8.8 build question.
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From: Olive Branch, MS
8.8 build question. Is there a 8.8 rear that is too wide for an F body. The idea is to cut the axle tubes down to fit and weld 9" ends on it to get rid of the C-clips. I dont want to add length to the axle tubes. Cost + time = not worth it to me. Or is it???
What vehicle rear should I be looking for to be able to do this?
I searched but it seems everyone is adding length.
What vehicle rear should I be looking for to be able to do this?
I searched but it seems everyone is adding length.
Crown vics had the longest 8.8 housing but only come with 28 spline diffs. Sounds like you're going to be going through it completely so this makes no difference
Any particular reason to ditch C-clip style axles?
IMHO, grab whatever 8.8 you can get your hands on, cut the tubes and slide 10 bolt tubes in. Most likely you'll be keeping disk brakes which act as axle retention, so unless you're specifically racing in a class that requires c-clip eliminators, the extra cost and constant leaking is to no benefit
Any particular reason to ditch C-clip style axles?
IMHO, grab whatever 8.8 you can get your hands on, cut the tubes and slide 10 bolt tubes in. Most likely you'll be keeping disk brakes which act as axle retention, so unless you're specifically racing in a class that requires c-clip eliminators, the extra cost and constant leaking is to no benefit
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I have seen many axles come right out of rears that use C clips. I wouldnt mind daily driving one but for racing, I want bolt in axles.
Can you explain to me how a C clip is stronger than 4 bolts?
Can you explain to me how a C clip is stronger than 4 bolts?
I've seen them fly out on a circle track... But never a dragstrip. The dirt track ones are scary when the wheel is still attached and its doing summersaults in the air and the axle sticks in the track with a pack of cars going past it.
Ive seen them come out in lots of places, but always when the driver was pushing the axle beyond its limits and more importantly, drum brakes
Disk brakes are positive axle retention already, but you're set on the ends, so go ahead
Disk brakes are positive axle retention already, but you're set on the ends, so go ahead
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Saftey is a big deal. If C clips were so awesome then the aftermarket companies would sell C clips as an upgrade. Instead they sell the bolt in kits. The reason for this is that they are flat out safer. I dont want to rely on a C clip. I want my stuff bolted together not held on by a thin piece of metal, disc brakes or not.
Not here to argue about C clips. It is already proven that bolt in are stronger. Period. If it works for you, great. It wont work for me.
Anyone with lenghth info, im listening. Im really trying to find this info.
Not here to argue about C clips. It is already proven that bolt in are stronger. Period. If it works for you, great. It wont work for me.
Anyone with lenghth info, im listening. Im really trying to find this info.
I hear ya man, **** C-clips. And I have seen them break at the strip plenty. Let alone the extra wear on the outer brake pads. And if your C-clips are wore you are compressing the caliper pistons, less effective rear brake's. I am using a Crown Vic rear for my 8.8 build. They are 9/10's of an inch shoter on each side. Only thing is the axle tube necks down quite a bit at the tube end where it is mated to the brake bracket flange. I am going to cut off the ends before the taper and just have some sleeve's machined up to slip over the end's of the 8.8 tube. Then I will bring it back to stock width or maybe a touch shorter. I run BMW offset wheels and wouldn't mind sucking the rears in a half inch or so. Also, I am going to run Brembo fixed calipers in the rear, fixed caliper and C-clips is a big no no.
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I hear ya man, **** C-clips. And I have seen them break at the strip plenty. Let alone the extra wear on the outer brake pads. And if your C-clips are wore you are compressing the caliper pistons, less effective rear brake's. I am using a Crown Vic rear for my 8.8 build. They are 9/10's of an inch shoter on each side. Only thing is the axle tube necks down quite a bit at the tube end where it is mated to the brake bracket flange. I am going to cut off the ends before the taper and just have some sleeve's machined up to slip over the end's of the 8.8 tube. Then I will bring it back to stock width or maybe a touch shorter. I run BMW offset wheels and wouldn't mind sucking the rears in a half inch or so. Also, I am going to run Brembo fixed calipers in the rear, fixed caliper and C-clips is a big no no.
Also, I was looking at NHRA rules and C-clips are out the window when youre running a spool. Prolly because they are so strong and safe.......
It necks down? How will this hurt me for racing if its at the end? 9/10's of an inch isnt that much. How would a stock wheel fit with this difference?
Also, I was looking at NHRA rules and C-clips are out the window when youre running a spool. Prolly because they are so strong and safe.......
Also, I was looking at NHRA rules and C-clips are out the window when youre running a spool. Prolly because they are so strong and safe.......
I'm currently doing my 8.8 build with an explorer rear. 31spline axles and a TrackLok rear. I followed another members build and used Stranges GM housing ends to eliminate C Clips. Brake backing plate actually acts as the bearing retainer. The big thing to keep in mind is how you're going to do your torque arm mount as the center section is ductile iron and not very easy to weld to. I'll have lots of pics available this weekend.
Also, I lopped the axle tubes off about 10 inches out on each side and pushed bare axle tubes in, screw machining a sleeve for 10bolt tubes. Much cleaner this way.
I'm sorry, but if you're building a rear end for yourself, then why cheap out? There's no excuse to Fab up a good looking housing, then ruin it by not getting quality axles. Figure it like this.
Explorer 8.8 rear: $100
Trak Loc Cobra rebuild kit - $100
FRP Ring and Pinion - $125
Axle Tubes - $40
Strange Engineering housing ends - $80
Strange Engineering 31 spline Alloy Axles and bearing package - $379
Torque Arm Mount - $50 from a member on here, and the strongest one I've seen.
Girdle Cover $125
All Suspension related brackets - Free from my 10 bolt.
Grand total: $950, you cant beat that.
A little time with a welder, and I have an absolutely bulletproof rear. And you're only spending an extra $80 to ditch the c-clips, so why wouldn't you? I'm sorry, but if I'm building something, I'm building it right. Cheap is good, but bad quality is not acceptable. Especially when I'm running an LQ9 with a 350 shot on the motor through a Stage 2 T56. You say pressing in some 10 bolt tubes is "repeatable", but I don't want to build mine more than once. You guys can rinse lather and repeat all you want.
And think about it, go take a peak at any of the rears that Moser, Currie, and Strange sell for the f-body. You'll notice one thing, they don't come with c-clip axles.....that isn't by mistake.....just sayin.
05+ have 31 spline stuff, and they are also about 1.5" wider from 03+ when they did major suspension changes and changed the offset of the wheels.
Last edited by CameronVic; Feb 8, 2012 at 11:59 PM.