Wheel Hop
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Clarkston, MI
Wheel Hop Hi guys,
The new season starts in about a month for me
... I put the car away in pretty bruised shape last fall, and I want to work everything out right at the beginning of this spring.
In addition to suspecting bent pushrods, I have also experienced a lot more wheel hop than I ever did before. There was one instance, in the burnout box, when I felt a bang when I dropped the clutch, and began to feel my right rear wheel bouncing up and down like mad. Since then, I have experienced wheel hop on every launch, and even when downshifting at high speeds for passing and highway sprints. It definitely never showed up like this before that incident. I am thinking a new tranny mount may be on order? That sounds simple enough -- is there anything else I should inspect that may be causing this problem?
Thanks for your help... counting down the days to March 12
The new season starts in about a month for me
... I put the car away in pretty bruised shape last fall, and I want to work everything out right at the beginning of this spring.In addition to suspecting bent pushrods, I have also experienced a lot more wheel hop than I ever did before. There was one instance, in the burnout box, when I felt a bang when I dropped the clutch, and began to feel my right rear wheel bouncing up and down like mad. Since then, I have experienced wheel hop on every launch, and even when downshifting at high speeds for passing and highway sprints. It definitely never showed up like this before that incident. I am thinking a new tranny mount may be on order? That sounds simple enough -- is there anything else I should inspect that may be causing this problem?
Thanks for your help... counting down the days to March 12
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Clarkston, MI
By the way... these are my mods:
MTI airlid, K&N filter, TByrne MAF ends, SLP bellows, B&M shifter, PPC long tube headers w/ off-road y-pipe, Corsa cat-back, and BFG T/A KDW 275's.
All of these mods were installed prior to the incident I described above.
MTI airlid, K&N filter, TByrne MAF ends, SLP bellows, B&M shifter, PPC long tube headers w/ off-road y-pipe, Corsa cat-back, and BFG T/A KDW 275's.
All of these mods were installed prior to the incident I described above.
I would have to agree with Smokin01TA. A set of LCA's, brakets, torque arm, panhard bar, and sub frame connectors should solve that problem. You can probly get the complete setup from BMR for about 850 with tax and shipping with poly bushings.
Enjoy
Nakoz
Enjoy
Nakoz
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Clarkston, MI
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
you still leaving a good 2 tire tread on burnout. maby the posi?
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Verdad Gallardo i think they are around 400 bucks? not sure. if mine goes out im going with a spool next go around. i dont drive mine all day so eating tires dont bother me at 20 miles a week. not hard to install if you know a little bit about spacing the gears right. you should be able to almost pull it out and put the new one right in using the same spacers if you are lucky. just keep track of what spacers cam out of what side. i did this once and it worked great for 1,000 miles till i sold the car.
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Jay....
Check the trans mount & get a urethane one.
Check your torque arm to see if it's bent at all (or cracked)... and, install a urethane torque arm mount (replacing the rubber one on the side of the trans) if the arm is OK and you are going to continue to use it.
The bushings in the control arm may be shot too. A set of rod end arms (with teflon liners in the ends) will do wonders.
A torque arm wouldn't hurt... but is more $$$ too.
Here's my torque arm.... before & after:
Gordon
PPC
Check the trans mount & get a urethane one.
Check your torque arm to see if it's bent at all (or cracked)... and, install a urethane torque arm mount (replacing the rubber one on the side of the trans) if the arm is OK and you are going to continue to use it.
The bushings in the control arm may be shot too. A set of rod end arms (with teflon liners in the ends) will do wonders.
A torque arm wouldn't hurt... but is more $$$ too.
Here's my torque arm.... before & after:
Gordon
PPC
Last edited by M3EATER; Mar 6, 2004 at 01:32 PM.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,954
Likes: 1
From: Kent WA
You may have broken your torque arm from the sounds of it... I know a local guy here who cracked his stock torque arm on a hard launch with pretty much a stock suspension.
Since you've done quite a few bolt-on HP mods, I'd concentrate your mod money on suspension components for now... get the SFCs to shore up any squeaks and rattles, then go with LCAs, a new torque arm, maybe a bigger rear sway bar, poly bushings/endlinks and a poly trans mount. All those things should kill your wheel hop before the wheel hop kills your rear end.
Since you've done quite a few bolt-on HP mods, I'd concentrate your mod money on suspension components for now... get the SFCs to shore up any squeaks and rattles, then go with LCAs, a new torque arm, maybe a bigger rear sway bar, poly bushings/endlinks and a poly trans mount. All those things should kill your wheel hop before the wheel hop kills your rear end.