5 year long vibration
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
5 year long vibration I know this subject has been talked about forever here but i've done pretty much everything that I have read on this forum to try and correct this issue and i'm stumped. I have a 2000 Camaro ss and for the past five years i've been trying to solve this mystery vibration that I get on the expressway starting at 60 and up. I feel it in the steering wheel and my seats. the passenger seat shakes a lot also. The car is smooth up until I hit about 60. I'm hoping someone can help me out. I have changed everything on the car except the rack and pinion and torque arm. I have all new aftermarket suspension, new wheels and tires-balanced endless times ,stock brakes, moser 9 inch, rebuilt t56, monster stage 3 clutch, pst 3.5 driveshaft, rubber trans. mount, poly motor mounts, so pretty much everything. I had a BMR torque arm but sold it because it was'nt helping but that was before i put in the moser 9 in. Now i'm thinking that because the pinion on the moser sits lower apparantly that I need the torque arm now to compensate for the pinion angle. I just got done taking my angle measurements and they are as follows- trans. is pointing down -3.2, driveshaft is pointing down to the rear pinion at -2.6 and the rear pinion is pointing down at -1.4. Is this ok or do I need an adjustable torque arm. I'm at my wits end and very frustrated that i spent so much money on this car and I can't enjoy cruising on the highway. I'm really hoping someone can help me out, thanks for any feedback. Mike
Have you made sure you don't have a slightly bent axle? Have you tried placing jack stands under the rear end and running the car in gear to see if you can pinpoint any vibrations? Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I did not rebalance the shaft as it is a brand new pst 3.5 shaft with a hundred miles on it. I did have to replace both u joints for some reason due to binding that's why I was thinking that I need an adjustable torque arm to adjust pinion angle but if you guys think the angles are good then I guess i'll keep looking elsewhere. I jacked up the rear end in my shop and the axles look true and the pinion yoke checked out fine. I've already aligned it, thrust angle is dead straight at 0.00. Thanks for all of the replys guys, I really appreciate the help. Mike
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Verdad Gallardo I did not rebalance the shaft as it is a brand new pst 3.5 shaft with a hundred miles on it. I did have to replace both u joints for some reason due to binding that's why I was thinking that I need an adjustable torque arm to adjust pinion angle but if you guys think the angles are good then I guess i'll keep looking elsewhere. I jacked up the rear end in my shop and the axles look true and the pinion yoke checked out fine. I've already aligned it, thrust angle is dead straight at 0.00. Thanks for all of the replys guys, I really appreciate the help. Mike
Below is from BMR's website. Bob
Set the pinion angle using the following method:
Load the rear axle by either setting the car on the ground or letting the car rest on jack stands positioned under the rear axle.
Place the angle finder on the driveshaft and record the angle. The driveshaft angle is negative if it slopes downward towards the rear of the car. The driveshaft angle is positive if it slopes upward towards the rear of the car.
Now place the angle finder on the rear end torque arm mounting plate and record the angle. The rear end angle is negative if it slopes downward towards the front of the car. The rear end angle is positive if it slopes upward towards the front of the car.
Add the two measurements. This is your pinion angle. (Example: -2 rear end angle plus -1 driveshaft angle = -3 degrees)
Turn adjuster to achieve the desired angle.
As a starting point, most F-Bodies seem to like the following initial settings: Automatics: 1-2 degrees negative Manuals: 2-3 degrees negative
Please refer to www.bmrfabrication.com to view the video for setting the pinion angle.
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Well I have the stock torque arm on there now and according to the bmr instructions my pinion angle is -4. Driveshaft is -2.5, rear end is -1.5. -2.5 + -1.5 = -4.0. so I take it that i need an adjustable torque arm to compensate.
Yes, you're going to need a good torque arm. The BMR TPU001 is the one I prefer for street/drag use. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Restricted User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Ok one of the reasons i refer people to use there local driveline shops is shipping...
These shipping companies like to throw things.... It is not fun hearing a customer with a shaft that has a slight vibe at __ mph because retards at shipping companies like to throw things..
I know everyone thinks a shaft is just a tube and joints.... yeah well throwing them around is not good for them and can change the balance....
Changing the joints CAN and DOES change the balance.
If you have a 4 at the pin and 2 at the shaft you have 2 diff, thats good
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
You know I did think about the shaft being out of balance from it being shipped and also wondered if changing both of the ujoints could cause an unbalance issue. By the way my pinion is pointing down -1.5, driveshaft is -2.5 down to the pinion and my trans. output shaft is -3.2 down to the pinion. I'm thinking both u joint operating angles have to be the same to cancel each other out and not cause a vibration. shouldn't my pinion be pointing down more negative? and if so, then i'll need to buy an adjustable torque arm to bring it down some more. Thanks for the comments.
Restricted User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
The joint angles don't have to mimic eachother from one end to the other... the angles shouldn't exceed eachother, ideally under load you want 0 degrees, angle increases hp loss, they also limit rpm, however on a street car no angle also reduces joint life. so as long as you don't really exceed 3 degrees
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I already replaced the hub bearings, i rebalanced the tires again yesterday, it seemed to help a little but the vibe is still there. I did notice yesterday driving home on the expressway that if i drop it into 5th gear and get up to 80 there is no vibe as the mph climb. I'm wondering if the stock torque arm flexing under that much of a load is causing the pinion angle to be where it should be at that point in time, thus no vibration. But if i'm in 6th gear just cruising at 2k I feel the vibe in the seats and wheel. I think I just need to get an adjustable torque arm and see what happens. I'm really tired of this vibe to the point I don't even want to drive it till I figure out what the hell is going on. any other thoughts? Thanks for everyone's advise.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Well if you replaced the bearings, that might cure a growling noise or if they were bad enough a possible vibration, but if the hub that gets pressed into the bearing isnt flat....... I would think if the hub were bent, you may also notice a brake pulsation, depending on how bad it would be bent. Or on these cars is the hub and bearing all one assembly that is just bolted to the knuckle? Then I could see replacing the front "bearings" as taking care of that possibilty.