there have been many 9 second stangs sporting this rear it has proved itself on many occasions... so has the 8.5" GM rear 73-81 iam sure this rear will be with you a long time however i would reccomend getting a larger splined set of axles,locker and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin
08-08-2009, 08:35 PM
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there have been many 9 second stangs sporting this rear it has proved itself on many occasions... so has the 8.5" GM rear 73-81 iam sure this rear will be with you a long time however i would reccomend getting a larger splined set of axles,locker and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin
i think it will hold up for some time if not time to upgrade but hell for the cost i can afford to upgrade but i will say that i have already did some 4500 to 5000 clutch dumps on the street with 275 m/t
08-09-2009, 08:29 PM
#28
holy **** man that is awesome and you even gave measurements for everyone to see, thats great but now you will have sponsors theiving the idea and making there own for hell of a lot of cash....lol
either way thats awesome
how much is the rearend narrowed on the axles???
either way thats awesome
how much is the rearend narrowed on the axles???
08-09-2009, 08:42 PM
#29
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holy **** man that is awesome and you even gave measurements for everyone to see, thats great but now you will have sponsors theiving the idea and making there own for hell of a lot of cash....lol
either way thats awesome
how much is the rearend narrowed on the axles???
either way thats awesome
how much is the rearend narrowed on the axles???
08-10-2009, 06:58 PM
#30
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Would this mean its the same width as a thirdgen differential?
Using a 2" spacer on each side would cure the problem?
Thanks! Ive been racking my brain constantly on a way to get a 8.8 into my car, since ive got almost 2500hrs worth of welding experience (at 18 :o haha) but not the cash to get a 12 bolt or 9".
think this is just the ticket!!
08-10-2009, 07:16 PM
#31
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So its 2" narrower on each side?
Would this mean its the same width as a thirdgen differential?
Using a 2" spacer on each side would cure the problem?
Thanks! Ive been racking my brain constantly on a way to get a 8.8 into my car, since ive got almost 2500hrs worth of welding experience (at 18 :o haha) but not the cash to get a 12 bolt or 9".
think this is just the ticket!!
Would this mean its the same width as a thirdgen differential?
Using a 2" spacer on each side would cure the problem?
Thanks! Ive been racking my brain constantly on a way to get a 8.8 into my car, since ive got almost 2500hrs worth of welding experience (at 18 :o haha) but not the cash to get a 12 bolt or 9".
think this is just the ticket!!
08-11-2009, 12:51 AM
#32
I just checked out that G-force link and it looks like you pretty much made the exact same set-up for cheap!
I noticed you welded to the factory LCA's. Does the ladder bar set-up put more or less stress on the LCA's? If it puts less stress on them then I guess the factory LCA's will be just fine. I have very little understanding of the Fbody suspension geometry but it would seem to me that it would put alot more stress and torsion on them. Am I right?
Second, why couldn't you just weld a solid piece of steel from the LCA's to the rear instead of using the rod-ended upper control arms? I'm assuming its because the LCA's still flex even with this set-up?
Third, how did you decide where to place your upper control arm mounting point on the LCA? It looks like you could of put it further up or down on the LCA. Does the mounting point matter or is there a relation to the mounting point and the amount of stress on the LCA and axle tube?
Fourth, does the ladderbar neglect the need for a rear swaybar or would no rear swaybar have the same effect regardless of if you had a ladderbar or tq. arm set-up?
Man, sometimes I wish I would have become an engineer, lol.
Finally, it says the ladderbar conversion gives a better ride and less noise/vibration in addition to putting more power to the wheels. You were probably paying closer attention to other things but did it appear to be better, worse, the same? Sorry for all the questions. This thread and the ladderbar conversion has me very intrigued. Between the lighter 8.8, no rear swaybar, and no torque arm, it looks like you lost some weight in areas where most people don't even consider it to be an option.
I noticed you welded to the factory LCA's. Does the ladder bar set-up put more or less stress on the LCA's? If it puts less stress on them then I guess the factory LCA's will be just fine. I have very little understanding of the Fbody suspension geometry but it would seem to me that it would put alot more stress and torsion on them. Am I right?
Second, why couldn't you just weld a solid piece of steel from the LCA's to the rear instead of using the rod-ended upper control arms? I'm assuming its because the LCA's still flex even with this set-up?
Third, how did you decide where to place your upper control arm mounting point on the LCA? It looks like you could of put it further up or down on the LCA. Does the mounting point matter or is there a relation to the mounting point and the amount of stress on the LCA and axle tube?
Fourth, does the ladderbar neglect the need for a rear swaybar or would no rear swaybar have the same effect regardless of if you had a ladderbar or tq. arm set-up?
Man, sometimes I wish I would have become an engineer, lol.
Finally, it says the ladderbar conversion gives a better ride and less noise/vibration in addition to putting more power to the wheels. You were probably paying closer attention to other things but did it appear to be better, worse, the same? Sorry for all the questions. This thread and the ladderbar conversion has me very intrigued. Between the lighter 8.8, no rear swaybar, and no torque arm, it looks like you lost some weight in areas where most people don't even consider it to be an option.
08-11-2009, 02:53 AM
#33
I just checked out that G-force link and it looks like you pretty much made the exact same set-up for cheap!
I noticed you welded to the factory LCA's. Does the ladder bar set-up put more or less stress on the LCA's? If it puts less stress on them then I guess the factory LCA's will be just fine. I have very little understanding of the Fbody suspension geometry but it would seem to me that it would put alot more stress and torsion on them. Am I right?
Second, why couldn't you just weld a solid piece of steel from the LCA's to the rear instead of using the rod-ended upper control arms? I'm assuming its because the LCA's still flex even with this set-up?
Third, how did you decide where to place your upper control arm mounting point on the LCA? It looks like you could of put it further up or down on the LCA. Does the mounting point matter or is there a relation to the mounting point and the amount of stress on the LCA and axle tube?
Fourth, does the ladderbar neglect the need for a rear swaybar or would no rear swaybar have the same effect regardless of if you had a ladderbar or tq. arm set-up?
Man, sometimes I wish I would have become an engineer, lol.
Finally, it says the ladderbar conversion gives a better ride and less noise/vibration in addition to putting more power to the wheels. You were probably paying closer attention to other things but did it appear to be better, worse, the same? Sorry for all the questions. This thread and the ladderbar conversion has me very intrigued. Between the lighter 8.8, no rear swaybar, and no torque arm, it looks like you lost some weight in areas where most people don't even consider it to be an option.
I noticed you welded to the factory LCA's. Does the ladder bar set-up put more or less stress on the LCA's? If it puts less stress on them then I guess the factory LCA's will be just fine. I have very little understanding of the Fbody suspension geometry but it would seem to me that it would put alot more stress and torsion on them. Am I right?
Second, why couldn't you just weld a solid piece of steel from the LCA's to the rear instead of using the rod-ended upper control arms? I'm assuming its because the LCA's still flex even with this set-up?
Third, how did you decide where to place your upper control arm mounting point on the LCA? It looks like you could of put it further up or down on the LCA. Does the mounting point matter or is there a relation to the mounting point and the amount of stress on the LCA and axle tube?
Fourth, does the ladderbar neglect the need for a rear swaybar or would no rear swaybar have the same effect regardless of if you had a ladderbar or tq. arm set-up?
Man, sometimes I wish I would have become an engineer, lol.
Finally, it says the ladderbar conversion gives a better ride and less noise/vibration in addition to putting more power to the wheels. You were probably paying closer attention to other things but did it appear to be better, worse, the same? Sorry for all the questions. This thread and the ladderbar conversion has me very intrigued. Between the lighter 8.8, no rear swaybar, and no torque arm, it looks like you lost some weight in areas where most people don't even consider it to be an option.
2nd question is that you need the upper control arm part that is threaded to adjust the pinion angle of the rearend, w/o that the suspesion/pinion angle will be all off and thats bad.
The 3rd question I dont know to much about but I would say due to the fact of clearance issues near the frame. Or its the only threaded rod he had so you cant put it up to high because it will never reach the brackets.
4th question would be you can still run a sway bar if you like or not. ITs all preference most cars still run them but if your doing that you might as well just get a anti rollbar installed. imo
08-11-2009, 11:15 AM
#34
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damn id like to see this in person. where in texas are you located? im a big mustang guy, and finding fully setup 8.8s with lockers/gear/axle would be super easy for me, and a hell of alot cheaper then ordering a moser or strange axle.
08-11-2009, 12:07 PM
#35
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YOUr 1st questin is yes it will put more of a load on the STOCK lca but a aftermarket NO it wont be so stressful, so you will need new lcas.
2nd question is that you need the upper control arm part that is threaded to adjust the pinion angle of the rearend, w/o that the suspesion/pinion angle will be all off and thats bad.
The 3rd question I dont know to much about but I would say due to the fact of clearance issues near the frame. Or its the only threaded rod he had so you cant put it up to high because it will never reach the brackets.
4th question would be you can still run a sway bar if you like or not. ITs all preference most cars still run them but if your doing that you might as well just get a anti rollbar installed. imo
2nd question is that you need the upper control arm part that is threaded to adjust the pinion angle of the rearend, w/o that the suspesion/pinion angle will be all off and thats bad.
The 3rd question I dont know to much about but I would say due to the fact of clearance issues near the frame. Or its the only threaded rod he had so you cant put it up to high because it will never reach the brackets.
4th question would be you can still run a sway bar if you like or not. ITs all preference most cars still run them but if your doing that you might as well just get a anti rollbar installed. imo
On the rod ends i made, i could have made them any length but i think keeping them higher on the lca helps weight transfer. For the distance from the axle i located them to where they gave good clearance for the body not to make contact with them. As far as the ride i will say that it's pretty good
08-11-2009, 01:32 PM
#37
Thanks for taking the plundge LOL I have been wanting to get a rear end for some time, I'm sick of my 10 bolt screaming at me when I drive it LOL. And the cost of the aftermarket rears is just outragous. I have a couple of buddies that are big mustang guys and can probably get an 8.8 setup with posi and gears for $150 or so. Then I'll just get axles in the mustang bolt pattern to make the brakes easier and run wheels spacer/adapters until I can afford to get new wheels. I also have a spare 10 bolt with all of the brackets that I can use so I don't even need to pull the rear out of my car.
But a couple of questions, you said that you have a 93 and pervious rear with 94 axles in it. I thought that the 94s were wider than the older ones. And where did you get the DOM tubing with the sleeves for the rod ends?
But thanks for posting pics and measurements, I have everything saved and will be starting mine in a few weeks. The only thing I'm worried about is the added stress on the LCAs and blowing out bushings or even bending the arms.
But a couple of questions, you said that you have a 93 and pervious rear with 94 axles in it. I thought that the 94s were wider than the older ones. And where did you get the DOM tubing with the sleeves for the rod ends?
But thanks for posting pics and measurements, I have everything saved and will be starting mine in a few weeks. The only thing I'm worried about is the added stress on the LCAs and blowing out bushings or even bending the arms.
08-11-2009, 05:43 PM
#39
Couple more questions...
What are the things for that are in the bottom of the pic?
I saw in another post that the rear that you used is out of a 94 cobra, I thought that the 94s were wider than the 93s and older. Then I saw that you thought that the only difference was the axles, but can you verify that? I'm going to look too, but I need to find out before I drop some cash for a rear that may be too narrow.
Thanks in advance
What are the things for that are in the bottom of the pic?
I saw in another post that the rear that you used is out of a 94 cobra, I thought that the 94s were wider than the 93s and older. Then I saw that you thought that the only difference was the axles, but can you verify that? I'm going to look too, but I need to find out before I drop some cash for a rear that may be too narrow.
Thanks in advance
08-11-2009, 06:00 PM
#40
Ok I found this:
So basically I can use a fox body rear axle and just use 94-98 axle bearings and axles right? And then get disk brakes for a 94-98 cobra and cobra calipers and everything should work correctly??
79-98 axle housings are all the same on Mustangs, but the flange ont he end is whats different from the 79-93 to the 94-98, the flange adjsuts for the longer axles. The 99+ mustang axle housings are actually longer. We tried putting 99+ axles in a 79-98 housing, it won't work. The taper ont he axle doesn't sit ont he bearing properly and will leak and the axle will have play from side to side.