2.73 to 3.73 help!
you need to change the carrier or something.
however, richmond offers "thick gears" for series 2 carriers
is that what i need?
if i order only that will i have what i need to do the swap myself?
and as a last minute thing..
anyone regret a 3.73 w/ a4 on the freeway?
should i 3.42 maybe?
I went with the 3.42s because i like to cruise on the freeway and go places like Reno for a road trip.I'm glad i didn't get 3.73s.
I get 18 mpg in town and 26 mpg on the interstate.
Good luck.
I did this, and my noise is NIL, SILENT , ZIP. just freaking wastes the nitto's after all the boltons and 'verter. probably would make your verter feel alot less loose and eat up your mpg too. I'm down to about 85 miles to 1/2 tank all city driving.
I did this, and my noise is NIL, SILENT , ZIP. just freaking wastes the nitto's after all the boltons and 'verter. probably would make your verter feel alot less loose and eat up your mpg too. I'm down to about 85 miles to 1/2 tank all city driving.
Where'd you get the GM gear from, GM dealer I guess? How much were they if you don't me asking?
Oh, did you have to get a reluctor ring as well for the new diff, or does the
one from the 2 series carrier fits the 3 series carrier you got from SLP?
Thanks for your time,
Aria
The Reluctor wheel is cheap, but if you have ASR you know that the reluctors are on the axle thus not needing replacement.
p.s. I did it the right way why?? Because the ONLY MOD i went cheap and took a shortcut on, is the one giving me the biggest headaches (ALA PACESETTER LT's/ORY). Damn i wasted my money on this junk and will probably need a custom ORY made its so lame.
Thats why i did the RATECH DELUXE install kit, slp take off zexel, and REAL GM gears. I didn't want no bullchit whine/etc. Fortunately the wise words of my bro and the board steered me right with the rear end.
The other solution would be to find a whole REAR end (with same features abs/asr) and swap it , it would be FAR CHEAPER labour wise. While your removing the tail you can swap the driveshaft/torque arm/lca's/phr

I was the one who lost a tailshaft on the dyno. No idea why, but it was destroyed. Still not sure if its cause of the steel axle, but i have too much torque for a aluminum i think.
Trending Topics
I'll have to go see my parts guy at the local dealer, I'm sure it's gonna cost an arm and a leg, even w/20% disc and no tax.
I'd love to find a low mileage rear locally. Did that to my old '78.
Aria
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
so i think i have a posi clutch and not gears.
i heard this auburn is not as good for straightaways
as the torsen used for the other years.
should i just try to find a disgarded M6'ers diff?
gear posi not clutch, 3.42 and same parts otherwise.
how much should i pay?
how far can i get on this?
when should i consider a 12-bolt?
The auburn and stock posi's will wear out. The Zexel will blow up if you hit it too hard. Thats the difference. Spend $429 on an auburn that will wear out? I think not.
Go to thunder or SLP (thunder is faster) they are both SLP sealed boxes. i guess thunder had some stock of theirs and nobody ships faster than thunder. Well maybe tbyrne. Close tie.
$129 RATECH KIT
$99 ZEXEL
$170 3.42 REAL GM gears brand new in box
$$$$$ LABOR get a pro to do it right, or gear whine baby.
I've got no gear whine nada, zip zero. At least until the 10 bolt blows up i'll not have any issues. IT seems you chevy guys put up with a lot of substandard parts and quality, and i'm tired of it already lol.
$99 ZEXEL
$170 3.42 REAL GM gears brand new in box
$$$$$ LABOR get a pro to do it right, or gear whine baby.
$400 for a 10 bolt 3.42 setup?! wtf?
how much do the M6ers sell their old diffs for?
but the $$ i paid for the install was several hundred as well (im not that skilled) but to be fair the installer did do my LCA's/phr at the same time no extra charge. Which would have taken me a few hours due to my (lack of) mechanical skills.
It would be cheaper to swap a whole rear end, but what if that rear end had 50K miles on it and was dogged. My bro had a whole ws6 rear end but it was bent. and it blew twice (4.10's) so i was thinking, probably not a good idea to go used.
i spose if you knew the rear end was perfect and the owner was an old lady who never raced the car, then that would be great, but don't most people blow up their rear ends and dogg them at the track, then upgrade to 12/9/8.8 and sell off their old junk?
shipping a rear end is very expensive too.
I got a 6 speed rear from Joe Prince with less than 10000 miles on it and it has lasted a whole year with over 100 sub 1.7 60s on it.
Stu
Be sure to get a new zexel torsen (or take off slp) and a gear install kit, and REAL GM gears, and do it right, or you'll be sorry. Some of those other gear makers whine or chip easily.
i'm probably going to have to get a line lock and ET's to run my setup (3.42's). All the other guys with similar power basically said nitto DR = sideways down the track.
So you might want to factor in the line lock and slicks into your purchase.
bmr lca/phr/torque arm/etc all good idea too. Wheel hope will destroy your rear end quick. I'm sure you've felt it before.
you need to change the carrier or something.
however, richmond offers "thick gears" for series 2 carriers
is that what i need?
if i order only that will i have what i need to do the swap myself?
and as a last minute thing..
anyone regret a 3.73 w/ a4 on the freeway?
should i 3.42 maybe?
. mine was a turd before my gears. on the higway it turns a little higher but it didnt phase me due to the performance you get on the street. Whisper quiet, but nothing less would be acceptable for me.





