10 bolt gear pattern check
Why don't you just get a depth mic and measure it to what the manufactor says to set it at instead of assy and disassy more than once? And if you put your pinion gear in a lathe and lightly sand it where the bearing goes on, it will save you $25 for a bearing and be a more acurate reading (using the bearing at is going to be in the rear). OH, this makes the bearing slide off and on without a press or destroying and bearing.
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Staging Lane
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
I did use a set up bearing to make all the changes easier as you describe.
I have not used the pinion depth tool. Have you used it with success? I was giving the purchase some thought for 100 bucks it would save TIME.
I have not used the pinion depth tool. Have you used it with success? I was giving the purchase some thought for 100 bucks it would save TIME.
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Staging Lane
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
I started with a 0.020" pinion shim. What did you think of that pattern. I didn't think it looked that good. See the first set of photos.
I use a depth mic I borrow from work. Set it up per manufactor spec's and have never had a problem or a whine. And they always have a good pattern. $100 would save a lot of time. and then you can charge your buddies $150 to do their rears and pay yourself back in one rearend setup. I don't us a set up bearing, I use the bearing that is going to be run in the car. I polish the pinion so that it slides on and off with ease. Don't forget that you need about .010 preload on the carrier. And I use a dial indicator to check the back lash on this.
Call Summit and ask them who really makes those gears. Some gears such as the ones from AAM, use a .002" - .006" backlash. Others use a wider all the way up to .016".
Make damn sure you have the correct preload on the pinion or the readings will be off. Same with the main cap torque.
You are going to have to try all different types of combinations till something looks right. The way gears work, the pattern can wake up with as little as .003" of shim once you hit the sweet spot. If you overshoot it, it will go to Hell.
10 bolts are the worst gears to set up flat out period. They are a PITA becuase of the assembly and disassembly required to find the right setup.
Put the .020" back in and increase the backlash to .012" and get the patterns. I am thinking that .020" may be close but now it needs some BL. Make sure to thin the compound out, the patterns are hard to really see in the pics you have posted.
Make damn sure you have the correct preload on the pinion or the readings will be off. Same with the main cap torque.
You are going to have to try all different types of combinations till something looks right. The way gears work, the pattern can wake up with as little as .003" of shim once you hit the sweet spot. If you overshoot it, it will go to Hell.
10 bolts are the worst gears to set up flat out period. They are a PITA becuase of the assembly and disassembly required to find the right setup.
Put the .020" back in and increase the backlash to .012" and get the patterns. I am thinking that .020" may be close but now it needs some BL. Make sure to thin the compound out, the patterns are hard to really see in the pics you have posted.
Last edited by wrd1972; Nov 24, 2009 at 11:33 AM.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Doesnt that defeat the purpose of a press fit bearing. What keeps the bearing from turning on the pinion after a few years/miles or whatever?
Never had the problem. I would imagine that the crush sleeve has enough preload to keep it from spinning. It's just the same as the front bearing, just slips on. What keep it from spining? The yoke you say, well the face of the pinion gear also helps keep the rear from spining.
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Staging Lane
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
I am going to get the pinion depth tool to give me the right starting point and I can do fine adjustment from there. The pinion was marked with 0.008" BL setting from the factory.
I am going to pick this project back up in the spring. Snow will be on us soon in Upstate new york and I need to get to other projects.
Thanks for the input it has been helpful.
My take away is that I need a Ford 9".
I set up a 68 carprice 8.2 ring and pinion and got it right without much difficulty.
This 10 bolt is a PITA as you said. I have an M6 to rebuild this spring so I will get the whole driveline then. I have good notes and advise from you guys. thanks
and the f-body struggle with the 10 bolt continues.
I am going to pick this project back up in the spring. Snow will be on us soon in Upstate new york and I need to get to other projects.
Thanks for the input it has been helpful.
My take away is that I need a Ford 9".
I set up a 68 carprice 8.2 ring and pinion and got it right without much difficulty.
This 10 bolt is a PITA as you said. I have an M6 to rebuild this spring so I will get the whole driveline then. I have good notes and advise from you guys. thanks
and the f-body struggle with the 10 bolt continues.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 57
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Goodlettsville, TN
Why don't you just get a depth mic and measure it to what the manufactor says to set it at instead of assy and disassy more than once? And if you put your pinion gear in a lathe and lightly sand it where the bearing goes on, it will save you $25 for a bearing and be a more acurate reading (using the bearing at is going to be in the rear). OH, this makes the bearing slide off and on without a press or destroying and bearing.
Whistlen6 found this....
http://ratech.stores.yahoo.net/noname4.html
Just curious to what you used.
Just use a depth mic from work that they let me borrow. I built a plate that bolts across the main caps b/c the mic isn't that long. When I check it, it do it once and then flip the plate incase it has warpage then take an average of the two. I had it (the plate) surface ground so there is only about .0005 warpage on it. I have a machinist job at NASA in Houston so this stuff is easy for me.
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Staging Lane
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PR...6/?image=large
this is the other depth gauge. I may just get it instead of the ratech one listed above that is only specific to one gear set.
this is the other depth gauge. I may just get it instead of the ratech one listed above that is only specific to one gear set.
Here are the directions for that tool.
http://www.streetperformance.com/mis...0719/66516.pdf
Looks easy to use. Just make sure you check the tool setup more than once. And when you check the pinion depth, make sure you have the proper preload on it. I usually do this without the crush sleeve-so you don't waste it, and then once it is set, take it apart and put the crush sleeve in. Then recheck everything. With new bearings and seals you should need about 25 inch pounds of force to rotate it.
http://www.streetperformance.com/mis...0719/66516.pdf
Looks easy to use. Just make sure you check the tool setup more than once. And when you check the pinion depth, make sure you have the proper preload on it. I usually do this without the crush sleeve-so you don't waste it, and then once it is set, take it apart and put the crush sleeve in. Then recheck everything. With new bearings and seals you should need about 25 inch pounds of force to rotate it.
9" is so easy to setup it will blow your mind. Pinion shim changes take only a minute or two and so do backlash adjustments. Plus you can set the gear caes up on the bench and set the gears. None of the PITA stuff like every other rear end around.
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Staging Lane
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From: Goodlettsville, TN
I want to get a 408-LQ4 in the mix next year that is going to eat up some cash and a 10 bolt. so I need to juggle the funds.