Precision Super-Strength u-joints?
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TECH Junkie
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From: Rapid City, SD
Precision Super-Strength u-joints? I'm installing a clutch next weekend. And since my driveshaft will be out, I plan to go ahead and put in some new u-joints and straps/bolts. Since my rear u-joint has a little play in it due to a broken torque arm I dealt with last summer, I figured just go ahead and replace both. Looking on Rockauto I found some Precision super-strength non-greasable u-joints that look pretty good. Anyone have any experience with these?
Also I have been looking for a write-up to replace them, but no luck. Is it necessary to take the driveshaft to somewhere with a press, or doable with basic garage tools? I'll be in an auto hobby shop on a military base, they usually have a huge selection of tools equipment..
Also I have been looking for a write-up to replace them, but no luck. Is it necessary to take the driveshaft to somewhere with a press, or doable with basic garage tools? I'll be in an auto hobby shop on a military base, they usually have a huge selection of tools equipment..
I did them yesterday
the stock U-joints aren't held in by normal retaining clips, they inject nylon into a groove which holds them in. on here I read you use a torch to melt them out. it takes a while but once you melt all the nylon out the bearing caps pop right out. the haynes manual says with a large vice or press you can break the nylon but I don't know
the stock U-joints aren't held in by normal retaining clips, they inject nylon into a groove which holds them in. on here I read you use a torch to melt them out. it takes a while but once you melt all the nylon out the bearing caps pop right out. the haynes manual says with a large vice or press you can break the nylon but I don't know
Precision super-strength non-greasable u-joints should be great, if they have never been changed it would help if you use torch to melt the "inject nylon " A WORD of warning: be carefull while heating the nylon DO NOT be in line of sight of the u joint cap as the heat may cause the grease in the old joint may boil and cause pressure to blow the cap off ( have seen them go completely threw a tin wall) after melting the nylon press the the cap out with a press or c clamp or beat it out with two sockets ( one as A DRIVER AND ONE AS A RECEIVER )) after installing new joint use the retained clips which came with the new joint
Johnny
Johnny
once they got warm most of the bearing caps started rising out on their own and I just grabbed them with channel locks as my friend heated it
and I took a look at the super strength ones while I was there and they were greaseable also so I just went with the regular ones
and I took a look at the super strength ones while I was there and they were greaseable also so I just went with the regular ones
I've changed lots of these joints and NEVER heat them. A big vise, some sockets and a short bar to tap the joint and they come right out. The trick is to break one side loose then the other. Do not push the cap out, just break it loose and then reverse the sockets and break the other side. If you don't you'll bend the yoke. After both sides are loose, you can push them out without a problem.
A big vise is the best U-Joint tool there is. I have an eye hook in the rafter above my work bench, I tie the drive shaft up so I don't have to hold it while I work.
Al
A big vise is the best U-Joint tool there is. I have an eye hook in the rafter above my work bench, I tie the drive shaft up so I don't have to hold it while I work.
Al
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I just replaced mine with the precision super strength because I am rebuilding my 4l60 and that was the heavy duty joint the parts store sold. I paid the auto parts store 18 bucks for them to take them out because it had the original nylon injected joints because they have a machine shop. The nylon injected joints are a pain to get out. Putting the new ones in are super easy if you have a vise or a huge set of channel locks and use clips so if you ever have to replace them again it is super easy.
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From: Long Island, NY
<------ It's true, the SPL joints are 30% stronger than the greasable spicer joints.
The super precision may be neapco's re-boxed... if you got 1 post a pic and i'll tell you if they're re-boxed neapco's or china
The super precision may be neapco's re-boxed... if you got 1 post a pic and i'll tell you if they're re-boxed neapco's or china
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TECH Junkie
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From: Rapid City, SD
Well, I already have mine ordered, and I'm not needing anything super strong. I mean it's not a 4x4 or a high HP car. Should be in sometime in the next few days. I ordered the Precision Super Strength non-greasable ones.
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From: rosemount,mn/windsor locks,ct
what is the part number on the spicer front/rear ujoints and where can i purchase them?
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From: Long Island, NY
For the factory shaft they are 5-795
If you have a aftermarket shaft you could have 5-794 or 5-800 depending on how it was built for that series
They can be bought at your local driveline shop or your local big truck shop
If you have a aftermarket shaft you could have 5-794 or 5-800 depending on how it was built for that series
They can be bought at your local driveline shop or your local big truck shop
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I know this is an old thread but I registered for this forum just to reply to this message.
I have experience with the Super Strength U-joints. I thought they would be a perfect match for my '76 Blazer with a 4 speed and mildly built 350. It also has a 4" lift and 33's.
The first time one broke I was accelerating hard in 1st and it went at about 2800 RPM. It destroyed the T-case output yoke and the slip portion of the shaft. When I disassembled everything I noticed a centering tab missing on the T-case yoke and thought the U-joint had slipped out of position. I replaced the U-joint and yoke thinking everything would be okay this time.
The next time it happened I was entering an intersection and shifted from 2nd to 3rd under normal acceleration. I was going about 10 MPH and the shaft left the vehicle completely this time. The front joint broke the exact same way(broke off one race) and the rear joint split in half when the front of the shaft hit the pavement.
Both times the joints broke before I had 100 miles on them. I went to the parts store and got my money back for the joints and told the clerk what happened. He told me to submit a labor claim and I did for the total of the yoke and shaft I had purchased. I just received the check and won't be wasting my money on cheap parts store U-joints ever again.
I have experience with the Super Strength U-joints. I thought they would be a perfect match for my '76 Blazer with a 4 speed and mildly built 350. It also has a 4" lift and 33's.
The first time one broke I was accelerating hard in 1st and it went at about 2800 RPM. It destroyed the T-case output yoke and the slip portion of the shaft. When I disassembled everything I noticed a centering tab missing on the T-case yoke and thought the U-joint had slipped out of position. I replaced the U-joint and yoke thinking everything would be okay this time.
The next time it happened I was entering an intersection and shifted from 2nd to 3rd under normal acceleration. I was going about 10 MPH and the shaft left the vehicle completely this time. The front joint broke the exact same way(broke off one race) and the rear joint split in half when the front of the shaft hit the pavement.
Both times the joints broke before I had 100 miles on them. I went to the parts store and got my money back for the joints and told the clerk what happened. He told me to submit a labor claim and I did for the total of the yoke and shaft I had purchased. I just received the check and won't be wasting my money on cheap parts store U-joints ever again.
Last edited by Tazimafied; Jul 23, 2015 at 02:12 PM.
