Repeat noise issue with Auburn, Yukon diff?
Repeat noise issue with Auburn, Yukon diff? I have had 2 auburns chatter and moan while making sharp turns, both of them started within days of , or the day of the install, one of them you had to drive the car for a good 15 or so miles before it started to do it, it wouldn't do it cold. EDIT: This is WITH a fresh full bottle of Auburn friction modifier added in both installs
But anyway the rear end shop I am using has been doing rear ends for over 30 years and are very well known so I trust the work being done. They mentioned yesterday switching to a Yukon differential, they have always used auburns with no issues.
Has anyone heard of the Yukon diff? Any good? And if anyone has had the moaning and chattering issue from new auburns feel free too chime in. Hope this will solve the noise issue since the yukon is a clutch type and the auburn is a cone type lockup. Thanks in advance for any input..
-My main concern is input on the Yukon diff at this point since they are possibly swithching to using that over the auburn, I trust the auburn, just want to know if the Yukon is any good
http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDeta...px?ProdID=5304
http://www.yukongear.com/
This for a 10 bolt rear, in a auto car making mid 300 to the ground.
Any other diffs for the 10 bolt you guys suggest? Or any bad experiences with auburn?
But anyway the rear end shop I am using has been doing rear ends for over 30 years and are very well known so I trust the work being done. They mentioned yesterday switching to a Yukon differential, they have always used auburns with no issues.
Has anyone heard of the Yukon diff? Any good? And if anyone has had the moaning and chattering issue from new auburns feel free too chime in. Hope this will solve the noise issue since the yukon is a clutch type and the auburn is a cone type lockup. Thanks in advance for any input..
-My main concern is input on the Yukon diff at this point since they are possibly swithching to using that over the auburn, I trust the auburn, just want to know if the Yukon is any good
http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDeta...px?ProdID=5304
http://www.yukongear.com/
This for a 10 bolt rear, in a auto car making mid 300 to the ground.
Any other diffs for the 10 bolt you guys suggest? Or any bad experiences with auburn?
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Feb 23, 2010 at 10:37 AM.
go to a ford dealership and get the motor craft additive and add some of that in there... happend to me in my truck guy told me that and i tried it... bam worked like a charm, it's like $15 but dont leave it in your car, IT STINKS SOOOOO BAD!!!! even if you have not opened it... mine was also a auburn
go to a ford dealership and get the motor craft additive and add some of that in there... happend to me in my truck guy told me that and i tried it... bam worked like a charm, it's like $15 but dont leave it in your car, IT STINKS SOOOOO BAD!!!! even if you have not opened it... mine was also a auburn
On a brand new diff the additive is required, or you will experience the symptoms of chatter and lockup as the OP described in his post.
a clutch type limited slip (which the Aubron is )requires the additive. GM is about 10-15.00 per 4 oz bottle, I run 2 oz. per diff. oil change.
2 oz = more grip-more noise
4 oz= less grip-less noise
ps: I suggest running additive year around
Johnny
go to a ford dealership and get the motor craft additive and add some of that in there... happend to me in my truck guy told me that and i tried it... bam worked like a charm, it's like $15 but dont leave it in your car, IT STINKS SOOOOO BAD!!!! even if you have not opened it... mine was also a auburn
Thank you for your responses guys, the "additive" you guys are referring to is "friction modifier" unfortunately in both instances this was with the rear end coming straight out of the shop with fresh setups and a full bottle of Auburn friction modifier in the fluid so it doesn't seem to be that is the case. Unless you are saying you guys were having this problem while using the Auburn specific modifier and the other brands fixed it, I would think the Auburn specific modifier would be best though...
I have experienced this problem in other vehicles when people forgot to add modifier or it was worn, but mine is fresh, less than 100 miles it did it, actually less than 50. That is the first thing that came to mind. When I heard the noise I immediately picked up the phone and called the rear end shop and said "hey did you forget to put the friction modifier in?" I have been a tech most of my working life and in automotive the rest so I knew right away to suspect the "additive" but they are telling me that is not the case here so they are thinking of putting a Yukon diff in it. So now I want to know if anyone knows if the Yukon diff is any good
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Feb 23, 2010 at 10:40 AM.
Thank you for your responses guys, the "additive" you guys are referring to is "friction modifier" unfortunately in both instances this was with the rear end coming straight out of the shop with fresh setups and a full bottle of Auburn friction modifier in the fluid so it doesn't seem to be that is the case. Unless you are saying you guys were having this problem while using the Auburn specific modifier and the other brands fixed it, I would think the Auburn specific modifier would be best though...
I have experienced this problem in other vehicles when people forgot to add modifier or it was worn, but mine is fresh, less than 100 miles it did it, actually less than 50. That is the first thing that came to mind. When I heard the noise I immediately picked up the phone and called the rear end shop and said "hey did you forget to put the friction modifier in?" I have been a tech most of my working life and in automotive the rest so I knew right away to suspect the "additive" but they are telling me that is not the case here so they are thinking of putting a Yukon diff in it. So now I want to know if anyone knows if the Yukon diff is any good
I have experienced this problem in other vehicles when people forgot to add modifier or it was worn, but mine is fresh, less than 100 miles it did it, actually less than 50. That is the first thing that came to mind. When I heard the noise I immediately picked up the phone and called the rear end shop and said "hey did you forget to put the friction modifier in?" I have been a tech most of my working life and in automotive the rest so I knew right away to suspect the "additive" but they are telling me that is not the case here so they are thinking of putting a Yukon diff in it. So now I want to know if anyone knows if the Yukon diff is any good
If you try that and it still does the same thing, you must have got a defective Auburn unit with the clutch clearances set way too tight.
I would try the GM Friction Modifier before replacing the differential. Just drain some fluid and add in the GM Limited Slip additive as is, too much won't hurt because obviously its still way too grabby.
If you try that and it still does the same thing, you must have got a defective Auburn unit with the clutch clearances set way too tight.
If you try that and it still does the same thing, you must have got a defective Auburn unit with the clutch clearances set way too tight.
If for instance someone says the Yukon is junk that the shop is contemplating using then I may go the more modifier route, I think you are right and believe it may work, but at the same time if I run more modifier and it causes me to lose some of the lockup power then I dont really want that either.... so I will have to contemplate that one.
So can anyone provide feedback on Yukon differentials?
maybe I should make a specific thread for that question?
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from the looks of the pic in the site you referenced,it looks like,and I could be TOTALLY wrong,Yukon could be repackaging an Eaton unit.
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...iLSD/index.htm
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...iLSD/index.htm
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Brett Foote from the looks of the pic in the site you referenced,it looks like,and I could be TOTALLY wrong,Yukon could be repackaging an Eaton unit.
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...iLSD/index.htm
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...iLSD/index.htm
Thank you for your responses guys, the "additive" you guys are referring to is "friction modifier" unfortunately in both instances this was with the rear end coming straight out of the shop with fresh setups and a full bottle of Auburn friction modifier in the fluid so it doesn't seem to be that is the case. Unless you are saying you guys were having this problem while using the Auburn specific modifier and the other brands fixed it, I would think the Auburn specific modifier would be best though...
I have experienced this problem in other vehicles when people forgot to add modifier or it was worn, but mine is fresh, less than 100 miles it did it, actually less than 50. That is the first thing that came to mind. When I heard the noise I immediately picked up the phone and called the rear end shop and said "hey did you forget to put the friction modifier in?" I have been a tech most of my working life and in automotive the rest so I knew right away to suspect the "additive" but they are telling me that is not the case here so they are thinking of putting a Yukon diff in it. So now I want to know if anyone knows if the Yukon diff is any good
I have experienced this problem in other vehicles when people forgot to add modifier or it was worn, but mine is fresh, less than 100 miles it did it, actually less than 50. That is the first thing that came to mind. When I heard the noise I immediately picked up the phone and called the rear end shop and said "hey did you forget to put the friction modifier in?" I have been a tech most of my working life and in automotive the rest so I knew right away to suspect the "additive" but they are telling me that is not the case here so they are thinking of putting a Yukon diff in it. So now I want to know if anyone knows if the Yukon diff is any good
Ok so I ended up talking to the shop and to Auburn, we came to the conclusion that the weight oil they were using was incorrect as far as what Auburn specifies to use, Auburn says to use a Non synthetic 80-90 GL5, the shop was using a 85-140 Non synthetic and had never had a problem with using it before and has installed countless Auburn's. Also Auburn said to use 2 oz of modifier per quart of fluid, the shop put in 6 oz Auburn modifier and the rear end holds a little under 3 quarts so the ratio was good but it still acted up.
So it is fixed now by the way, and the way they fixed was by ordering 80-90W GL5 from chevrolet and 8oz of GM modifier.
Auburn recommended just adding more modifier if it was chattering and that it would not affect the amount of grip the cones can obtain.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
So it is fixed now by the way, and the way they fixed was by ordering 80-90W GL5 from chevrolet and 8oz of GM modifier.
Auburn recommended just adding more modifier if it was chattering and that it would not affect the amount of grip the cones can obtain.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 49
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From: Colorado Springs
Ok so I ended up talking to the shop and to Auburn, we came to the conclusion that the weight oil they were using was incorrect as far as what Auburn specifies to use, Auburn says to use a Non synthetic 80-90 GL5, the shop was using a 85-140 Non synthetic and had never had a problem with using it before and has installed countless Auburn's. Also Auburn said to use 2 oz of modifier per quart of fluid, the shop put in 6 oz Auburn modifier and the rear end holds a little under 3 quarts so the ratio was good but it still acted up.
So it is fixed now by the way, and the way they fixed was by ordering 80-90W GL5 from chevrolet and 8oz of GM modifier.
Auburn recommended just adding more modifier if it was chattering and that it would not affect the amount of grip the cones can obtain.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
So it is fixed now by the way, and the way they fixed was by ordering 80-90W GL5 from chevrolet and 8oz of GM modifier.
Auburn recommended just adding more modifier if it was chattering and that it would not affect the amount of grip the cones can obtain.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
Bingo dude !!! my Auburn Limited Slip was humming and whining so bad I almost needed ear plugs driving down the road.... I had the Auburn limitied slip and 4.10 gears installed from 4wheel parts ... I took it back 3 times... each time they opened up the diff and there was NO damage of any kind, no metal flakes, no broken parts, no loose parts... they told me that the Auburn is just loud LOL...I called Auburn and they said I needed 80-90W with GM limited slip additive, got the gear oil... went home pulled the cover and swaped out the new gear oil with additive... went down the road and it quieted down so much that I was almost laughing by how happy I was that fixed it LOL
that was 2 years ago and its still nice and quiet
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
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My professional opinion is the Auburn is cheap junk. They don't even balance them, plus the case and clutch design is fred flinstone. I'd buy the Eaton or Yukon, anything else is a waste of your time. The torsen is a great functioning unit but its fragile.
Here is a great Torsen replacement that won't break easily. This is what I would use http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FSJk7Aodgm0AkQ
Here is a great Torsen replacement that won't break easily. This is what I would use http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FSJk7Aodgm0AkQ
Last edited by RockinWs6; Apr 11, 2015 at 09:35 PM.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
^ Take it easy guys.
I've had no quality related or premature failure issues with my Auburns at all, both stock and aftermarket high bias (though the high bias ones do tend to wear more quickly.) Definitely not junk in my experience. They just happen to be more picky about lube type/weight than some other options.
I've had no quality related or premature failure issues with my Auburns at all, both stock and aftermarket high bias (though the high bias ones do tend to wear more quickly.) Definitely not junk in my experience. They just happen to be more picky about lube type/weight than some other options.
Auburns are absolutely junk if you do anything more than drive the car calmly as a daily driver. Even the "racers" high bias diff, what a load. Killed three of those things in three summers, and I'm not the only one with that experience. Like rockin said, they are cheaply manufactured junk.
RPM WS6, honest question here: How long ago was the last unit you installed that worked well for you? I, along with others have chosen the high bias units based on glowing reviews for autocross/road course use from people who have used that unit for years. However, none of us can get the newer units to last before they fail. I'm seriously wondering if Auburn's quality has gone downhill within the last few years. Could be a situation like some have experienced with the Torsen T2R, the high bias unit. They used to be considered the best for handling applications, and I know somewhere along the line they switched to a lesser quality material, and people started breaking cases as they became very fragile.
I still think the cone clutches in a 7.5 ten bolt unit are too small to handle the power an average LS engine makes. But that's more the fault of GM putting such and undersized rear in these cars.
I still think the cone clutches in a 7.5 ten bolt unit are too small to handle the power an average LS engine makes. But that's more the fault of GM putting such and undersized rear in these cars.