Replacing U-Joint On Aluminum DS...
04-20-2011, 02:36 PM
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Replacing U-Joint On Aluminum DS... Is there any special way to replace the u-joint on an aluminum shaft? I usually use a balljoint installation/removal tool to do u-joints on steel shafts, but wasn't sure if I would hurt anything using my way.
Thanks
Thanks
04-21-2011, 02:31 AM
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I'll be changing it out this weekend if all goes well
04-21-2011, 03:44 AM
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You have to heat and heat to get all that **** out of there. If its properly done it will not bend the shaft. I have had to set it up in the press, put force on the joint then finish heating while under the load. When you hit the right spot (with heat) it will finally give way.
04-21-2011, 07:02 AM
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Heating any AL shaft will guarantee ruining it....
You need to press the oe joint out, and then use a AL style coated joint, or eventually your weld yoke will fail.
You need to press the oe joint out, and then use a AL style coated joint, or eventually your weld yoke will fail.
04-21-2011, 11:29 AM
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Here's what you need
1. Blow torch
2. Brass pin (or socket just a little smaller than the end of the u-joint
3. BFH (Big freakin hammer) http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
Take the torch and heat up the ends of the universal joint where it is pressed into the drive shaft. Concentrate on heating that part of the drive shaft and not the u-joint itself. After it gets heated up you will see plastic (or some form of it) coming out of a tiny hole in the drive shaft (kinda looks like popping a pimple http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif ) keep applying heat until all of this is out. Repeat for each end.
The next step is to make sure there are no clips on the inside part of the drive shaft holding the u-joint in (Our van had them, but my truck didn't) If they are there pop them off with a screwdriver.
Now you are ready to put your brass plug or socket on the end of the u-joint and drive it out. Once you get it started, it's pretty easy to do, once you get it through take off the cap(s) and you should be able to take it out.
Sometimes they can be frustrating, but just keep hammering. Be careful not to scar up the driveshaft where the u-joints are pressed into. Oh, and if you can't get them, better leave the job to someone who has a press.
>>> a word from the wise: be carefull while heating around the u joint as heat MAY cause the grease in the joint to expand and blow the u joint cap from joint , I have seen several caps blow complety threw a tin wall in shop, therefore DO NOT point the cap at yourself
been there - done that
Johnny
1. Blow torch
2. Brass pin (or socket just a little smaller than the end of the u-joint
3. BFH (Big freakin hammer) http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
Take the torch and heat up the ends of the universal joint where it is pressed into the drive shaft. Concentrate on heating that part of the drive shaft and not the u-joint itself. After it gets heated up you will see plastic (or some form of it) coming out of a tiny hole in the drive shaft (kinda looks like popping a pimple http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif ) keep applying heat until all of this is out. Repeat for each end.
The next step is to make sure there are no clips on the inside part of the drive shaft holding the u-joint in (Our van had them, but my truck didn't) If they are there pop them off with a screwdriver.
Now you are ready to put your brass plug or socket on the end of the u-joint and drive it out. Once you get it started, it's pretty easy to do, once you get it through take off the cap(s) and you should be able to take it out.
Sometimes they can be frustrating, but just keep hammering. Be careful not to scar up the driveshaft where the u-joints are pressed into. Oh, and if you can't get them, better leave the job to someone who has a press.
>>> a word from the wise: be carefull while heating around the u joint as heat MAY cause the grease in the joint to expand and blow the u joint cap from joint , I have seen several caps blow complety threw a tin wall in shop, therefore DO NOT point the cap at yourself
been there - done that
Johnny
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04-21-2011, 08:12 PM
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DO NOT LISTEN to anyone using a torch on AL weld yokes, the ears WILL MOVE.
If you do, start pricing a new one, you have been warned.
I fix these, well, dopey mistakes all day long.....
Use a press, and use the press correctly, or have your local driveline shop do it for you
If you do, start pricing a new one, you have been warned.
I fix these, well, dopey mistakes all day long.....
Use a press, and use the press correctly, or have your local driveline shop do it for you
04-21-2011, 08:16 PM
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As for the post about heating.... That is all WRONG, even in a steel shaft all you heat is the CAP, not the weld yoke or any part of it...
Even the steel shafts i fix these same DOPEY procedures all the time from people doing things wrong.
Even the steel shafts i fix these same DOPEY procedures all the time from people doing things wrong.
04-22-2011, 08:59 PM
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You can't use a steel cap un-coated joint for use in a AL weld yoke, electrolysis happens, and the weld yoke always loses. . ..
fact and i regularly explain this to customers when they walk in with ruined weld yokes because they went to napa and got a non AL joint for there AL shaft.
Usually i see more driveline shops that don't seem to follow this and or don't know.
04-23-2011, 02:51 AM
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Why is that, you don't like the truth, or you were never informed ?
You can't use a steel cap un-coated joint for use in a AL weld yoke, electrolysis happens, and the weld yoke always loses. . ..
fact and i regularly explain this to customers when they walk in with ruined weld yokes because they went to napa and got a non AL joint for there AL shaft.
Usually i see more driveline shops that don't seem to follow this and or don't know.
You can't use a steel cap un-coated joint for use in a AL weld yoke, electrolysis happens, and the weld yoke always loses. . ..
fact and i regularly explain this to customers when they walk in with ruined weld yokes because they went to napa and got a non AL joint for there AL shaft.
Usually i see more driveline shops that don't seem to follow this and or don't know.
What u joint do I need to get them? I have a precision 355 joint (8.8 rear axle) and the stock aluminum shaft.
And how long does it take for the electrolysis to ruin a shaft? A month, a year, 10 years??
I'll just do it the way I always do then, without a torch
BTW not to sound like a retard but what is a weld yoke???
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04-23-2011, 09:44 AM
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Weld yoke is the end of the shaft that holds the joint and is welded to the shaft tube.
As for how long it takes, on my own shaft it took 22k on a DD, that was just a little more than a year.
On race only cars (drag racing) that are used a decent amount at the track a year i found it took 5 years on my 1 car and 10 years on the other, could take less if you change the joints just because, and not because they actually need to be.
Watch using some china made joints, there machining quality is **** and they'll shave off .002 going in.....i have since refused installing china joints in anyone's shaft
As for cost of a shop doing it, every place is different and i can't say what i do others do, i add an addition $5 per joint to install.
That's for car/pu truck series stuff, 1310 thru 1410.
As for how long it takes, on my own shaft it took 22k on a DD, that was just a little more than a year.
On race only cars (drag racing) that are used a decent amount at the track a year i found it took 5 years on my 1 car and 10 years on the other, could take less if you change the joints just because, and not because they actually need to be.
Watch using some china made joints, there machining quality is **** and they'll shave off .002 going in.....i have since refused installing china joints in anyone's shaft
As for cost of a shop doing it, every place is different and i can't say what i do others do, i add an addition $5 per joint to install.
That's for car/pu truck series stuff, 1310 thru 1410.
04-23-2011, 10:14 AM
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Weld yoke is the end of the shaft that holds the joint and is welded to the shaft tube.
As for how long it takes, on my own shaft it took 22k on a DD, that was just a little more than a year.
On race only cars (drag racing) that are used a decent amount at the track a year i found it took 5 years on my 1 car and 10 years on the other, could take less if you change the joints just because, and not because they actually need to be.
Watch using some china made joints, there machining quality is **** and they'll shave off .002 going in.....i have since refused installing china joints in anyone's shaft
As for cost of a shop doing it, every place is different and i can't say what i do others do, i add an addition $5 per joint to install.
That's for car/pu truck series stuff, 1310 thru 1410.
As for how long it takes, on my own shaft it took 22k on a DD, that was just a little more than a year.
On race only cars (drag racing) that are used a decent amount at the track a year i found it took 5 years on my 1 car and 10 years on the other, could take less if you change the joints just because, and not because they actually need to be.
Watch using some china made joints, there machining quality is **** and they'll shave off .002 going in.....i have since refused installing china joints in anyone's shaft
As for cost of a shop doing it, every place is different and i can't say what i do others do, i add an addition $5 per joint to install.
That's for car/pu truck series stuff, 1310 thru 1410.
My car is not a drag car, and isn't a DD either. The past 3 years I've gotten about 5k miles on it
I plan on driving it more, but not 20k miles a summer.So what about the Precision u joints? I have to use an adapting joint, and have heard good things about the Precision brand.