Strong 10-bolt????
I'd just save up for a Moser, Strange or Midwest rearend. Thats what I'm doing. Money spent put into the stock 10 bolt could have been a nice start towards a stronger rear. It would really suck to have put money into the stock 10 bolt thinking it was "stronger" and then it jumps ship.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Omahaish. Nebraska.
Trying to do anything to a 10 bolt outside of gear swaps are pointless. It'll still break. When mine lets go, it's moser time. Asian lsx is right, just put away money for a stronger rear.
No this is NOT a viable option for 99% of us out there. Those with the skill and the tools, yes it is.
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Plus the cost of new wheels (stockers won't fit on a narrower axle setup), price of equipment if you do the work yourself (a good welder is at least $500), and/or many hours of a custom fabricator doing brackets, and lets not forget he got rid of the tq. arm for a ladder bar setup.
No this is NOT a viable option for 99% of us out there. Those with the skill and the tools, yes it is.
No this is NOT a viable option for 99% of us out there. Those with the skill and the tools, yes it is.
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Actually, there was a guy in the recent thread, that said he just had the 10-bolt axle tubes welded to the 8.8 housing. That way he didn't have to worry about any other custom fabricating. Then, you could just decide if you want to go with a ladder bar setup, or weld TQ arm mounts to the housing. The axle tubes would be the correct length, and the correct bolt pattern. So, you could re-use your brakes and wheels.
You can do a t/a girdle to strengthen it up a bit... Other than that i wouldn't waste my money! I'm on my seventh 10 bolt, This time i will be going with midwest... I should have done it a long time ago.
You need Uber Fab skills to make it work and most smart people update the older 8.8's with fresh guts which is an added cost. Even if they just rebuild the posi, fresh gears, bearing, oil etc etc thats an added cost.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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Thats a good link. But I will still say, unless you got a guy w/ tools, equip, and know how to do it for free, or you use your own sweat equity, your not getting away for any less then 1,000-1,200.
Isn't that still about 1/2 the price of a 12 bolt/9 inch/S60?
I will add I am still on a 10 bolt ( have a 9 in ready on the ground ready to go in.)
my A4/10 bolt/ta cover/detroit locker/3.73/ mos axels/welded tubes/mt drag radals/air bags/adjust ta on body mount/relocate brackets/adjust lca/MID- 11'
my A4/10 bolt/ta cover/detroit locker/3.73/ mos axels/welded tubes/mt drag radals/air bags/adjust ta on body mount/relocate brackets/adjust lca/MID- 11'
You could do it but it will just be as expensive as buying a 12 bolt/9". If you get rid of the c-clips, upgrade your carrier, axles, use a good gear, weld the axle tubes and get yoke that will accept a 1350 series spicer u-joint oh and a griddle cover but that just sounds like a waste of money to me. If you want to do little inexpensive things to beef up the 10 bolt. I would start with welding the tubes, getting a good gear and a TA support cover.
new 12 bolt is about 2000-2500 depending on options and installing yourself. My est on price is assuming help (see: for free) will be provided by someone or the person who is building it has prev exp, skill, and tools to do the work themselves.
My 1 to 1.2k est is most likely a good low ball. If I have some time I'd price the parts out and see if I were to rebuild it correctly and then fab up the pieces etc etc.
Edit:
IMO IF I were to do this project, I would not use worn parts. The main issue is strength and reliability.
Sure, you can get a Junk Yard or used Rear, thats fine but I am still putting fresh guts in it, cleaning it up, fabbing the needed brackets and then paint and finish. ALSO I will be upgrading this like the axles, studs, and rear girdle.
Here is the local Mustang source I have in CT, they tend to be very competitive with Summit/Jegs.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/LM_...Site/00196.htm
and go through, down to pg 202
IMO you should put on C clip Eliminators, so after upgrading the gear/pinion and axles (5 lug), your spending money on wheel studs and Girdles (diff cover), posi unit (or spool), fluids, and gaskets.
Thats called doing the job right, the 1st time.
My 1 to 1.2k est is most likely a good low ball. If I have some time I'd price the parts out and see if I were to rebuild it correctly and then fab up the pieces etc etc.
Edit:
IMO IF I were to do this project, I would not use worn parts. The main issue is strength and reliability.
Sure, you can get a Junk Yard or used Rear, thats fine but I am still putting fresh guts in it, cleaning it up, fabbing the needed brackets and then paint and finish. ALSO I will be upgrading this like the axles, studs, and rear girdle.
Here is the local Mustang source I have in CT, they tend to be very competitive with Summit/Jegs.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/LM_...Site/00196.htm
and go through, down to pg 202
IMO you should put on C clip Eliminators, so after upgrading the gear/pinion and axles (5 lug), your spending money on wheel studs and Girdles (diff cover), posi unit (or spool), fluids, and gaskets.
Thats called doing the job right, the 1st time.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Jan 6, 2010 at 01:41 PM.
