Daughter's 2001 Chevy Camaro T-Boned
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i have a complete set of stock lower control arms, and that panhard bar that goes across the rear, id sell for cheap. 50 bucks + shipping. i will also throw in a rear sway bar, bolts, and mounts.
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From what I can gather from looking at the RPO codes it looks like it's just the open, there wasn't the G80 code, just the GU6. Would this make a difference as far as damage to the diff?
Thank you,
Thank you,
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but the rear end gear could be different in the one you buy,a4 rear ends could be 2.73 to 3.23 & m6 cars 3.42 geared from the factory.
also could be a posi diff in the v8 rear ends.
i am guessing that you have 2.73 gear in your car?
i am not sure but i think 93-97 might be direct bolt in too .?.?
then you have 3 channel or 4 channel,and right now i cant remember how that works.......duh.
3 channel abs,4 channel traction control????????
these guys on here are well edjucated & always willing to help,so if i got something wrong here.....please chime in.i have been dealing with 9" lately & some of this 10 bolt stuff is evading my memory banks..........
sometimes i forget more than i think i know,its hell gettin old.lol.
i have a couple daughters too and been through what your going through......
good luck!
Last edited by heymoej; 04-01-2012 at 04:30 PM.
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Stick with your body style for a rear end replacement. Brakes are different for 93-97 and 98-02. v6 rears will typically have open diffs while all V8s are posi-trac units. A v8/m6 car would have a 3.42 and a posi-trac. That's what I would look for if I had to replace it. If you change gear ratios you will have to fool with a speedo re-calibration. Since I'm sure v6s did not have traction control you should have a 3 channel rear with one speed sensor located on the center section, on top, just slightly towards the driver side. That will 100% confirm a 3 channel rear. I would source another 3 channel so its a direct bolt in. Its a shame bc I just threw one away, I would have been happy to give it away.
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That repair is going to be expensive and hard to get straight and may never be the same. You might consider walking away to be honest. My gf (female drivers
) had a much less drastic impact (didn't push the suspension/rear or damage the door/door jam) and it was still almost $3k after frame work, a new quarter, paint, etc. It drives fine but we both noticed right away that it was way noisier than before and the car smelled like weld for a month, lol.
With what you have with door damage plus the door jam plus the suspension and rearend damage, I wouldn't even attempt to repair it unless you have the utmost faith in the repair shop. It may look fixed but may never drive the same again.
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With what you have with door damage plus the door jam plus the suspension and rearend damage, I wouldn't even attempt to repair it unless you have the utmost faith in the repair shop. It may look fixed but may never drive the same again.
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Thank you SStolen. I understand what you're saying but she paid $4K for this car and only had liability on it. Believe me, I tried to talk her out of buying this but daughters are daughters.