s7ven

Thanks in advance for any help

So straight to the point, I'm going to buy a new rearend within the next 6 months. I'm looking at the MWC fab 9" but all the different options confuse me. My ultimate max rwhp is going to be in the 600-700 range so I want to buy something that will hold up to that much power. This car is about 98% street and maybe 2% strip, the suspension is currently set up to corner with koni shocks, strano springs, and strano sway bars. Budget is not a major concern but I do not want to waste $$$ on options I do not need. Also, the car is an M6.

In the short-term the car will only make 400-500rwhp so if I can skip some options until later then that is fine with me...

So help me choose the right rearend options...this is what I've picked out so far:


Base - $2,850.00
Housing backbrace - $150.00
Tow loops - $50.00 - I may not need this but not much $$ here
Completely assembled - $150.00
Black powder coating - $130.00
ABS - $185.00 - I don't know what channel I have?
Truetrac diff - $300.00
MWC chromoly adjustable lca's - $185.00 - Stock LCAs currently

Total - $4,000.00

Also...just a few things I'm unclear on

• How do I figure out how many channels my ABS has?
• I've got Kooks TD, do I need a specific torque arm setup?
• Should I also go for a new DS with the required yokes and joints?
• I'd like to save $400, how hard are the brake caliper mounts to get off?
• 
  

I'm sure I'll have more questions but I'm thankful for any help I can get

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

I just started a posted similar to this maybe a week or two ago and you are going to have mixed reviews from a bunch of different members. If I were you id call a sponsor who deals with rearends daily who will know exactly what you are going to need. a tru trac most likely wont work for your power goals from what I understand too. also if you have traction control and abs you have a 4 channel rearend which most likely you do.

s7ven

Thanks for the info man. I'll send a message to MWC and see if I can get some answers.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

We will be glad to help you on selections of components... and rest assured your final product will be the best value for your dollar spent.

ABS 3 or 4 channel is as simple as if the car has traction control or not. 3ch system is abs only, 4ch system is abs and traction control. All traction control system cars will have a button on the dash or console to turn it off.

We do have a torque arm and crossmember specific to the duals exhaust system. Comes with a driveshaft loop installed as well.

A new driveshaft is always a good idea. If you have an A4 car you can maybe get by without(conversion u-joint required) for a while, but the general consensus is if you need a better rearend you need a better driveshaft. The stock shafts are weak at best. We offer complete new driveshafts that are custom built to your needs from PST and Strange. Best thing is you can sell off your current driveshaft and recoup that money toward the new one. All driveshafts will come as complete assembled units, balanced, and ready to install.


The brake parts required to complete the rearend are pretty easy to remove and reuse on the new rearend. The backing plates are bolted on and require the axles to be removed, but the process is not that hard.

If you or anyone else has questions pleas feel free to contact us. We have the best tech help available in the industry.

s7ven

Thanks for the quick and detailed response. I think I have 3 channel since I do not have a button for traction control. I had heard that before and was a little confused because there was a situation where I had accidentally down shifted to hard on an icy day which caused the rear tires to slip and the traction control light came on. Hence, I wasn't sure if I had it or not.

Anyway, thanks for the info. Regarding what was said in a previous post, would you recommend a different differential than true track considering my HP requirements?

Also would it be possible to get a quote via pm?

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

You pretty much have the same options that I have except for the last 3. I have a spool, no ABS and Madman LCAs and I am trying to go well past 700whp. The options you have listed should be more than enough to meet your goals. I would get a new driveshaft if you plan on hooking any of the power you are wanting to make. I have seen the stock driveshaft break on bolt on cars, but my brother didn't break his until after the 60' in his car with H/C/I and a th400. So it is on borrowed time after you start getting decent amounts of traction. I would also save the $400 and take off your factory backing plates. It took me about 30 minutes to pull the axles out of a spare 10 bolt I had and pull the backing plates off.

MWC makes a great product and I am very happy with mine.

s7ven

Do I need any special tools for taking off the backing plates? My only other concern is the diff... will the true trac hold up. Thanks for the info, I'm definitely ordering a driveshaft when I buy.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Backing plate removal only requires standard hand tools, maybe a pocket magnet to help retrieve the c-clip out of the diff unit. 13mm socket for the cover, 15mm socket for caliper bracket, 5/16 6pt wrench(I use a brake bleeder wrench) or 1/4 drive socket for pinion pin, 9/16 socket and wrench for backing plates. We do not need the e-brake shoe, adjuster, or lever/boot. Just the steel caliper bracket and the sheet metal dust shield is all.

Drain the oil with removing the cover, once the calipers, rotors, and pinion pin is out push the axle in toward the center and it will expose the c-clip. Once the c-clip is out the axle will slid out and then the backing plates can be removed at that point.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

I have a Moser 9" that I will be looking to sell soon. Haven't posted it up yet. Nodular case with 3 channel ABS, aluminum pinion support, 3.55 gears, wavetrac, 35 spline axles, 1/2"x3" studs, backbraced, LCA relocation brackets, oversized fill plug with billet cap. Also have a PST 3.5" aluminum driveshaft that is the correct length for 9" in F-Body. DS has a 31 spline slip yoke. I also have a 26 spline if your tranny has a stock output shaft. The rear has the brackets for the BMR Extreme rear sway bar with the adjustable links, therefore, I would like the bar to go with it as well. Approximately 2,000 miles on it. Bob at Brute Speed put this package together for me back in the summer of 2011. He can tell you this thing is a beast. You wont break it.

If interested, PM me for a price.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

And my 9" already has the backing plates mounted. Basically, just hook up your LCA's, shocks, torque arm, and driveshaft. Mount your brakes back up on the brackets and plug in your ABS connector. Complete bolt in setup.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Definitely a very stout package that's ready to bolt in for someone! Bob