Strong 10-bolt????
Yea ur all right. I guess ill be saving for a 12 bolt later. I just didnt know if there was anything that help save it for a while cause i had seen a support by moser that was supposed to strengthen the 10 bolt and I didnt know if there was anything else small that i could do thanks for the help though
new 12 bolt is about 2000-2500 depending on options and installing yourself. My est on price is assuming help (see: for free) will be provided by someone or the person who is building it has prev exp, skill, and tools to do the work themselves.
My 1 to 1.2k est is most likely a good low ball. If I have some time I'd price the parts out and see if I were to rebuild it correctly and then fab up the pieces etc etc.
Edit:
IMO IF I were to do this project, I would not use worn parts. The main issue is strength and reliability.
Sure, you can get a Junk Yard or used Rear, thats fine but I am still putting fresh guts in it, cleaning it up, fabbing the needed brackets and then paint and finish. ALSO I will be upgrading this like the axles, studs, and rear girdle.
Here is the local Mustang source I have in CT, they tend to be very competitive with Summit/Jegs.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/LM_...Site/00196.htm
and go through, down to pg 202
IMO you should put on C clip Eliminators, so after upgrading the gear/pinion and axles (5 lug), your spending money on wheel studs and Girdles (diff cover), posi unit (or spool), fluids, and gaskets.
Thats called doing the job right, the 1st time.
My 1 to 1.2k est is most likely a good low ball. If I have some time I'd price the parts out and see if I were to rebuild it correctly and then fab up the pieces etc etc.
Edit:
IMO IF I were to do this project, I would not use worn parts. The main issue is strength and reliability.
Sure, you can get a Junk Yard or used Rear, thats fine but I am still putting fresh guts in it, cleaning it up, fabbing the needed brackets and then paint and finish. ALSO I will be upgrading this like the axles, studs, and rear girdle.
Here is the local Mustang source I have in CT, they tend to be very competitive with Summit/Jegs.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/LM_...Site/00196.htm
and go through, down to pg 202
IMO you should put on C clip Eliminators, so after upgrading the gear/pinion and axles (5 lug), your spending money on wheel studs and Girdles (diff cover), posi unit (or spool), fluids, and gaskets.
Thats called doing the job right, the 1st time.
It seems to me that the budget builders are willing to run used parts to save money, IDK.
The person with the 8.8 thread apparently has a welder, jigs, and lots of time to fabricate, which many do not have. Not sure on the labor costs if you took his parts to a welder/fabricator, since labor costs can add up quickly.
Not my thread, just trying to understand the logic.
GM High Tech Performance magazine had an article a while ago about beefing up a 10 bolt. They dumped like 1300 bucks into it and it was still fairly weak. They recommended to just save up for a 12 bolt or a 9 inch. I found a 12 bolt pretty cheap on here.
If you are buying a 12 bolt new, buy a strange. Both me and a friend of mine have moser 12 bolts and moser did a terrible job setting up all the tolerances on both rear ends, causing both to whine a lot. I talked to a rep from moser at an NHRA event and he fed me all this bs on how every rear end makes noise and that richmonds make noise even more and how the sound has nowhere to go except for inside the cabin. I had to have a friend of mine that's been setting up rear ends for 20 years fix it for me. I ended up having to buy a set of richmond gears for it becuase the wear pattern on the gears were so bad. Now my rear end is quiet, proving the myths wrong that a. all richmond gears whine, and b. all rear ends make noise.
If you are buying a 12 bolt new, buy a strange. Both me and a friend of mine have moser 12 bolts and moser did a terrible job setting up all the tolerances on both rear ends, causing both to whine a lot. I talked to a rep from moser at an NHRA event and he fed me all this bs on how every rear end makes noise and that richmonds make noise even more and how the sound has nowhere to go except for inside the cabin. I had to have a friend of mine that's been setting up rear ends for 20 years fix it for me. I ended up having to buy a set of richmond gears for it becuase the wear pattern on the gears were so bad. Now my rear end is quiet, proving the myths wrong that a. all richmond gears whine, and b. all rear ends make noise.
Yea i have the tools and ability to do the fabrication of an 8.8 just not the time ill save up for a strange 12 bolt and put that in eventually when the 10 breaks thanks for all the help tho
It is called Force.
The Force that is applied at the moment of launch can break parts and m6 cars do it harder then auto cars.
If the person is to do all that, why not buy a new rear to start? Most prices I have seen run close to $2500 with all the add-ons, except for a Midwest Fab, which seems to run a bit more.
It seems to me that the budget builders are willing to run used parts to save money, IDK.
The person with the 8.8 thread apparently has a welder, jigs, and lots of time to fabricate, which many do not have. Not sure on the labor costs if you took his parts to a welder/fabricator, since labor costs can add up quickly.
Not my thread, just trying to understand the logic.
It seems to me that the budget builders are willing to run used parts to save money, IDK.
The person with the 8.8 thread apparently has a welder, jigs, and lots of time to fabricate, which many do not have. Not sure on the labor costs if you took his parts to a welder/fabricator, since labor costs can add up quickly.
Not my thread, just trying to understand the logic.
Poor vs. Budget builder.
People, IF they could, would run a 10 bolt all day as it is lighter and causes less loss to the tire, but for the only issue called reliability, people are forced to upgrade. Some cannot afford the big nut, while others want to "cheap" out and rig up something to "work" in the place of the 12 bolt. I am sure people out there have taken 8.2" 10 bolts (which are a good rear) and have fabbed them up since the spent a little on the inital investment. It all depends if you have the tools, and know-how to fab it not only correctly but measured correctly.
It is a skill that most do no have.
IMO people do not take into consideration of the cost of welding equipment and that should be factored into a job and over the long run, the cost becomes non exsistant but if you do only 2-3 jobs in 10 years.... then its a "cost"
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
on another note,when it comes down to it,i think the 8.8 is a great rear end and the wise choice for someone that wants to go street/track,i dont want to drive around with a 9 inch all the time,it would seal the deal and make my car track only
