Bad Front Wheel Bearings...
Bad Front Wheel Bearings... Hey all,
I took the SS in for an alignment today (Goodyear tire center)... they said the front wheel bearings were so bad that they couldn't get it to stay in alignment. They quoted me at $435 out the door to replace the wheel bearings.
Does this sound high? Is there a 'performance' option for wheel bearings that I should look out for?
Thanks,
--Eric
2002 Camaro SS 12.8 @ 112
I took the SS in for an alignment today (Goodyear tire center)... they said the front wheel bearings were so bad that they couldn't get it to stay in alignment. They quoted me at $435 out the door to replace the wheel bearings.
Does this sound high? Is there a 'performance' option for wheel bearings that I should look out for?
Thanks,
--Eric
2002 Camaro SS 12.8 @ 112
replace the bearings yourself. it's and easy 10 minute job. they come as a complete hub assembly. just pop the caliper and rotor off and unbolt the 4 bolts that are holding the hub on from the back. piece of cake and it will save you labor cost and part mark-up!
RockAuto has the Timken hubs for $132 each...still a little steep, but better than $470. I've been meaning to swap mine (87k miles on them) but the price is a bit of a turn-off when the bearings aren't actually bad yet.
The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
So.. autozone has the front wheel bearings:
Timken - $164 each - $328 for both.
Duralast - $104 each - $208 for both.
Is it worth the extra $$ for the Timken?
Thanks,
--Eric
Timken - $164 each - $328 for both.
Duralast - $104 each - $208 for both.
Is it worth the extra $$ for the Timken?
Thanks,
--Eric
Trending Topics
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Everyone is so quick to say "do it yourself", but in all honesty $435 isn't a bad price at all to change out both wheel bearings including labor.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
--Eric
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
That's what I thought... but I didn't notice any howling at all... I took it in for an alignment because the prev owner road raced the car and had the alignment altered, so the inside aspect of the tires was wearing prematurely.
The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
My bearing hubs do the same thing on the front. Im confident there both original (176k miles) all bushings and balljoints are brand new. I would just double check everything to make sure it isnt something stupid and simple to fix first.
If your not confident enough to do the work on your car yourself. Then take it somewhere where your comfortable with and see what they say.
If your not confident enough to do the work on your car yourself. Then take it somewhere where your comfortable with and see what they say.
Everyone is so quick to say "do it yourself", but in all honesty $435 isn't a bad price at all to change out both wheel bearings including labor.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 14
From: Chicago, IL
I'm pretty sure i have bad front wheel bearings and I think I'm gonna go buy those Timkens.
But just because I'm paranoid and I like to document everything...Does this video sound like just bad wheel bearings or something worse?
That's my car the last time I did an oil change. I think I'm around 117,000. Might need to put your volume to hear that metallic scrape sound. I promise you, there's no scary ghost girl or something at the end!
But just because I'm paranoid and I like to document everything...Does this video sound like just bad wheel bearings or something worse?
That's my car the last time I did an oil change. I think I'm around 117,000. Might need to put your volume to hear that metallic scrape sound. I promise you, there's no scary ghost girl or something at the end!
My bad front wheel bearing rattled and caused the car to dart around...but I have very aggressive alignment settings. I never had scraping. FWIW, it sounded exactly like the way koni da shocks rattle if you are familiar with that.
My truck does scrape and it is the thin sheet metal dust cover thing on the inside of the hub rubbing the rotor.
My truck does scrape and it is the thin sheet metal dust cover thing on the inside of the hub rubbing the rotor.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 14
From: Chicago, IL
So, I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearing/hub. I took out all 4 bolts that tie it to the "thing that holds the hub" (sorry I dunno). The hub is still fastened really tight, but nit by any bolt. I tried lightly hammering...and then frustrated hammering to no avail. I just pb blastered it, but before I go at it again, is there another mysterious bolt or fastener I'm not aware of, or is it just rust?
Cant remember for sure on our cars, but you typically need to remove the wheel speed sensor...you may have already damaged it. Luckily Chevy is cheap..my infinity WSS cost like $300...piece of crap car too.
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Far north in the Atlantic Ocean
So, I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearing/hub. I took out all 4 bolts that tie it to the "thing that holds the hub" (sorry I dunno). The hub is still fastened really tight, but nit by any bolt. I tried lightly hammering...and then frustrated hammering to no avail. I just pb blastered it, but before I go at it again, is there another mysterious bolt or fastener I'm not aware of, or is it just rust?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 14
From: Chicago, IL
Well, I finished the driver's side hub replacement. Turns out, it really was just rust, and it took about a good 20-30 minutes of hammering, PB Blastering, and chiseling to get that damn thing off.
Alas, after I took it off, I noticed something funky behind it and saw that my sway bar was cracked all the way through... Looks like I'm in the market for one of those too...and I guess since I'm so far in now, might as well get new Tie Rod Ends.
My Mod Bug keeps getting squashed by the Repair Boot!
Alas, after I took it off, I noticed something funky behind it and saw that my sway bar was cracked all the way through... Looks like I'm in the market for one of those too...and I guess since I'm so far in now, might as well get new Tie Rod Ends.
My Mod Bug keeps getting squashed by the Repair Boot!
