AgreSSer SS

I am in the process of changing end seal ( driver side ) on my S60 rear, but I have a problem trying to get the bearing race out of the housing. I tried pulling it by hand and then gently priying with a seal puller neither worked.

Is there something that I missing or is there a special tool that I need to get.

Oh are you guys using a dab of RTV around the OD of the new seal or should it be installed dry.

Big Socket ok to drive in new seal or use dedicated seal driver.

Thanks in advance for replies.

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

The bearing is pressed on the axle, You need to remove the housing end bolts and probably need an axle puller to get the axle out.

Carl

AgreSSer SS

Hi Carl. Thanks for the response, but I in my case the bearing on the axle is a tapered roller bearing which is in good shape.

My problem is the "Seperate Race" that seems to be captive in the housing tube end. I have the axel completely removed from the vehicle and want to pull the inside axle oil seal in the housing end tube P/N 41013S.

This bearing is a two piece deal. Roller on axel and race inside the housing. Do I need a race puller. This S60 is about two years old if that makes a difference.

Thanks.

Still looking for answer to this problem.

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

That's a bit interesting. I thought all the s60 rears were made with the 1pc bearing. my guess is your right and if the outer race is stuck then you have no choice.

can you get some pictures up to see? I would like to see how they set up this style

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

you have the Timken set 20 tapered street bearing assy on that axle. it is common for the race to stick in the end of the housing when you remove the axle. if there is no debris holding the race in the end, then you can usually wiggle the race out of the end without too much problem, but if it too hard to do then a race puller on a slide hammer works well.

it is always a good idea to apply a thin layer(not a bead) of Permatex ultra black sealer to the od of the seal on any application like that. as far as installing the new seal... if you have a socket that is very close to the same od as the seal then if you are careful it should work ok, but a flat seal driver is always the best tool to use. you just have to be sure not to distort the seal surface or flange when installing it or you will be right back at square one.

install tip: be sure that both surfaces of the housing end and seal are clean and totally dry or else the sealer is useless. some brake cleaner on a shop towel works well. we also apply a thin layer of the rtv to the od of the seal on the bearing as well(where it fits into the housing end). be sure to clean off the surfaces and put the bearing and race back together like it was when new for re-install.

AgreSSer SS

Thanks for the info ssvert99. That drescription does sound like my set-up. I will start looking for a race puller with the slide hammer. timken set 20 was mentioned to me earlier, so it is making a more sense now.

Can I re-use the race if it remove square?


Thanks for the info. Have to chase more parts and tools now. ha ha.

AgreSSer SS

Good news I got the race out today! I made a call to the guys at Midwest Chassis and was given the information that was needed. They have come across this situation before with the 9" and S60's.

I just needed to pull the race more evenly using both hands in an opposing fashion hard enough and sure enough it popped right out. I laughed out loud when it did! It was all in the technique. Thanks again Midwest Chassis!

I will also be ordering new hardware specifically the T bolt nuts recommened by midwest, because the Strange jet nut O.D. is too small to transfer the clamping force needed.

Thanks again to everyone that took time to give advice to help remedy my problem. This forum has be very good to me.