kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

I'm glad someone finally did this, I saw a similar setup on a Mustang in the Nov 2005 Grassroots Motorsports magazine, but is the Bruce Griggs setup and it bolts to the bolts on the rear cover. I always wondered why no one ever tried to adapt this to an F-body as it seems to be an easy fix to the torque arm problem.

How much do you think a machine shop would charge to cut and weld the 10-bolt axles onto the 8.8" center? This may be my next project.

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

I worked with Bruce Griggs a little bit on this project. They were always helpful...when I could get them on the phone. I guess they were going through a move and possibly some financial problems, so they weren't the easiest folks to get a hold of. I ultimately went with MM version because I could always get in contact with them and the most extreme version of their torque arm was less expensive than Griggs Racings' entry-level, when I needed to purchase one.

You'll probably be better off by cutting off the 10-bolt axle tubes yourself. Then, take the 8.8 and 10-bolt tubes to the machine shop and tell them what you want. After they machine the tubes, take them to a chassis shop or rear-end shop and have them press the tubes together, jig the entire setup, and weld the tubes. Make sure you put the rear in a jig before welding!!

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

How can you give the rigth angle to you rear with your torque arm set up?
Was to dificult to adapt the cross member with your exhaust?

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

The rear is set at -2, just like any other 4th gen M6. You measure just like you would on any other 4th gen, as well. The only difference is that the pinion angle is controlled by the number shims between the rear-end housing and the torque arm's two forward mounting bolts on the housing. Each shim equals about 1/2 degree of pinion angle. You add/subtract as necessary to achieve the correct angle.

The crossmember required zero modifications for the exhaust.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

Wow. Interesting. I like your set up. We have to invest so much time and money not only in the 8.8 build but in the suspension parts like TA . I think your set is econocal considering you kill two birds one shoot. You install the 8.8 and take care of the suspension in one set up that i feel more safe than the mini lether bars. Congratulations
for a good working set up.

Z06lightening

very nice.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

You tested you set up in the track?
Any update?

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

Short answer: No
Long answer, I got short-notice-tagged for an involuntary "vacation" shortly after finishing it up. Before I left, I had about 1,000 hard, street-driven miles on it. Probably around 25 or 30 3k to 4k clutch dumps on the Nitto NT-05R drag radials, and it was still as quiet as when I originally put it together.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

So what was the total cost of this build?

Could you please provide a breakdown of what everything cost for those of us considering this?

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

Nice work!

smws6ta

iTrader: (5)

What do you do for cars that have 3 Channel ABS?

I have a 8.8 from a E.B. Explorer that has 4.10 gears and 31 spline axles. It looks the ABS is set up as a 3 channel like my 98 TA.

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Bump for info. I'm in the same boat, here. I have a 3 channel rear and wanting to keep my ABS and figure out how to do it.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

Not sure about the factory ABS on the Ford rears, but there is at least 2 threads on here about relocating the 3 channel sensor and adding an aftermarket gear for it to read off of to keep ABS. In one of them they put the reluctor on the pinion yoke on a 9" rearend and made a sensor bracket off the pinion support. The other one put the reluctor on the driveshaft slip yoke and mounted the sensor off a bracket attached to the transmission tailhousing. That is the one I think I'd go with even though it required some minor rewiring for the different sensor location. In either case they used a 1/4 pitch, 32 tooth gear (iirc) and had it machined to fit the internal diameter of the respective location.

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info, 1961. It sounds like the 3 channel rears are a little more complicated to get ABS to work. It stinks because I really want to keep ABS for safety reasons with my wife driving the car, but I really don't want to engineer something other than the stock setup.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I've wanted to keep it for the same reasons...when my wife (to be) or later when my kids drive it.

The setup on the slip yoke is actually fairly simple when you see it. The gear is not expensive, and machining it to fit your slip yoke shouldn't cost much at all. After that you are only looking at fabbing up a simple mount for the sensor and extending your 2 wires.

siguy

yes like the idea will be doing a protect like this soon .. do you have
a cost break down and where did you see the relocation of the abs sensor posted could not find it thx

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, guys; life happens, sometimes. I can't find all my receipts, but with all the wheeling and dealing, buying and selling, and junk yard parts, I think I have about $1600 in this thing. You could probably knock it out for less by not installing the Ford Racing clutch packs nor the LPW cover and axle braces. I also eliminated the crush sleeves which added to the cost of the build (due to increased labor time to have it set up properly.) If you are comfortable setting the gears up yourself, you can save even more money. I took the rear to Bill Buck to have everything setup properly after I had finished the rear. He's without a doubt the best 8.8 guru in Texas. That cost a couple hundred bucks, if I remember correctly.

reinhardt02

It appears you have had this rear in the car for about 2 years based on the start date of the thread. How much and what kind of driving have you done with the car? I have a 8.8 center section out of an explorer that I plan on doing the swap with. I have a 4 channel car and I want to retain the ABS and TCS. Have you had issues with the Low Trac light or ABS Inop light coming on?

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

Yep, had it under the car for about 2-years, now. I probably have about 10K miles on it; all on drag radials; mostly "spirited" street miles. No issues with TCS nor ABS (I did pay extra to have the reluctor rings on the axles from Moser, though). No funky noises; no clunks; no whine; just as quiet as when I slapped it in the car.

You'll get lots of opinions on the subject, but I think the Exploder pumpkin is too heavy for a car (when compared to the Mustang housing). Now, the 31-spline TracLoc is great, though. I used the 31-Spline TracLoc from a Mountaineer and the housing from a Mustang. If you decide to use a Mustang-style Torque Arm setup, the Exploder pumpkin won't work. If you elect to make your own Torque Arm and use sleeves to fit the Exploder axle tubes to the F-Body tubes, then you can get away with the Exploder pumpkin. If you factor in the weight of the Exploder pumpkin, and then the weight of the sleeves for the axle tubes, the weight difference between the Exploder and the Mustang cases is significant. Again, you're choice, though, and good luck.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Please pardon my complete ignorance, but why on earth would someone go through this much trouble for that axle? Is it really light, better geometry, more efficient? Just curious what's the draw. Looks good and stout at least.