8.8 Build
08-12-2009, 07:48 PM
#61
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (106)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastland,Texas
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know of a lot of people that spend money on the best stuff money can buy and there car still doesnt perform they way it should 
Ill take my $600 rear over a $3000 rear any day
Ill take my $600 rear over a $3000 rear any day 
08-12-2009, 09:31 PM
#64
this type of set up gives you a very short instant center. it will give you lots of anti-squat meaning the body will separate from the rear at launch. this is good to an extent because what it is actually doing is forcing the tires into the ground. it will hit the tires hard. maybe too hard. the harder you hit the tires the better it will hook but also the faster it will unload. you most likely will not need a sway bar with this set up because it will not allow body roll similar to a regular ladder bar. the same set up can also be found in some stock eliminator cars called pete z bars. do a search for pete z bars and you will find lots of people running these and how they like them.
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
08-12-2009, 09:45 PM
#65
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (106)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastland,Texas
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this type of set up gives you a very short instant center. it will give you lots of anti-squat meaning the body will separate from the rear at launch. this is good to an extent because what it is actually doing is forcing the tires into the ground. it will hit the tires hard. maybe too hard. the harder you hit the tires the better it will hook but also the faster it will unload. you most likely will not need a sway bar with this set up because it will not allow body roll similar to a regular ladder bar. the same set up can also be found in some stock eliminator cars called pete z bars. do a search for pete z bars and you will find lots of people running these and how they like them.
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
08-12-2009, 11:14 PM
#66
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick question here,
what do you think of the streetability of this setup? Daily drivable?
Can you run sway bar on for the street, and take it off for the track?
what do you think of the streetability of this setup? Daily drivable?
Can you run sway bar on for the street, and take it off for the track?
08-13-2009, 11:25 AM
#67
"I honed out the bolt holes a little larger on rotors to accept the 5x4 3/4 pattern"
98silver, did you order 98 mustang axles from Moser with the 5x4-3/4 bolt pattern? I just caught that statement in your first post, I just assumed you were running 5x4-1/2 wheels.
98silver, did you order 98 mustang axles from Moser with the 5x4-3/4 bolt pattern? I just caught that statement in your first post, I just assumed you were running 5x4-1/2 wheels.
08-13-2009, 11:36 AM
#68
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (106)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastland,Texas
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes i orderd 94-98 mustang axles from moser in 5x4-3/4 i am running chevy bolt pattern!
Last edited by 98silvertacrbn; 08-13-2009 at 11:42 AM.
08-13-2009, 11:39 AM
#69
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (106)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastland,Texas
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-13-2009, 02:32 PM
#70
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Humble Tx
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
watch ur axle side ujoint closely, if it gets too much anti squat it will blow your ujoint up. i had this problem with one of my offroad trucks. it just seems like that mini ladder bar setup is going to put a ton of stress on your torque box area and tear up bushings with all of the force being concentrated there with no torque arm. that being said, i am looking for a cheapo 8.8 to do this exact mod. i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.
i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.
08-13-2009, 03:09 PM
#71
watch ur axle side ujoint closely, if it gets too much anti squat it will blow your ujoint up. i had this problem with one of my offroad trucks. it just seems like that mini ladder bar setup is going to put a ton of stress on your torque box area and tear up bushings with all of the force being concentrated there with no torque arm. that being said, i am looking for a cheapo 8.8 to do this exact mod. i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.
i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.With that said I still plan on doing what the OP did to my car, but I will be running the mustang bolt pattern since I plan on getting different wheels and will be running wider wheels on the rear and won't rotate them anyway. Plus it will make brake swaps easier and if I ever sell the car the new owner would have one less thing to worry about.
08-13-2009, 04:57 PM
#72
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Humble Tx
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to an extent, yes. i have welded in subframes but the ''bucket'' where the control arm goes in still looks like a definite weakpoint..ESPECIALLY if hes launching hard and hooking on some slicks. IMO, a reinforced bucket with plate steel would be ideal, perhaps overkill but easy and cheap, a whole lot cheaper then trying to repair a torn out torque box.
08-13-2009, 09:10 PM
#73
to an extent, yes. i have welded in subframes but the ''bucket'' where the control arm goes in still looks like a definite weakpoint..ESPECIALLY if hes launching hard and hooking on some slicks. IMO, a reinforced bucket with plate steel would be ideal, perhaps overkill but easy and cheap, a whole lot cheaper then trying to repair a torn out torque box.
08-13-2009, 10:42 PM
#76
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (106)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastland,Texas
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh I agree 100% overkill is always better than having something fix something because you "cheaped out" I'm personally not worried about it, I'm not planning on running a sticky tire, or running at the track alot but the OP should probably consider it with the mods hes got planned, that car will get it hard once its complete. It should be a good setup though IMO for the type of driving that I do with my car and what most other people do. But I'm still planning weld in SFCs and preobably beefing up the torque boxes as well
08-14-2009, 11:51 AM
#79
Does it hook better than the TA setup? I saw that you have a stock TA so it will be different than my car, but mine wants to hook, but with a 275/40 street tire it just won't.