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Quick Performance Fab 9" detailed photos inside........

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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mgood613
Yes, QP assembled
$1,379
Shipping $38.70

Total. $1,417.70
So that's a total of around $2500 for a complete rear then correct?
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 08:06 PM
  #22  
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Yes, that is correct
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 09:10 PM
  #23  
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I also got my qp fab9 a couple weeks ago 35spline wavetrac and also stripped out center bolts and had to redrill shock and pan hard holes. I hopefully have mine done within a couple weeks. otherwise so far so good. are you keeping 3 channel abs?
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 10:44 PM
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Ditching abs. I also have a local guy here who is an awesome 9" guy so getting a new nodular iron, all the most beefy stuff to handle 1000+ hard manual trans launches for $950.
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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 07:02 PM
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No ABS, I figured I don't drive it in the winter.
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 03:31 PM
  #26  
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What is your plan for a torque arm? Someone (might have been QP) said not to run an adjustable arm because their mounts are adjustable and you will end up breaking one or the other.
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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I have read that also, I have a non adjustable BMR.
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #28  
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Very nice. I've been planning on doing a 9 inch this summer and have been trying to figure out where to get it from, and how to get to my house the easiest/cheapest way. I didnt even realize these guys were almost in my back yard! Looks like I'll either be stopping down there or calling them pretty soon.
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 07:12 AM
  #29  
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Ill have install pictures soon guys. Dropped money off for my center section the other day.

New Nodular Iron case
Big Bearing Daytona pinion support
Full Spool
3:18 Gear
Chromoly big bearing caps


Also I ordered LCAs from Midwest Chassis. I should have all within the week and Ill post install pictures up. I am going with the high gear become since this thread was started I have sold all my 6speed stuff and going auto. Also pulled the engine out and all. Starting from scratch to build the car the way I want.
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Old May 10, 2014 | 06:12 AM
  #30  
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Third member,

Nodular Iron Case
3:18 Gear
Chromoly bearing caps
Daytona Pinion support
35 Spline Drag Spool
1350 Billet yoke





Got the back bracing put on.


Also got ARP third member studs because the ones they sent are very weak and cheap looking.



Studs in



Third member in ready for axles.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 07:47 AM
  #31  
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Got the housing painted and started removing my stock 10 bolt which I broke the axle in. One picture shows the comparison between a stock axle vs a moser 35 spline.







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Old May 13, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Nice! If that housing sat in my shop for 6 weeks w/o paint, it would have ended up a pile of rust...
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:19 AM
  #33  
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Got the rear installed last night. Rotors drilled out. Nothing adjusted or tight yet but its all in there. Even test fitted my wheels with the 5/8 studs. Race Stars will fit with 5/8 studs. Rear will have to be repainted in spots as well as a anti roll bar installed later on. Still gotta put my calipers on and brake lines.





Stock rotor vs drilled






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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #34  
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that side to side movement in the TA rod ends, with that mount will be a problem. even with the dummy soild one piece rod ends
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
that side to side movement in the TA rod ends, with that mount will be a problem. even with the dummy soild one piece rod ends
The rod ends on the rear have no side to side movement when tighten. I may install a support to eliminate possibly of side to side movement.

Now that I got the car sit down it looks like I installed a lift kit. Guess I'll be cutting the tunnel out for ta clearance when I do my cage.

Last edited by mrstepheneades; May 17, 2014 at 07:40 PM.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #36  
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Ride height back to normal now.



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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #37  
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So you had to cut that hole in the floor for clearance?
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 09:53 PM
  #38  
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I used a Big *** pry bar and relocated the floor. LOL
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