Rebuilding the 10 (updated 5-15-10) Pattern recheck
02-24-2010, 12:40 PM
#22
Well being that your a 6 speed hopefully we will have better luck with our auto's. There is no option but getting a bigger rear end when you have a stick car. The auto's can push alot through them, we dont have to deal with shock load. Cant hit a toothpick with a sledgehammer and not expect it to blow up, we are more like pushing really hard on the toothpick instead of slamming it lol.
02-25-2010, 02:52 PM
#24
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I looked it over and it has not wear on the gears of the torsen unit... I know eventually it will break again. Thats inevitable, but I can't really dish out 2000 + for a good axle right now. I can do the labor myself so that helps alot... Well if SLP don't have a series II (idk why they wouldnt?) then I think I am going with richmond...
02-25-2010, 03:41 PM
#25
The torsen is good, but the bolts that hold it together break, the heads shear off, 3 of mine broke at one time and destroyed my housing too. There is a recent post where someone else recently had it happen but only one bolt broke and their housing looked ok.
02-25-2010, 05:05 PM
#26
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-4900071/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-831044M/
thats what I'm gonna get thus far... I also got $40 bucks in summit bucks. I'm guessing that rebuild kit will fit. Is there any better grades of richmonds aswell? And would ya guys buy a pinion depth gauge... I got a backlash gauge now.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-831044M/
thats what I'm gonna get thus far... I also got $40 bucks in summit bucks. I'm guessing that rebuild kit will fit. Is there any better grades of richmonds aswell? And would ya guys buy a pinion depth gauge... I got a backlash gauge now.
03-08-2010, 05:44 PM
#27
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Ok, I got about .010 backlash, and heres my pattern. I think I need to add more pinion depth but not sure?
Went with richmond hi-performance series... Old ones were Yukons.
Went with richmond hi-performance series... Old ones were Yukons.
03-09-2010, 08:34 PM
#30
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So while setting up, and not putting the crush sleeve on, I should have about 20-25lbs on my torque wrench (beam style) while spinning it on the yoke nut? In other words torque the SOB down... I got 20lbs now and I can't move it by hand, just with my 3/4" breaker... Thats what I'm looking for right? .... Then when I find the right setting and have my real bearings pressed, and put the crush sleeve in, I will be needing up to 400lbs of torque to squeesh it down?
03-09-2010, 10:12 PM
#33
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This is what she looks like, way too dark out anymore to mess wit it. .010 bl again (went all over with it today) and using a .030 pinion shim.
coast
drive
coast
drive
03-11-2010, 03:09 PM
#34
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Final pattern that was decent,
Drive
Coast
I couldn't get one really good, and had to button it up and move the car... It's def alot better than the other guys set, but it still has some whine, especially on deceleration (coast).... Is this the 'richmond' whine or what?
Drive
Coast
I couldn't get one really good, and had to button it up and move the car... It's def alot better than the other guys set, but it still has some whine, especially on deceleration (coast).... Is this the 'richmond' whine or what?
03-12-2010, 02:36 PM
#35
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05-15-2010, 03:34 PM
#37
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Well that setup sucked and I think I got it good now, it has to be quiter than what it was and I don't have that horrible coast pattern. Also my pinion sealed fell apart within 10 miles. btw my old outter pinion bearing had silicone around it, should I putting some on? I got to go get a bear bearing, seal and fluid now, give me your opinion on this pattern... I got .010 BL which is what it calls for.
coast
drive
coast
drive
05-15-2010, 05:32 PM
#38
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From my exp they will say anything to get out of admiting they have a problem . Good luck I am planning to do a similar rebuild and youre info has helped Thanks 
05-29-2010, 08:52 AM
#40
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read through these install instructions, look at page 7:
http://www.jawsgear.com/files/Instal...structions.pdf
"If the contact pattern appears to be towards the heel or the toe of the ring gear teeth I pay no attention and look only at the pattern position from face to flank. The pattern will also change from heel to toe but in most cases an ideal heel to toe pattern can not be achieved. Trying to obtain a pattern that is centered from heel to toe will usually lead to frustration and a noisy gear set"
