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New moser 9" whine

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Old 09-05-2013, 01:43 PM
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I wouldn't weld on the hub of your axles. You'll end up undoing any heat treat process that was performed at the factory and/or causing embrittlement.

Get on ebay or call tire rack. They make hubcentric rings that do exactly what you're trying to accomplish.

I tried to pry away any contacting sheet metal on my car but it can only move so far. Beyond that, it's like it needs to be hammered on.

I seem to have a high speed vibration, at like 110mph+. I assume its pinion/driveshaft angle being out. Does the car need to physically be level to set this all up or can it be done on a non level driveway and jack stands?
Old 09-06-2013, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Flubyux2
I wouldn't weld on the hub of your axles. You'll end up undoing any heat treat process that was performed at the factory and/or causing embrittlement.

Get on ebay or call tire rack. They make hubcentric rings that do exactly what you're trying to accomplish.

I tried to pry away any contacting sheet metal on my car but it can only move so far. Beyond that, it's like it needs to be hammered on.

I seem to have a high speed vibration, at like 110mph+. I assume its pinion/driveshaft angle being out. Does the car need to physically be level to set this all up or can it be done on a non level driveway and jack stands?
The heat treatment is really only needed at the spline, What we ended up doing was machining the center on the the axle smaller, we machined a new center to go over it. We heated the new center up and stuck it on the axle. Them mig welded it around the inside. When it cooled off we machined it all back down to size, we actually made the wheel fit the axle a little tighter.

I really should start a new thread about these Moser axles. Those guys have issues. The first pair I ordered, one of them was an inch too short. They sent me another axle. Them when we put them in a lathe they had all kinds of run out. The wheel flange/face of one of my new axles had .025 run out. We had to skim cut the face on both axles to make them run straight. Its no wonder guys complain about vibrations when driving on the street.

I ran my car on jack stands and now my wheels finally run true and straight with no vibrations, 100 + MPH, If I could get rid of gear noise it would be all good.
Old 11-26-2013, 05:35 PM
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What I finally ended up doing is getting some second skin under carpet deadoning material and a tunnel sheild, made the car sound almost new again
Old 11-26-2013, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
The heat treatment is really only needed at the spline, What we ended up doing was machining the center on the the axle smaller, we machined a new center to go over it. We heated the new center up and stuck it on the axle. Them mig welded it around the inside. When it cooled off we machined it all back down to size, we actually made the wheel fit the axle a little tighter.

I really should start a new thread about these Moser axles. Those guys have issues. The first pair I ordered, one of them was an inch too short. They sent me another axle. Them when we put them in a lathe they had all kinds of run out. The wheel flange/face of one of my new axles had .025 run out. We had to skim cut the face on both axles to make them run straight. Its no wonder guys complain about vibrations when driving on the street.

I ran my car on jack stands and now my wheels finally run true and straight with no vibrations, 100 + MPH, If I could get rid of gear noise it would be all good.
I am really glad I read this because I was really considering pulling the trigger on a moser rear end. An m9 to be exact. This sounds like a headache.
Old 11-27-2013, 12:18 AM
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Interesting read........
Old 12-01-2013, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Randolph Ziskey
I am really glad I read this because I was really considering pulling the trigger on a moser rear end. An m9 to be exact. This sounds like a headache.
It is not the norm, as I have sold over a million dollars worth of Moser rears over the years, and I've had very few problems with them. Many racers use Moser axles, and they certainly couldn't run axles that weren't true. Bob
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:27 PM
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Bob left you a message thanks.
Old 12-02-2013, 01:18 PM
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I also got my Moser with Wavetrac from Bob and it I didnt have the whining issues. I do believe that my driver side shaft is slightly bent though. Ater about 500 miles, I could hear a sound coming from it but it didnt sound like gear whine. Put it up on jackstands and ran it in 1st gear at idle and could see a slight deflection at the wheel lip. This caused the first set of bearings that were in it to destroy their seals and had to replace them. Also, this past year, the driver axle seal went out on me and I had oil gunk built up all over my wheel and brake on the driver side. I think all of this is due to that shaft. I will throw a new set in this winter and see if it fixed it.
Old 12-02-2013, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Randolph Ziskey
Bob left you a message thanks.
Didn't get a call back....
Old 12-03-2013, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Randolph Ziskey
Didn't get a call back....
I'm sorry, I was swamped yesterday. I'll give you a call today. Thanks! Bob
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackLS1Bird
I also got my Moser with Wavetrac from Bob and it I didnt have the whining issues. I do believe that my driver side shaft is slightly bent though. Ater about 500 miles, I could hear a sound coming from it but it didnt sound like gear whine. Put it up on jackstands and ran it in 1st gear at idle and could see a slight deflection at the wheel lip. This caused the first set of bearings that were in it to destroy their seals and had to replace them. Also, this past year, the driver axle seal went out on me and I had oil gunk built up all over my wheel and brake on the driver side. I think all of this is due to that shaft. I will throw a new set in this winter and see if it fixed it.
Pull the driver side wheel and tire off and with the rear up on jack stands, run the car at idle and see if the axle is running true or not. This way you isolate the wheel to see if it is the axle that is bent or not. Let me know what you find. Thanks. Bob
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
The heat treatment is really only needed at the spline, What we ended up doing was machining the center on the the axle smaller, we machined a new center to go over it. We heated the new center up and stuck it on the axle. Them mig welded it around the inside. When it cooled off we machined it all back down to size, we actually made the wheel fit the axle a little tighter.

I really should start a new thread about these Moser axles. Those guys have issues. The first pair I ordered, one of them was an inch too short. They sent me another axle. Them when we put them in a lathe they had all kinds of run out. The wheel flange/face of one of my new axles had .025 run out. We had to skim cut the face on both axles to make them run straight. Its no wonder guys complain about vibrations when driving on the street.

I ran my car on jack stands and now my wheels finally run true and straight with no vibrations, 100 + MPH, If I could get rid of gear noise it would be all good.
They shouldn't be only hardened on the spline. They should be induction hardened everywhere but the flange. A customer of mine made axles for Moser some years ago and this was the norm.
Old 12-03-2013, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob@BruteSpeed
It is not the norm, as I have sold over a million dollars worth of Moser rears over the years, and I've had very few problems with them. Many racers use Moser axles, and they certainly couldn't run axles that weren't true. Bob

I am just telling my experiences with them. I had problems a couple years ago when I first built my 9 inch, with the axles not running straight. Wheels wobbled. Fast forward to now, reordered axles with tapered roller bearings, take side load better, the first pair they sent me one was an inch too short. I called, they sent me an axle the correct length, my measurements were correct. Put the pair of axles in the lathe and the both had run out on the flange where the wheel bolts. It may not matter on a car with 15 inch wheels a slicks because the soft side walls, but on a street car with 17 inch street tires its a problem. As far as the eccentric not sicking out far enough, I am sure the little bit of welding we did on the flange side did not hurt the axle.

Here is the video I made a couple years ago that proves they were not straight. Maybe they harden them after the machining is done and it warps them some I dont know...

We didnt check the face of the flange on these. The ones I have now do run straight both ways, after we fixed them.


Last edited by 96lt4c4; 12-03-2013 at 11:00 AM.
Old 12-03-2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
I have no reason to lie, I am just telling my experiences with them. I had problems a couple years ago when I first built my 9 inch, with the axles not running straight. Wheels wobbled. Fast forward to now, reordered axles with tapered roller bearings, take side load better, the first pair they sent me one was an inch too short. I called, they sent me an axle the correct length, my measurements were correct. Put the pair of axles in the lathe and the both had run out on the flange where the wheel bolts. It may not matter on a car with 15 inch wheels a slicks because the soft side walls, but on a street car with 17 inch street tires its a problem. As far as the eccentric not sicking out far enough, I am sure the little bit of welding we did on the flange side did not hurt the axle.

Here is the video I made a couple years ago that proves they were not straight. Maybe they harden them after the machining is done and it warps them some I dont know...

We didnt check the face of the flange on these. The ones I have now do run straight both ways, after we fixed them.

Check your Moser axles - YouTube
I'm sorry, I certainly didn't mean to imply that you lied. All that I am saying is that it is not the norm. Perhaps they had a problem at the time that has been rectified. Thanks. Bob
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Randolph Ziskey
Didn't get a call back....
I just checked my voice mail messages and for some reason I don't have one for you. Could you give me a call or pm me your phone number? Thanks. Bob
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:35 PM
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Check your pinion angle if u have an adjustable torque arm, a bad or severe pinion angle will cause some of the whine and vibration...also if your torque arm is solidly mounted to the trans tunnel or a crossmember it will be louder than stock....had the same issues with my buddys moser 12-bolt and a moser 9in...both awesome rearends for strength and dependability



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