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9 inch Questions - What did you wish you had done?

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Old 09-19-2011, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
I ended up welding the bracket back on and I welded the others while I was at it. I then decided to go long arm because I believed it would be quieter, which it is. IMO, these stamped metal brackets should be welded if one is to run the short TA especially if racing.
Great, thanks for the tip man!
Old 09-19-2011, 10:52 AM
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Another vote for Midwest
Old 09-19-2011, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
aluminum bolt through center section, I had one and wouldnt even consider another without it. Get plugs and tie downs. IMHO I would just do a M9 case over a regular one too, they are much lighter
The M9 is a great way to go, here is a link to it.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm Bob
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:50 PM
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I don't want to get 80% of the info I need - I want tech support that will actually assist me AFTER my check has cleared.
This is why we prefer to talk and get a feel for what our customers are building that way we can get you into what you need and help you understand what you are getting. That and we are well known for helping our customers long after the sale, it also helps that we also race the items we sell also so you are getting first hand info.

I don't want compatablility issues with my UMI suspension parts.
Besides our torque arm everything else works with our rear ends. We eliminate the stock style torque arm for many reasons though.

As you can see though from LPE 403 pictures ours bolt in just like the 10-bolt came out. We supply all the things needed to make the instal easy as possible. That stems from the fact we instal these ourselves and understand what it takes to put these in and we want to simplify things as much as possible.
Old 09-21-2011, 09:07 PM
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I got the M9/torque arm package from Bob (2 posts up). It all went on nice and easy. The only modification we had to do was to panhard bar bracket. Which was no big deal. Just had to be cut, tweaked out a little then welded up (about an inch)
Attached Thumbnails 9 inch Questions - What did you wish you had done?-img-20110630-00154.jpg   9 inch Questions - What did you wish you had done?-img-20110630-00155.jpg  
Old 09-22-2011, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by great421
All -

My (5th) 10-bolt has begun making noise - but, it has lasted for almost 3 years behind my M6 turbocharged LT1/4, so I really cannot complain.

However, now that I've decided to 'bite the bullet' and buy a 9 inch, I want to avoid those mistakes others have made when trying to 'save a little money', or due to the fact that they didn't know how critical a particular item would be for a 9 inch rearend.

So, for those who have already purchaed a 9 inch, what (if anything) would you do differently?
Maybe going with a Detroit Locker instead of the billet clutch posi, going with the aluminum driveshaft, link setup that attaches to the floorpan but still pretty content with the choices I made.
Did everything bolt together properly, or was some 'modification' required in order to make it fit / work?
No, not really everything went together fairly smooth. Hardest part was getting the center section lined up on the studs.
Who did you buy from? Did they provide support or did they disappear after your check cleared? (In other words, who should I use and who should I avoid?)
Midwest Chassis. It took a lil longer than I expected to get everything but if I ever had any questions they gladly answered them. Great products & easy to deal with.
What 'options' did you purchase, and which one did you wish you had purchased? (Wavetrack?, 35 Splines?, Backbrace?, extra fill and drain ports?)
Nodular case, 31 spline, billet posi, backbrace, powdercoat, long arm, driveshaft loop, 4.11s 4 channel ABS, PST steel driveshaft.
Can a 9 inch be spec'd out with enough aluminum so that it is not heavier than a 10 bolt?

Can you still get "Mikronited" Ring and Pinion gears for a 9 inch?

Is a new / longer driveshaft required?
You could actually get away with using the stock driveshaft but it would be very foolish to not upgrade it if youre making the kind of power to need a 9 inch.
(I know - alot of questions, but I only want to buy ONE 9 inch rearend for this car, and I really don't know who to ask other than those members who have already spent their money.)

Thanks in advance!


Originally Posted by HoLLo
I just finished my 9" install yesterday. I'll go ahead and say pay the extra for the drain and fill plugs. I got a drain plug but not a fill port and its a huge pain in the *** filling it from the center section..
The drain plug comes standard, extra fill is another $30. IMO the extra fill plug would be a PITA to get to & the one in the center section is very easy to fill with a quart gear lube bottle, through the gap in the torque arm.
Old 09-23-2011, 10:40 AM
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The best way I found to get to the upper fill plug is by jacking the car up then setting jack stands at the sub frame conectors. Then lowering the rear itself back down with the jack. Which gets the hole a little lower. Then the QT bottle works fine to fill it.
Old 09-23-2011, 06:34 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys - it looks like it will be at least another 30 days before I've saved the required $$$ to pull the trigger.
Old 09-24-2011, 08:51 AM
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How many of you have the short tq vs the long one? I ordered the short, but thinking I may have made a mistake. Input greatly appreciated.
Old 09-24-2011, 09:33 AM
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I ordered the short tq arm. Better for launching and planting tires for my level of HP. Makes more noise than the long arm though. Once I step up to big HP levels I will trade this one out for their long arm.
Old 09-24-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
I ordered the short tq arm. Better for launching and planting tires for my level of HP. Makes more noise than the long arm though. Once I step up to big HP levels I will trade this one out for their long arm.
I had a UMI short arm before & it loved the track but hated the street. Like was said, great for launching & it might be noisier but you lose ground clearance with it & I was constantly scraping the crossmember. This is why I went with the long arm this time around.
Old 09-26-2011, 01:17 PM
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I had a couple PM's and want to address something. flintwrench69 was not talking about ground clearance issues with our short arm cross member. How ours is designed we just do not run into any complaints. Now our double drop hangs down low but that is because it is set up to fit big inch exhaust and it has no other way to make the room.
Old 09-26-2011, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
I had a couple PM's and want to address something. flintwrench69 was not talking about ground clearance issues with our short arm cross member. How ours is designed we just do not run into any complaints. Now our double drop hangs down low but that is because it is set up to fit big inch exhaust and it has no other way to make the room.
My experiences were with the UMI short arm, & crossmember for non-Kooks LT setups. Wouldnt the crossmember have to go under the exhaust? Its the only way I can see it working on mine & I just have LTs & a GMMG. If so, theres gonna be some loss of ground clearance in that spot. I know we had this conversation when I placed my order from you. I would like to see some pics of the crossmember. My car is lowered some too so thats another factor.
Old 09-27-2011, 09:54 AM
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Our double drop does come down more so than our normal C/B and our true dual set up is not an issue at all. We have not had any comments of ground clearance with our C/B. All though an extremely low vehicle anything is possible.

I will try to go through our pictures of customer vehicles and see what I can dig up for pics.
Old 09-27-2011, 10:27 AM
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Here is a good picture of our short arm with our typical C/B cross member.
Old 09-27-2011, 03:13 PM
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wait... kinda confussed here so do u sell the fab 9" with a short torque arm also? or is the long one u only do for that housing?
Old 09-27-2011, 03:56 PM
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Yes we offer a long arm or a short arm version with the MWC 9".

Here is a picture of our long arm set up. This customer also got our Watts link, true SFC, Drive shaft loop, & LCA shipped to their door assembled ready to bolt in.

Old 09-27-2011, 06:25 PM
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Here is a picture of the Moser M9's rear that includes an awesome Chrome Moly Torque Arm and Chrome Moly Transmission Crossmember.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm Link to this rear (and more pic's), which is shipped out two days after the order is placed. Bob
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
Here is a good picture of our short arm with our typical C/B cross member.
Hey thats my car.
The short arm cross member has decent clearance for a standard height car like mine. A dropped car might hit here and there. This crossmember also actually sits a tad lower than the drive side LPP header collector.

The short arm cross member I had, which was likely a much older design, was not friendly to TD exhaust. I had to re-engineer the loop mounts to make it work. Even then it is very tight in there with 2.5" parts but it can work if the pipes are held in place well. I think MWC is now using different mounts for the loop on the short arm mount.

I now have the long arm and mount and it has much better clearance than the short arm and mount. I went with the long arm for the benefit of lesser "normal" road noise plus I did not like bolting the crossmember to those stamped mounts on the bottom of the chassis considering I busted one loose from just normal driving. FTR, I dont race the car.
Old 09-27-2011, 08:13 PM
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really not worried about ground clearance. the car is mainly a strip car but i have to be able to drive it to the strip so noise i could care less. i have a umi short arm right now so im kinda just wanting to go the same route.



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