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I have to agree with 96lt4c4. I had a set of wheels that had the wrong size center and used the lugs to center the wheel. I never did get rid of the horrible vibration. Installed a set of hub centric rings and cured it. But having rings machined is not a cheap endeavor. Get the right wheels the first time. I decided not to buy the rings and went with new wheels instead.
hmm this is all new to me, i have racestar industries drag wheels and i have a vibration, and i know the lugs center the wheel but i also had a vibration when i was running the stock chrome slp wheels so i'm thinking it could be something else
I know this is an old thread but I am having the same issue with my Firehawk. Moser says the lugnuts should center the wheel. I am sure this works a good portion of the time but it isn't working for me. Moser is all knowing and they are pretty much no help. I removed my brake rotors and bolted my racestars right to the axles so the the hub centers the wheel and they run straight and true. From what I have read Strange is the same way. Has anyone welded up there hubs and cut them to the proper diameter?
I know this is an old thread but I am having the same issue with my Firehawk. Moser says the lugnuts should center the wheel. I am sure this works a good portion of the time but it isn't working for me. Moser is all knowing and they are pretty much no help. I removed my brake rotors and bolted my racestars right to the axles so the the hub centers the wheel and they run straight and true. From what I have read Strange is the same way. Has anyone welded up there hubs and cut them to the proper diameter?
I ended up getting a custom set of hub adapters from http://motorsport-tech.com/. After I added the adapters the rims now run true (stock rims), and 80% of the vibrations are gone (the rest I attribute to a solid MWC rear setup). It wasn't cheap, as I paid $125 for the adapters.
Here's what I ordered, but if you go this route, you MUST measure your hub as they are probably all different in size: 2 Hub & Wheel Centric 3mm Thick, 5x4.75 68.91 to 70.51 (.620"Tall).
The .620 tall measurement was to extend the hub flange into the rim. The stock axle hub is .5" into the rim, so I wanted to keep it to stock specs. 3mm is thinnest motorsport-tech.com would go. If you have stock length studs, you might want to invest in a little longer ARP studs.
The Strange axles we use have a long register now that centers the oem rotor and extends into the wheel properly. Most aftermarket wheels have a larger ID in that area and most likely will not fit true to the axle register like this.
The Strange axles we use have a long register now that centers the oem rotor and extends into the wheel properly. Most aftermarket wheels have a larger ID in that area and most likely will not fit true to the axle register like this.
That is how my Race Star drag pack is built but they came with hub adapters. I realize it works out most of the time with the lugs but the hub centric design is way better IMO. It's good to know Strange made this change. I am sure it won't cause as much heartburn as it not being extended.
good to hear , then ill be fine with my ws6 rims then .
So this was an issue with too short of a "register" on the axle ??
Yeah, the vibrations sucked and I complained about it as soon as I left MWC.
You can test your car without even driving it. Just lift the rear of the car (keep the suspension loaded), start it up, put it in gear, and let it run at idle. Watch the lip on your rims and see if wobbles.
This is how much hub my axles have; if you want to call it a hub lol.
I get a shudder when the car goes down hill, just thought it was the 9in, I also battled the vibration in 5/6. The tranny shop swore that there was nothing wrong with the shaft and f#cked around with the car for way too long until I insisted that they replace the shaft. I've since quit doing fifth and sixth gear pulls.
Yeah, the vibrations sucked and I complained about it as soon as I left MWC.
You can test your car without even driving it. Just lift the rear of the car (keep the suspension loaded), start it up, put it in gear, and let it run at idle. Watch the lip on your rims and see if wobbles.
This is how much hub my axles have; if you want to call it a hub lol.
JB your rearend was very early in production, and it has Moser axles in it. We had some issues and switched to Strange as soon as they made their axles long enough for the stock width f-body dimensions and have had little of no issues since.
JB your rearend was very early in production, and it has Moser axles in it. We had some issues and switched to Strange as soon as they made their axles long enough for the stock width f-body dimensions and have had little of no issues since.
I want to add my experience with differential vibrations. I switched from a Torsen carrier to a Auburn carrier, instant drone vibration from THE CHEAP UNBALANCED Auburn carrier. Yanked it back out and put the torsen bk in....smooth as silk...........
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